Check this page for full Lego motor list and specification.

For speed, use this "Electric RC Race Buggy Motor"

Current editions are XL/L/M motors, which are quite slow RPM.

At the vehicle side, will need motor, IR receiver and battery box.
At your RC side, just the RC.

Best and easiest example is refer to 9398 Crawler.

Don't compare to Tamiya RC on the speed, you'll be severely disappointed.

I'm not sure on your experience level with current XL/L/M and also the servo motor. My advise is buy 9398 set, build it up, and learn about the motor driving fwd/back, and then whether to use servo/M/L motor for steering left/right.

From there, then can explore into motorize other sets, and you can dismantle 9398 to use as spare parts. Later decide if want to buy the replacement parts or not. Also, check Internet, I'm sure many Lego enthusiast has motorized and share pictures. Some will also share the parts and steps. Generally, most will not give full detailed guidelines, you need to see pictures and reverse-engineer from there yourself. Trial and error. Get lots of spare parts like pins, axles, liftarms, gears, etc. which are cheap, as compared to the electronic parts.

This is what I did to motorized 8110 Unimog couple of years ago, shared in earlier threads here before.

[WARNING HUGE IMAGES]


Servo-motor at mid-front, most ideal position after testing several designs and locations.



Side view of the servo-motor.



XL-motor for Drive, as it fits. Else L or M motor will work also.



Gear reduction. Lessen stress on motor. Also reduce speed. It's not as maneuverable or can climb like 9398, due to several factors.



IR receiver simply put on top of cabin there.



End result - video. Battery box just put at the dumper.

Hmm, I'm not sure which latest or non EOL set which is good. Maybe 42030 Volvo ? As it has motors, servo and RC.

8293 is a beginner box with just M motor and battery box. No IR, no RC, no servo motor.
You have fancy lights for decoration purpose only.
Also, total cost for parts wise is not cheap.

Full box set is more expensive, e.g. 42030 Volvo. But you get a lot of spare parts and full set motor/controllers.

I have mini cooper and samba van, but not yet build. Going slow on building Lego at the moment. Just finish 42009 and an old 8455 pneumatic backhoe recently. Maybe start to mod 42009.

Buying parts in bulk is cheaper, and can use for multiple projects:

Both are good sets in my opinion in terms of technicality, but not the exterior look which the mini cooper, porsche, 41999, etc. wins). It's more towards physics and learning about RC for Lego, e.g. a major Lego problem is always the Ackerman steering issue. This is one of the 8110 motorized factor as I mention in several posts above. Automotive student/grads will know and can explain Ackerman steering better than me. I believe mini cooper will have this issue also. Therefore, it won't be as agile as 9398.

For your case, to learn about Lego RC, 9398 is more attractive.
However, if you don't care much about Technics stuff and just want to RC it, perhaps 42030 is easier option to find.

All old pictures 2-3 years ago la bro, no time take new pic, even for the 42009 or 8455 non-mod. only few Technic modders here, I remember you

Since 8455 is manual pneumatic, I've purchased parts to build an external air-compressor using M motor and pump.
42009 Jurgen Ultimate parts are complete as well, no time mod yet.

BTW, I got 2 sets 9398. 2nd set already broke up for parts. At that time, it was cheapest around RM600 only.

Many box-huggers and scalpers here
Also most will just build and display.
Only few modders.

Lego aim is for creativity and to explore/build/mod. The default build is just a guideline.

You mean you dismantle and keep in original box ?

I keep full unit. Some put in plastic bags and display on simple rack, ugly but no need clean the dust, just change plastic bag. Some I put into carton boxes and stack it up. Easy to take out and review/mod/test parts. Sometimes idea comes out which can test on other builds.

IMHO, there is nothing much to mod for 9398, it's quite a complete and functional RC, except LED lights or cosmetic into 41999. Actually you can design whatever top-mould to swap into 9398.

If you mean which set is worth to dismantle as spares, it depends on what you have in mind. For me is mostly RC, so these components are important in following order:
1) servo-motor - still rarest.
2) IR receiver - can get from motorized city train set.
3) XL or L motor
4) M motor
5) RC controller - 2 types - one of it can get from motorized city train set.
6) Battery box - 2 types - one of it can get from motorized city train set.

Since I have a lot of spare parts for #4-6, that's my priority above.
Therefore, the sets in my mind are like 9398, 42030, ...


Edit: I just remembered I mod 9398 from L into XL motor, did not play much on gear ratio.
It's not strongly secured, but secured enough that the motor won't fall out or bend the liftarms. Some comments:
* XL motor RPM is slower than L motor, but higher torque.
* RC speed did not improve, nor any noticeable climbing/crawling capability.
* Since the XL torque is much higher, frequent gear teeth grinding.

Summary: 9398 with L-motors are quite perfectly design already.






This post has been edited by cute_boboi: Aug 29 2016, 05:11 PM

Gearing up will make it faster. Downside is stress on motor. Also wear and tear on gears teeth.
Especially when you release RC speed control, and the vehicle momentum drives the gear back, into the motor.
Sometimes can hear gear teeth crunching

8293 box set easier to find.
8870 need to find. Or from overseas Lego/Bricklink/etc.

Sell it in parts, I'm sure there are interested buyers.

LOL ... same here, I just finish assemble w/o stickers two weeks ago Seems like no B-Model Even 8110 Unimog, 42009 crane, all got B-Model.

Got the 42063 BMW motorcycle not yet unbox. I've 3 motorcycles now, and plan to keep collecting in future.

I didn't check online before building, just check the box-set no manual for B-model, as I thought it comes with printed manual like some earlier sets.

Anyway, not going to disassemble A-model to build B-model , and then vice versa again. Normally I build B-model first, they disassemble and build A-model to keep.

Last time like 8-10 years ago, HK big sets are cheaper like 20-30%. Then 5-6 years ago, when HKD rate goes up until >RM55 : HKD100, the % drop to like 2-10% and wasn't worth it anymore. Looks like now is cheap again ?

Check my very old siggie

BrickLink has local and overseas sellers which may ship to Malaysia.

Shipping cost is the killer, try get more parts in one go.
Shipping is cheaper if bought from nearer/ASEAN countries, but item cost maybe more expensive.
Shipping is expensive and slow if from Eastern Europe, but item cost maybe the cheapest.
Have to dig ownself and find out.

How slow is slow shipping ? I have items which takes >2 months to arrive via normal mail. So far no missing packages ever, but do have in mind about things and $ you can lose in transit. Also, don't bother mint boxes as the damage chances is quite high as well.

Not really. Most of the times, the average cost of item is still cheaper when I purchase overseas + shipping. Also, the choices & varieties of items are more overseas.
Not sure about now though.

bricklink.com

Bricklink. Find stores from ASEAN countries, the shipping is more affordable and overall cost will be cheaper than ordering from EU/US stores. Check seller stores on shipping cost if you over a certain weight limit, try control or purchase more to fully maximize the weight.
Unless you need to very rare pieces then no choice.
Also wait and group all your order together from one or just 2-3 stores rather than spread out everywhere. Again, do an overall costing.
Some stores allow pickup, e.g. last time I order from one HK seller when I went to HK for a trip and he arranged me to pickup at one particular shop in Yau Ma Tei area.

There is no way you can buy the parts at cheapest listed price.

Depending on your project, I did buy full box and split it to get the parts after I calculated the total cost for parts is already more than half the cost of a full box, but yet I'm getting just 10-20% of the parts count only. e.g. box = rm1k, 1000 pieces. If buy loose parts 100 pieces, but already cost me RM500+
Of course not every part is equal average cost, but as I say, do simple costing on the parts.

Depends what part. Normally I use BrickLink.com as it has extensive parts and many sellers to choose from various countries.

It's not cheap to motorized. I suggest get a set like 9398 or 42099 to built it yourself. Then study the servo, drive, suspension, link-arm, bushes, axles, rods, etc.

There a quite a few modders and e.g. you can try search for Sariel.

If you expect to zoom around like RC cars, you are in for disappointment.

My old video motorizing Unimog 8110 (2nd favourite modded).

#1 Testing XL motor


#2 Testing servo/steering mechanism


#3 First trial run


List of parts, just search the breakdown list of 9398/42099 in BrickLink to find the remote, IR, motors, servo, etc. and you get the idea of individual unit costs.