From my research only that brand got the push on/off function to cut off power+water at the same time.
Other brands seem to need to turn the control valve in order to off the water flow.

Also, wish to see if anyone has experience using Toshiba water heater? Looks cool with the digital temp LCD and more reasonably priced.

Actually not that hard if there's ready power point, just drill 4 holes to mount the WH then connect up the wires.
If drilling on tiles get the proper bosch tile drill bit CYL-9 5.5mm. The rest all useless one.. take forever to drill and botak fast.

How old is the unit already? Does it happen at all when low heat?

Not OK.

No earth wire like ozak said. So any good WH will not operate because if there is a short or leakage, the current cannot flow to earth but it just goes through the path of least resistance (the poor guy or gal taking bath).

Then the aftermath will come out in the newspapers https://www.nst.com.my/news/nation/2020/08/...e-electrocution

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So to prevent that from happening, a full 3 wire dedicated LNE from DB box is the right solution. And a 10mA RCD or RCBO must be fitted in. Its not that expensive for a decent one from Schneider - https://www.lazada.com.my/products/easy9-rc...APtevD&search=1 - about RM128 or so. ABB and Hager are good too but costs more.

Cable used should be mega kabel or caramay cable - min 2.5mm for all three. There are a lot of fake cable selling for half the price but they present a fire risk as one water heater is easily two and a half aircond units' consumption. Aircon 1hp only use 6A.. water heater anywhere from 14A-16A depends on wattage so one cannot skimp on good cables.

That 15A round pin plug socket is also running very close to redline for a 3300W heater and should NOT be used for a 3600W heater.

This is typical load amps for a 3300W heater:


Result of undersized cable + joinery that should NOT be there (ie. run a full direct cable from DB into WH with zero joinery in between):






This post has been edited by ceo684: Sep 21 2020, 02:05 PM

Yeah a lot cut corner because 4mm price is roughly 40pc more than 2.5mm (136 vs 90 per 1 roll 100m) but WH circuit is not the place to cut corners.

Nowadays storage WH also 3000W i.e. 13.043A which exceed a 13A socket and is running close to the limit on 15A plug. The plug/socket is not a good idea as loose connections cause fires. Hence that is one of the basis why ST regulation says to use direct DB connection to the water heater instead as this is a high load appliance.

Basically it's outlined here - https://www.st.gov.my/en/contents/publicati...r%20Systems.pdf

The mandatory item:
1. A 10mA RCD [dedicated for WH circuit only] must be installed.
1.1 Failure to install 10mA RCD and fault condition occur = results in ending up on the news https://www.malaymail.com/news/malaysia/202...c-shock/1896447

2. Pull direct 4mm LNE cable from DB box to WH
2.1 Use good cable with mfg name, spec (4.0mmsq) and with MS2112-3 SIRIM certified printed on it.
Many elcheapo cable either no name, undersized, or for car use (low voltage PVC Auto).
Good cable come from Mega Kabel, Caramay, or any of the cartel here http://www.mcma.org.my/member.htm will be OK.

3. Insulation of the hot copper pipes is recommended for heating efficiency (not mandatory).
Superlon foam tube very cheap 2m only RM2 or so only.
Superlon can stand up to 85-105C. More than enough for WH hot pipe. See https://www.superlon.com.my/wp-content/uplo...alogue-2019.pdf

4. For the water piping connection at the WH can use a short flexihose (Hokah recommended) to connect them to permanent piping so easier to remove the unit if there is a need to service it or replace it next time (as compared to hardcoded permanent installation).
4.1 Can also install a service valve so you can off the water inlet (input) to WH in case it leak or other malfunction.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 31 2021, 12:55 AM

All also will recommend 4mm as per ST guidelines. 2.5mm proper cable can still use lah if its 3kW class (divide the 3800W by 230V to get amps 16.52 A). Still within 21A max current capacity of quality 2.5mm² cable. If substandard cable then another story lah.

Quality cable meaning SIRIM approved MS2112:3 compliant cable for the ones concealed in the wall.
Quality cables will print the spec and certified to MS standard blablabla not just to show off, but its a requirement as PVC cables are controlled items -see https://www.st.gov.my/en/contents/files/dow...ble_testing.pdf. Those that never print are suspicious.



Fake certification on cable also a problem here in Bolehland - https://www.sirim-qas.com.my/forgery-on-license-no-pc000218/

You should NOT use a 4.8kW class heater with 2.5mm² cable as it is running at redline for 2.5mm² cable.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 9 2021, 07:56 PM

Hi hi! 4mm is OK up to 32A load. 6kW exactly is 26A. If the whole point is using 4mm then it’s still within safe range of the 4mm cable. Feel free to PM.