Zee's informative DIY post of the day
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Those who have ticking sound or crackling sound near the speedometer can try to do something below. Mine ocassionally have ticking sound in the morning or on a cool day.

Whenever i press that circled part it makes a ticking/cracking noise.


1. Remove the steering column cover. Got 4 screws underneath. After remove just use your hand to detach it. You might need to adjust the steering height to remove it properly.


2. After column removed. You can see circled area. Remove that 2 screws.


3. See the circled area. Start with red circle, put your left hand inside and right hand holding the side. Give it a tug to pull the cover out towards your direction. Then proceed with yellow. When pulling out increase the force slowly. It will detach. The clips will not break as it is not like the A pillar clip which is fragile


4. After both side detached. Use both hands to slide out the cover. You will see it looks like this.


5. This works for me i just use electrical tape to wrap around the joint. I guess this is where the ticking sound coming from rubbing against plastic. See circled area.

More closeup. Sorry about scratches because i used to stuff some metal into the gap. Now no need anymore.


6. After you're done. Slide it back until the clips snap back in. I removed 4-5 times without problem because after i experimented the area to apply the tape it still have ticking sound whenever i press that part. After few attempts i dont hear it anymore whenever i press.

Hope this is helpful for someone. It's a 45min job for me but once i knew how to remove it only takes 20minutes.

This post has been edited by crayzee: May 23 2016, 11:45 AM

Reduce back pressure could affect automatic gear shifting i think, some will experience the car change gear at different rpm. Not sure how CVT can be impacted. If manual transmission, then no problem

Instead of removing muffler i add another mid bullet muffler instead Can't stand the low rpm growl between 1.5-2k rpm

Mine is a straight flow mid bullet, no impact on the flow. Just to reduce certain frequency. It's added between the pinapple and the rear muffler. Only reduced, does not eliminate it. I plan to change to 4-2-1 header later because i prefer more power on the low end for city driving.

For head unit crackling sound especially during hot day can try to DIY this.

Insert 2 flat screw driver underneath and slowly pry it out. Apply force towards you and it will pop out.


Once pop out becareful not to pull the whole thing out as there is a cable connected to the front panel. Detach it.



Tape the surrounding area circled with electrical tape.




Some ppl who had rattling sound inside may open up to check. Mine no rattle so i didnt check further.

Once you're done. Push it back to snap back. Remember to put back the connector before snap back the panel.

Yours is exec or premium? When i open parts of the car I observed Proton did cut cost on certain areas and bits and pieces are off.
Mostly minor stuff like A pillar cover supposedly got 3 clips but it only has 2. The body panel has clip hole but the cover doesnt have clip holder. That's why that cover a little bit loose. The door rattling also because the foam is at the wrong place causing the power window cable to rattle. I'm a DIY person and it's not hard to open up to check and investigate.


For your case, indeed all cables and wires are wrapped except for the wires that run through the back of the car (possibly rear light, reverse camera, rear wiper, etc). You can't see it but you can put in your hand to feel it. Those are not wrapped and are loose. The cables run through from HU side across the dashboard and to the A pillar. Take out the glovebox and put your hand in near the HU side. You can feel wires that's not wrapped with tape but they run together. Insert sponge to prevent it from hitting the dash. Do the same for A pillar cover area where I've posted earlier, put your hand inside the dashboard cover near the small window and feel the loose wires hanging there. Insert sponge to prevent wires from hitting the dash.

My car now is free from rattles, even on rough roads.

Refer to my previous post to open the panel first. Then i think this 4 screws are used to secure the HU. I didnt open it because i dont have the rattling behind this area. You might need to check if it's the panel that's causing the rattling first. The sound from where it came from can be deceiving sometimes.

For door panel i just used hands to remove. Quite easy.
There is 1 screw near the unlock handle (blue arrow)
1 at the handle for the power window switch (green arrow)
and remove the circled red part you will see 2 more screws that hold the panel.

To remove circled part u need to pull out after remove screw from green arrow bcos it is secured by clip. Becareful as the power window switch cable is attached. Dont pull out too much. After u remove it then u can see 2 more screws. After remove all 4 screws, start to pull out door panel from bottom first then work your way to the sides.

Oh yeah forgot one thing. The door unlock handle there got cables. It looks like a bicycle cable. Pull out 45degrees circled area and lift it up.

Door panel u can insert flat screw driver wrapped with electrical tape to prevent paint scratch. U see underneath the door panel got hole for u to put in flat head screw driver.

Top no clip bro. Only sides and bottom. Dont simply pull out top part else u break something at the top. Check youtube how ppl remove door panel, it's almost similar for other makes.

The proper way is pull out from bottom and sides until all clips are released. Then lift the door panel upwards, not towards you.

Anyone know front/rear door speaker what size? is it 6.5inch? Wana DIY to replace it.

Premium no positioning light. DRLs replaced that functionality.

All variants got high beam, normal and positioning light (except Premium).

Non premium (off -> positioning light -> positioning light + normal)
Premium (Bright DRL -> Lowered brightness DRL -> Lowered brightness DRL + Normal) <-- anyone driving premium correct me if i'm wrong

Most of the cars are like this bro unless you're talking about higher end car, like the passat which has something like a molded closed cell foam which is why luxury cars have better sound proofing.


The plastic is not for insulation but to prevent rain water from coming in.

DIY-ed upgrade my front speakers to infinity component and door sound proofing.

1st impression was
1) Lost bass on the lower volume (below vol 7)
2) Tighter bass on higher volume (above vol 8)
3) Clarity improved a lot (EQ need to reduce to min, else the high will be ear piercing)
4) Highway drive 110kmh still able to listen to music at vol 4 because the tweeter now is directing towards me. Bass became weak on highway drive.
5) Sitting at rear cant really hear the tweeter, so only hearing muddy audio from passengers at the back.

It's normal i guess, got passat cc as rental car last time, tried to step on brake and accelerator at the same time, the engine rev freely.

u got 3 legs?

I had rattling steering when turning as well. Simple DIY job is to remove the horn/airbag cover and tape the 2 "legs" with insulation tape. There is too much play because it is secured by spring.

yup

If premium try to see under the seat and check the cable for front passenger and driver (unplug and plug back) Probably it's loose.

This post has been edited by crayzee: Aug 5 2016, 11:19 AM