WELCOME TO [V5].

Continuation from previous:

Car Care & Detailing [V1]

Car Care & Detailing [V2]

Car Care & Detailing [V3]

Car Care & Detailing [V4]

Shine on

Guides, FAQs, etc.
(Articles/Suggestions with links are most welcome)

[-Reserved for TT, Gatherings, Events, etc-]

Hopefully tomorrow bro...

@Quazacolt....do your stuff....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Mar 8 2016, 10:04 AM

Errr...do I need to do anything?

YOU DID WHAT??!! *sigh* Sorry for your loss...that would be difficult to replace...

Pressure washer works wonders on tyres and wheel wells, but on paint, I don't see much of an advantage unless you do lots of 'off-roading'...

May I suggest you try using more solution rather than thicker/stronger shampoo mix...soak the panel with some of it before washing and use more soapy water on your wash mitt. And since you've already got the washing part well covered, you might want to look into your drying system/method as well. We all know about 'wash-induced' swirls but don't forget about 'drying-induced' swirls....

Going OCD, plenty of causes for 'drying-induced' swirls. Dirty towel, *seasoned* towel where the fibres are a little bit hardened/stiff, dust/dirt particles settling on the paint after washing and before drying, drying method, etc...etc. Going even more OCD, once anything touches the paint, there would be chances for swirls/scratches. We can only MINIMIZE them by taking all the necessary steps and care. Rule of thumb is WORK CLEAN and PROPER TECHNIQUES. Make sure the towel is good and clean, and wipe as lightly as possible. Some people I know even use an air blower to blow the water off instead of using a towel.....

Most effective technique would be by 'blotting' instead of 'dragging'/'wiping' - you can use any cloth that can absorb water and don't have to resort to getting those 'specialty' drying cloth. But to tell you the truth, I myself seldom use that technique...too slow...hahahaha.

Actually, it's not as scary as people made it sounds like....all you need it just somebody to guide you and a test panel. When I first started, my guide was youtube and my test panel was my in-laws neglected Nissan 120Y....

Claying would 'shear off' contaminant embedded ON TOP OF the surface of the paint. It does not remove contaminant inside the pores of the paint. The sponge is dirty because by polishing, you're removing those contaminant.

Regardless, the 'Mark I' LHR15E is more than good enough for pro or pro-sumer and RM1400 is a very good price indeed.

If you don't know what you're doing, better send it to the pro. But if you can't afford to and still want to do it, go slowly, learn about the steps, products, methods, etc. before you start so that you don't create more harm than good. You can start by learning how to apply a sealant (liquid). Then look for a mild polish and try it out since polishing and applying sealant utilise the same techniqe except for the pressure during 'application'. When you've achieve a satisfactory result with a mild polish then you can start looking into using a compound to remove the rest of the deeper defects.

Good luck.

Cannot open....

For a good quality paint job...for RM1000 you might be able to do a couple of door panels...

I would be very wary if anybody (commercial shops) say they can do one whole car for RM1000...even for re-clear coating only....

Not ok....not recommended...

Elo everybody...newbie here...

Wow...good to see you're still around and this thread is still alive...LONG LIVE DETAILING....