The impeller get spun by the exhaust gas pressure after combustion. Traces of fuel from incomplete combustion still reaches it. Some very minor amount of engine oil also can leak into it as the oil seal is something like a piston ring, not completely sealed off but good enough to stop major amounts of oil escaping.

The turbo in this civic is water cooled, meaning the water will circulate around the jacket housing of the "siput". So if water pump fail, hehehehe....

This is the most important thing to look through after getting your car back to your home.

Quite a lot of things to learn by reading the manual, instead of relying on inputs from the SC or forum members.

Go to a petrol station air pump station. You slot it in, the pump gauge will show what is the current tyre air pressure. Some pumps can auto bleed the air out, but some don't. So you just press the middle pin of the tyre air valve to let the air out.

You can drive anywhere and anyhow you want, modern cars don't really need to follow bulat bulat on breaking in already. Modern materials sciences and engineering solved that.

Just enjoy the car and follow the service schedule.

With that kind of money, can buy at least 2 pieces of high quality ipad screen protector. Why not just buy those and cut to size, save time and save cost.

And there's really no need for screen protector as 99.9% of time, you're using your finger tips to operate it. If you say want to avoid finger smudges, the protector does help initially but after sometime, after wiping it countless times down the road, the oleophobic coating also gone.

Unlike with the smartphone, where you put it in the pocket with keys, coins or other hard items which can scratch the screen surface. So have sense in applying a screen protector. Even for my own smartphone, despite only using side bumper type of silicone casing with no front flip cover, i didn't apply screen protector and till now, i hardly have any very visible scratches after almost 3 years of using it.

Here's an idea, for those who go do coating on your car, might as well request them to help you coat the screen. The vendor may feel puzzled but, i don't think they will charge you extra for that. Since the coating can help protect the car surface, it will also do likewise on the screen right?

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Jun 29 2016, 01:30 PM

Don't worry, garbage truck drivers very experienced already. All kinds of narrow roads, road blocks, weird car parking positions, early morning driving before the sun is out, these are the conditions that they face daily. As long as can fit the width of the truck, they can manage rather easily. Further, there are spotters on the ground all the time.

My house opposite audi A6 park outside, my side a SUV. Till now, not even a sign of issue on either of us.

Even rich bentley owners also have to throw rubbish right? So, all sorts of cars also they've seen it, they no feeling liao...

No cars will be targeted by them. Your risk of getting your car scratched by kids running around or bicycle handles are much higher than getting hit by garbage trucks. Although very much under rated, garbage truck people have serious driving skills

wa...orang selangor manyak kaya....

You try driving under ECON mode for a few days and a few days without it, you decide which one you prefer.

ECON mode will :
1) reduce throttle sensitivity = slower acceleration
2) reduce air cond compressor time = warmer air cond

I can't comment on the fuel consumption with this mode on/off as I don't own this car. You can experiment on your own.

Who knows, maybe you find the ECON mode ok for your driving style. You get to save some petrol (theoretically) at the same time.

Our plant here is a CKD plant, so it is mainly an assembly plant, not manufacturing. Only certain unimportant plastic bits, bumpers, interior finishing and some paint work is done by local contract manufacturing here. The main body structure is from Japan, Malaysia have no metal press plant for Honda. Our volume is too small to justify for such a metal press plant, that one needs huge amount of investment.

For this kind of system, the engine oil is mainly monitored by the engine hour method or the in built viscosity sensor (or a combination of both). Our weather and driving conditions can be the harshest on engine oil life (other than the extreme winter cold which we don't experiece). Hot and humid weather, combined with lots of start-stops and traffic jams, our bad habit of idling the car for long periods of time just for the air cond, and top it up with a relatively dustier environment, these factors are much averse to engine oil life. So we may have driven (example) 800km, but the actual engine hour could be equivalent to double of that or more. So even as you idle your car with the engine on, the engine is actually still running thus reducing the oil life despite no movements. Hence, the example given by cybermaster98 will surface. This, i just learned not too long ago, is very much unaware by most motorist.

The rule of thumb is, go for fully synthetic engine oils, (at least) service once a year or 10,000km (give and take 2000km; 15,000km - 20,000km if you use top range high mileage engine oil family together with range extended oil filters or change oil filters at half point). If you do lots of short runs (less than 10km or less than 10 minutes driving), better change your oil every 6 months. You can use semi synthetic in this case to save a bit on cost. Also, give it a good highway run at least once a week for about 15 minutes to evaporate out the water in the engine oil. Short runs can't bring the engine oil up to proper temperature.

This one may need to ask Honda technicians, but unlikely they implement 2 different system for the same thing. But who knows, maybe the 1.8 version just use mileage reminder....

The hybrids are already xW20 engine oil here for sometime. Modern engine oils are quite robust and since they recommend it, they sure have thoroughly tested it. Open up your manual and see the details regarding engine oil.

130km is your total driven mileage, should be the 9000km+ reading that is the estimated mileage till next oil change.

For now, just drive like normal until you see the indicator for oil change, no need headache to figure this out at the moment. This kind of system sure will have a reminder when reach a certain point. Enjoy your new car

ok lor....

If the headlights really bothers you, can consider changing to those slightly whiter halogen bulbs from Osram Night Breaker series or Philips Crystal/Diamond Vision. Shouldn't void warranty as those are wear and tear parts like the tyres. Just need to get the correct socket type and wattage.

Good for you to have a non rattling unit