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 Nissan Sentra CLub, LYN Sentra User

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Vanquish
post Mar 13 2008, 10:13 AM

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QUOTE(northiswara @ Mar 12 2008, 09:08 AM)
N16 rear suspension is same as B14 which is using torsion beam suspension with a big bar linking left and right wheel together.
if not mistaken N16 rear dont have anti roll bar.

the front i think got. its a short one. but not very sure.
*
B14's rear suspension is torsion beam meh? Isn't it multi-link beam? Torsion beam is a completely different type of axle leh... unsure.gif

QUOTE(sledgehammer @ Mar 12 2008, 11:43 PM)
em, if i am doing some tight turning, the car easily 'buang' and the weight transfer is very noticeable sad.gif

furthermore with the stock 14" rim, the tyres don't seem to have much contact with the road when cornering.... so i was thinking if an anti roll bar would help in this situation... rolleyes.gif

i tried a simple but quick slalom on a open road.... hehe, the car felt like a small boat in a big sea tongue.gif kekekkeke laugh.gif
*
Yeah, B14 and N16's rear suspension setup is horrid... shakehead.gif But like nismogan said, upgrade to larger wheels and wider tyres can rectify the handling weakness...
Vanquish
post Mar 13 2008, 10:16 AM

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QUOTE
Quoted by northiswara:

i heard that u changed ur O2 sensor in ur GA16de from a thread n LYN.
where u change it? tan chong? is it just take out then plug and play replacement?
how to notice if the O2 is not really functioning good? so far there is no engine check light on while the engine is running. but i always smell rotten egg from the exhaust. at first i tot is the oil that kena burnt then there is no engine oil loss so now i suspect is O2 sensor not very good. moreover my car power is a bit sluggish.
i got comparing my exhaust smell with my fren vios(mielage 50,000km) exhaust smell. his vios exhaust smell is ok, dont have rotten egg smell. but mine got rotten smell a bit with fuel smell. so guess my AFR is not correct now. by the way my mileage is 130,000km and the car is 10yrs old.


Dude, I think U may have heard wrongly, I never changed my O2/Lambda sensor on my previous GA16DE... I also had the same problem with my GA16 last time, got this really bad rotten egg smell from the exhaust... Before u change ur O2 sensor, have you car's engine re-tuned first and see what will happen... O2 sensor usually can last up to 200,000KM...
northiswara
post Mar 13 2008, 11:15 AM

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[QUOTE]B14's rear suspension is torsion beam meh? Isn't it multi-link beam? Torsion beam is a completely different type of axle leh...[CODE]

i saw from the autozine school website the diagram of torsion beam and it looks like our sentra rear setup. anywhere there is a beam tat attach the left and right wheel together like vios. so this beam can be lower stabiliser bar. hehe.......


Added on March 13, 2008, 11:29 am[quote=Vanquish,Mar 13 2008, 10:16 AM]
Dude, I think U may have heard wrongly, I never changed my O2/Lambda sensor on my previous GA16DE... I also had the same problem with my GA16 last time, got this really bad rotten egg smell from the exhaust... Before u change ur O2 sensor, have you car's engine re-tuned first and see what will happen... O2 sensor usually can last up to 200,000KM...
*

[/quote]

from a thread in LYN, u mentioned this :

2004 Accord 2.4... How much mileage have you clocked up so far?

Price on O2 sensors varies from car to car. My B14 Sentra's O2 sensor (Bosch) cost around RM300, but some may cost higher depending on make and model.

Dude, I suggest you take your Accord to another trusted mechanic to check if it's really the O2 sensor that's giving problems. If he can confirm that, only then go to buy the part.

As to which shop to go to, it really depend on where you are, man. If you're in PJ area, by all means go to PH Auto.

O2

u also has the rotten egg smell? hmm............ there are 2 things that i am suspecting now that is :
1. O2 sensor not functioning well so ECU tends to inject more fuel and making the engine running rich.
2. O2 is functioning but the ECU memang tends to run on richer AFR. therefore a piggyback is needed to correct this thing.

van,
everytime u start engine is it easy? my car need 3-4seconds to start which is a bit slow. my fren N16 need 1-2 second to start only.

how do u mean by retune the car? use piggyback?


Added on March 13, 2008, 11:31 amO2 Sensor failures

Normally, the lifetime of an unheated sensor is about 30,000 to 50,000 miles. Heated sensor lifetime is typically 100,000 miles. Failure of an unheated sensor is usually caused by the buildup of soot on the ceramic element, which lengthens its response time and may cause total loss of ability to sense oxygen. For heated sensors, normal deposits are burned off during operation and failure occurs due to catalyst depletion, similar to the reason a battery stops producing current. The probe then tends to report lean mixture, the ECU enriches the mixture, the exhaust gets rich with carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, and the mileage worsens.

Leaded gasoline contaminates the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Most oxygen sensors are rated for some service life in the presence of leaded gasoline but sensor life will be shortened to as little as 15,000 miles depending on the lead concentration. Lead-damaged sensors typically have their tips discolored light rusty.

Another common cause of premature failure of lambda probes is contamination of fuel with silicones (used in some sealings and greases) or silicates (used as corrosion inhibitors in some antifreezes). In this case, the deposits on the sensor are colored between shiny white and grainy light gray.

Leaks of oil into the engine may cover the probe tip with an oily black deposit, with associated loss of response.

An overly rich mixture causes buildup of black powdery deposit on the probe. This may be caused by failure of the probe itself, or by a problem elsewhere in the fuel rationing system.

Applying an external voltage to the zirconia sensors, e.g. by checking them with some types of ohmmeter, may damage them.

This post has been edited by northiswara: Mar 13 2008, 11:31 AM
Vanquish
post Mar 13 2008, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(northiswara @ Mar 13 2008, 11:15 AM)
from a thread in LYN, u mentioned this :
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

O2

u also has the rotten egg smell? hmm............ there are 2 things that i am suspecting now that is :
1. O2 sensor not functioning well so ECU tends to inject more fuel and making the engine running rich.
2. O2 is functioning but the ECU memang tends to run on richer AFR. therefore a piggyback is needed to correct this thing.

van,
everytime u start engine is it easy? my car need 3-4seconds to start which is a bit slow. my fren N16 need 1-2 second to start only.

how do u mean by retune the car? use piggyback?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
Well, for my SR16VE engine, morning engine start up is as smooth as silk... Takes only 1/2 to 1 sec to get the engine started... My previous GA16DE also doesn't take long to start, roughly 1 sec as well...

What I meant by re-tune is doing a diagnostic check on the ECU and see if there's any irregularities in any of the paramaters...

Thanks for sharing the info on Lambda Sensors... notworthy.gif
northiswara
post Mar 13 2008, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(Vanquish @ Mar 13 2008, 11:48 AM)
Well, for my SR16VE engine, morning engine start up is as smooth as silk... Takes only 1/2 to 1 sec to get the engine started... My previous GA16DE also doesn't take long to start, roughly 1 sec as well...

What I meant by re-tune is doing a diagnostic check on the ECU and see if there's any irregularities in any of the paramaters...

Thanks for sharing the info on Lambda Sensors... notworthy.gif
*
1 sec to start ur ga16de? mine long lor. 3-4 seconds. need to hear the engine spin few times then baru start. maybe the AFR is too rich so canot start so fast. sometimes the engine will die one if i drive without letting the engine warm up for 1-2min idle. hehe....... sounds like fuel is too rich so the engine can die without warm up.

i have a GA16DE factory service manual with me. to check the O2 sensor u not just need to use the palm/diagnostic tool to check but u also need a voltmeter to test the O2 terminal. problem is how professional is TC mechanic. hehe.............. some of the TC mechanic talk as if they are god one. they say no rosak means no rosak. haha.......... and how experience are they in checking O2 sensor is another question. i saying so because not much people wil actually ask mechanic to test their O2 sensor. majority people thinks that O2 sensor has a span life of life time including me until i found out that this O2 can be bad as early as before 100,000km mileage. the life time for heated O2 sensor is 100,000miles roughly 160,000km. after u mentioned u only need 1 sec to start ur car, just like my fren n16, 1 sec to start his car. i start to fear that my O2 sensor is actually bad.

no offence guys.
NISMOgan
post Mar 14 2008, 12:11 AM

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north, the starting difficulties might caused by the cold start valve problem? just a guess
Vanquish
post Mar 14 2008, 09:34 AM

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QUOTE(northiswara @ Mar 13 2008, 12:21 PM)
1 sec to start ur ga16de? mine long lor. 3-4 seconds. need to hear the engine spin few times then baru start. maybe the AFR is too rich so canot start so fast. sometimes the engine will die one if i drive without letting the engine warm up for 1-2min idle. hehe....... sounds like fuel is too rich so the engine can die without warm up.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

no offence guys.
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Actually, it sounds more like your starter motor and autochoke are problematic...

Whatever it is, just have ur O2 sensor, starter motor and autochoke checked...

There's a TC service center in Seri Kembangan, I highly recommend this SC becoz the guy in-charge there is a Nissan expert...
northiswara
post Mar 14 2008, 10:34 AM

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oic............
thanks pal.
but i at penang. hehe.............. the mechanic here so and so one lar.
u ask them question they also lazy layan u.
so many to check.
hmm......... easy solution change to sr16ve. hehe..........
sackeen
post Mar 14 2008, 04:56 PM

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wow, the OD really keng lah. turn it off and you can feel the power coming.... rclxms.gif rclxms.gif
northiswara
post Mar 15 2008, 03:33 PM

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haha.......... yeah, the gb down shift marr. u press more on the accelerator lagi more power come in.
put a 421 extrator then u can feel more more power.

sledgehammer
post Mar 16 2008, 10:51 AM

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QUOTE(NISMOgan @ Mar 13 2008, 09:40 AM)
north : aiyo no sifu la i`m learner too hehe, yea ultra racing is good, i`m planning to put ARB on this brand too

sledge : yea i agree with u the stock 14" rim + tyres is way too scrub for fast cornering, i still rmbr when i drove my ex camry at the same speed, same turn, my N16 lost control !

the best thing u can do now is to change to wider and better tyres + rims (optional) and also suspension, it will like increase ur handling more than 100%, i never lost grip since then, i`m using 205/50 R16 now with moderate tyres and rims. Going to install ARB when pocket allows hehee, go up genting my rear tyres still coming up if going to 'my' limit biggrin.gif (according to fren following behind). If u interested in getting ultra racing ARB let me know, i can get u some discount smile.gif
*
i tot of changing to wider tyres also...
195/55R15 is the best choice as i done the calculation using tyre calculator.... the difference is 0.1% only. thumbup.gif
the speedometer only has a small difference.... but too bad that the cost of changing all four rims is too expensive sad.gif

if suspension, we have to change to stiffer springs or absorber rite?
NISMOgan
post Mar 16 2008, 03:27 PM

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yeah u r right, but do not opt for cheap alt such as cut spring and funny funny stuff smile.gif
northiswara
post Mar 17 2008, 10:45 AM

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sledge,

u are driving N16? N16 stock rim is 15inch rite?
i driving B14 stock steel rim is 14inch with 185/60/r14. now using 195/55/r15, i have enlarge the tyre outer diameter by 3% if not mistaken.
sledgehammer
post Mar 17 2008, 11:53 AM

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QUOTE(northiswara @ Mar 17 2008, 10:45 AM)
sledge,

u are driving N16? N16 stock rim is 15inch rite?
i driving B14 stock steel rim is 14inch with 185/60/r14. now using 195/55/r15, i have enlarge the tyre outer diameter by 3% if not mistaken.
*
yeah... but my n16 is the first n16.... using 185/65/r14... since it is 1.6a. I guess the 1.8 version is using 15" rim.....
Vanquish
post Mar 17 2008, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(northiswara @ Mar 17 2008, 10:45 AM)
sledge,

u are driving N16? N16 stock rim is 15inch rite?
i driving B14 stock steel rim is 14inch with 185/60/r14. now using 195/55/r15, i have enlarge the tyre outer diameter by 3% if not mistaken.
*
195/55/R15 is actually a standard size on the Pulsar VZ-R...

QUOTE(sledgehammer @ Mar 17 2008, 11:53 AM)
yeah... but my n16 is the first n16.... using 185/65/r14... since it is 1.6a. I guess the 1.8 version is using 15" rim.....
*
If you change to 195/60/R15 also should be OK wan...
Vanquish
post Mar 18 2008, 10:46 AM

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Good morning all... wave.gif
stardust
post Mar 18 2008, 10:55 AM

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morning .
nissan sentra b14 year 99 report in .
northiswara
post Mar 18 2008, 11:42 AM

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hi b14!,
u got sr16ve under the hood?
hehe........
dp82
post Mar 18 2008, 02:10 PM

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Hi guy !

Just got my new N16 Sport. I'm loving it.

Quick questions, hope you guys can help smile.gif

1. Planning to change my 14" rim to 16" or 17". Any recommended brand? And tyre size? Ok, im more to GAYA person, so i guess i can sacrifice on the comfort & FC . But having said that, will the FC increase like >10% if i change to 16" or 17".

2. Tint? Any recommended brand beside Vkool?

3. How bout ur FC? Mine Full Tank RM 90++ can go average 550km - 90% City + 10% Highway


Cheers !
sledgehammer
post Mar 19 2008, 01:02 AM

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something to share with u guys...
i just gotten my n16 service today....not via TC service center...
and most importantly, i changed my ATF to nissan matic D....

now my auto gb gear change is smooth! not like previous times where it jerks regardless upshift or downshift....
previously if upshift within <3krpm range, still ok... but >3krpm, it jerks most of the time..

now the jerking is minimal.. hehe thumbup.gif
and it is noticed that the more power transferred from engine to the wheels... lesser lag in the auto gearbox
i am not sure what ATF is inside previously but i believed it is castrol since the n16 forumers said TC Malaysia is using castrol instead of matic D.

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