20 liters will cost you less than RM130. Can last for 2/3 years even if you wash everyday.



Osren Bubble & Wax

OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD (590911-A)
54, Jalan 5/32A, Off 6 1/2 Miles,
Jalan Kepong, 52100,
Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia.

Coordinate : 3.205025, 101.648818
TELEPHONE
+603-6250 9258
+603-6253 9258

11) Final outcome

After all LSP finish applied.







Now the engine detailing is considered done for me.

Last but not least, try to start the engine and check if all electrical equipment function normally.

Because de-greasing has been done, but some part of the engine actually is better to have grease, such as the pulley shaft, the batter terminal sponge (if you have it), one can re-apply again manually. For me I usually spray a light coat of silicon lubricant on these area.

One can certainly bring up the level of engine bay detailing depending on how many resources you have. For example if you have a steamer, you can do steam cleaning, which is very efficient in removing gunk. If you have long brush, you can reach to the very bottom of the engine bay and do much more brushing.

The method I used is certainly not the only method and it is only best suited for me at the moment. As time progress I might change, you should too.

Finally I hope you enjoy reading my engine bay detailing post. Cheers. 

a lot of ppl prefer gold class btween the two due to better cleaning ability

UWW is a lil bit lacking in that area

some more GC is cheaper

It can be deep, very deep. Those cats created few visible claw scratches within 1 week after collecting my black car, sent to compound polish the worker told me unable to recover after he tried, too hard it will burn the clear coat... I think it depends if the cat's paw accumulated with sand particles... I not sure if having those thick 9H ceramic coating will reduce the damages done?

Mind to share what brand of 9H coating you used?
I saw those youtube video they use key-fob or plastic side (of coz not sharp metal scratching) to scratch, after that just wipe away those residue, impressive...

above average to me
i prefer their gold classs
clean better and cheaper too

Same here, I have both. Now I'm using the W&W for regular washing to finish the bottle, however if the car really dirty I still fall back to Gold Class lol.

Sorry late reply. I use 1 oz shampoo and one gallon of water. (I have a measuring cup for this).

Rinse in a separate bucket (2 bucket method). I don't use grit guard lol.

does anyone here coat their car ?
did my coating 1 year ago and now easily water spotting the whole car.
how do i remove it ? try to wash the car and rubbed it to no avail.

i check you tube people show can try use Distilled vinegar.

1. Put used mf into the washing machine
2. Pour some detergent into the appropriate slot in the washing machine
3. Plug the power and press start

No la.. Joking only.. Normally i would wash my MF with sunlight then using hand to remove excess polish oil..  If I use waterbased type polish then i use breeze cloth soap..
My PNS is the 210ml not the black profiline one.. Old version i should say..  Bought in 2015 or 2016 iinm..

Mmm, if u get a fluffier and thicker microfiber towel that should reduce the need to go in one by one to dry. That's what I usually do. Besides, leaving a small water residue doesnt do much damage, unless u are the very anal type and want it to be completely dry dry.
Yes u can, just do the plastic bag test to see if u need to clay before re-waxing. Else, worst case just re-wax anyways.

In that case I would suggest cleaner wax/sealant