Coating is never designed to be a must for any color of the car. Coating is just a "revolutionary" paint protection product that lasts longer than the conventional wax/sealant, apart from some other outstanding attributes (eg: strongly hydrophobic, hardness, resist to chemical, etc.).

Typically, coating makes cleaning/maintenance more easily, so dirt can't easily attach on top of it. Or dirts do not directly "attack" on the bare surface of clearcoat.

My 2 cent 

Based on my experience, yes, bird poops can be easier to wipe off from the coating compared to bird poops from bare, unprotected paintwork surface.

Hmm...my little bit of research on "why white paint turns yellowish". Here are the 2 links that discussed about that:
1) http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showt...Pmt4OMxps4mV.97
2) http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-to...teaches-us.html

White paint turns yellowish because of dirts and contamination bonded to the paint over the time. Same thing happens to darker paint as well, but it's just harder for us to see. So, if coating acts as a "sacrificial layer" to protect the car paintwork for long period of time, yes, coating definitely can help to prevent white paint from turning yellowish. 

Well, coating can reduce the risk of stonechip to certain extent, IMO, but I disagree it can completely block stonechip.

In short, no matter you have coating or not, regular+proper cleaning/maintenance is the key to protect the good condition of paintwork. Coated car without proper regular cleaning is useless too as the performance of the coating might deteriorate over the time and you might not get the full durability of the coating as what it should be able to attain.

Yes, I would still recommend you to do coating if your budget is permissible

Residue after rain? You mean watermarks?
Some detailers might offer your the service to remove scratches after they have coated your car. You might just need to pay some money and they can get it done. You have to ask then

I am interested to do coating as well. Which coating have you decided to do that costs 2k?

Gtechiq C1, Gzox Real Glass and Sierra Glow Blue Flame can be done in 2k range...if need to plus inner or total protecr then need 2.5k range (Sierra Glow no inner).......

Gtechiq Crystal Serum 7 yrs CS Black TSP (Total In & Out) will be 4k range...

1k cannot be those well known coating brand as I had been asking almost all major brand in Penang except those car wash own brand coating.....plus those cheaper coating should be only exterior n no warranty ...plus without windscreen, windows, headlight, rims, dashboard n seat....

Famous brand in Pg are Gtechiq, Gzox, Sierra Glow, Nano Armor, Ecoat....etc..

If you dont mind on long warranty on body paint color and superhydrophobic (repel water) then 1k or below series should be fine.  It is still better then if w/o any coating at all...

Need to check w/ your coating, some can use any car shampoo as long as not too strong...but some need to be selected shampoo....normally we also dunno wt shampoo use by car wash ahhaah!!

Try check how was the coating density, layers, hardness etc which determine how strong it can sustain on ur body paint.

Just make sure you don't send to roadside car wash that uses improper washing method (eg: dirty cloth to wipe entire car) and harsh chemical such as detergent. Then, you should be fine.

To be safe, send back to the shop where you do the coating. Usually car wash should be cost around RM15 I guess?
Sometimes, it is safer to send back to same shop to avoid warranty being voided.

that's where you have to be really patient. wet sanding helps, and a small item (a block of wood or a piece of plastic) held behind the sandpaper gives you much more control. besides it will take a lot to even get past the clear coat so no, not too worried. after the application i found no interface from the surroundings, just between the new paint and the old, but that's expected. you can buy clear coat and recoat, but from my experience its even more challenging, so i skipped this step. what happens is over time the new paint without clear coat may discolor a bit, but some polish and compound usually restores it.

i got that too, but now my base coat almost finish and my clear coat still almost full. hahaha. tutorials are meant to make it look easy lah, I take them with a pinch of salt, unless of course, they're my tutorials. LOL

The term "coating" is pretty vague nowadays. Any product which has cross-linking nanotech can be considered a coating. To me, the Fusso Coat is more a sealant than a "coating" per se.

You can try beginner ceramic coatings like Carpro Cquartz Lite, Tacsystems Moonlight or Gyeon CanCoat, which are designed with ease of use in mind.

Tbh, I don't have experience applying a proper ceramic coating yet. So I can't really comment any further.

Any traditional wax, sealant and coating will bead water. It's just a matter of how long the beading lasts until it starts sheeting water, and then finally wear out completely.

I never tried Fusso Coat, so I can't comment on its durability. But I would expect to get about 4 to 5 months of protection out of it, instead of the 12 months as advertised.

But bear in mind that water beading is not always desirable especially when you have water spotting issues. This is when water sheeting would be favorable instead.

But for long lasting water beading, any ceramic coating would do fine for you.

Try more affordable options like Meguair’s HWC or Osren spray SiO2.

Btw, to the rest how do you guys wash your towels usually? What sort of detergent you use?

Most basic Dynamo. Soak it in soapy water for at least half a day, rinse, then soak them in clear water for at least another half a day, lastly air dry in the shade.
Fuuu! Do keep us updated as the project progress!
First application dry and neat. Subsequent application can be wet and diluted 1:4. I believe there is a Osren YouTube video that shows us how to apply.