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 Car Care & Detailing [V5], Caring for your car apprearance

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gfwong
post May 25 2017, 07:00 PM

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Update on sealants durability
Here
gfwong
post May 26 2017, 08:18 AM

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QUOTE(N33d @ May 25 2017, 03:54 PM)
Logically should be sealant which has better durability first then shiny thing last. A chain is as strong as it weakest link
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I do agree. Sealants are more durable that natural (carnauba containing wax). So, it would be a good idea to first apply sealant to create a durable barrier. After proper curing, then if preferred, one could top up a layer of wax to create more shine and depth that sealants lack. Depth is only more perceivable on darker coloured cars. If one's car is light coloured like white, silver, then wax will only give a tad more shine.

See advice from detailing guru Larry for layering techniques: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=We_x09XCf6I

My "cheat code" for darker cars is to seal it with sealant and after curing, top up with Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba+ Quik Wax (spray wax). Natural wax wouldn't last long in our weather anyway, so a carnauba-containing spray wax saves time and gives shine! tongue.gif



QUOTE(N33d @ May 25 2017, 07:04 PM)
rclxms.gif nice work
i have been waiting for your update
*look at my UPW*  blink.gif

glass 1 : sealant 0  biggrin.gif
*
Thanks thumbsup.gif

This post has been edited by gfwong: May 26 2017, 08:28 AM
gfwong
post May 27 2017, 07:50 AM

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QUOTE(hebehow @ May 26 2017, 07:40 PM)
btw...how u handle ur interior detail like dashboard, leather seat..? alway talk bout exterior only...haha...
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My interior care routine. Usually, I'll do this as per needed basis.

I also use steam cleaner every 6 months on leather seats.

This post has been edited by gfwong: May 27 2017, 07:53 AM
gfwong
post Jun 2 2017, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(blurcase @ Jun 1 2017, 01:59 PM)
I watched his video also. I kinda think the message is subject to individual interpretation. He mentioned his car has not been clayed in years, but for us who use our cars as daily drivers and with our tropical climate conditions, it can be quite different.

Personally I have had situations where I may not clay my car but go straight to paste wax. This is quite possible if I apply my paste wax more regularly (like once every 2-3 months). I believe wax helps the car in the sense that less contaminants have the chance to stick onto the paint and unable to remove via wash and requiring to clay to remove.

For situations where the car is very well taken care off (means regular wash and protection maintenance and also minimal driving in rain and parked indoors), it is possible to quickly clay the car around 10 minutes or so. But again, given many of us are probably regular working folks that require our car to go out and park where required and convenient, the reality is more likely that our cars will pickup more contaminants which longer claying time to remove everything.

After detailing my own and family cars for over 15 years, I now "close 1 eye" abit more when it comes to regular detailing. My own car only gets clayed 1-2 times a year, other cars may get at most 1 time a year. Dont do the plastic bag test and close 1 eye, can pass lor. But when the semangat strikes, then extreme mode comes in and claying alone takes 2-3 hours, compound/polishing takes 2-4 days, hehehe...
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rclxms.gif Well said. After a while, most of us tends to close one eye d.

I think the message Larry is trying to deliver is clay+compound+polish if necessary. If the new car condition is okay, straight away coat it. I think in some of his older vids (or maybe some other guy), it is stressed that clay will mar the paint as it contains abrasives. So I guess, if you are planning to compound and polish the car, claying is advisable. But if you are just planning to wax/ coat the car without compounding and polishing, then try not to clay.

For me, if I need to clay, I will polish after claying. If I don't need to polish, I won't clay. That's just me tongue.gif. That is why I prefer to apply sealant/wax by hand. Also claying normally only takes 10-15 minutes for me.

This post has been edited by gfwong: Jun 2 2017, 08:42 AM
gfwong
post Jun 2 2017, 01:47 PM

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QUOTE(douglas_tong @ Jun 2 2017, 10:43 AM)
Claying with a clay bar under 15 mins...
What you guys do it? With clay cloth it is faster...but knowing larry, he prefers clay bar.
Claying kerbau ?
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Lol claying kerbau as in mandi kerbau!
I just follow what Larry does. Rub rub until no more drag then move on to the next section. If there's dirt, fold and knead.
gfwong
post Jun 3 2017, 11:12 AM

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Just skip this Meg Headlight Protectant.
gfwong
post Jun 13 2017, 10:17 PM

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QUOTE(chongkiatz @ Jun 13 2017, 12:17 PM)
U guys buy very cheap eh, i searchin online all so exp, only osren offer me rm27 lol, so grab from him
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Try pharmacy. Some do sell IPA or rubbing alcohol


QUOTE(blurcase @ Jun 13 2017, 04:40 PM)
Hmm, I have never used it for killing bacteria or pests or odor, but apart from using it on cars, I use pure IPA for cleaning alot of light glue stains and stickers, cleaning thermal paste from CPU, cleaning ink marks, sometimes cleaning screens on phones and tablets before applying screen protector, etc.
*
Haha, I've been using IPA for lots of things too. I normally buy the 99.7% and dilute with water. From cars, aircons, my kids toys, glass, kitchen, phones. It's a good solvent that is not too harsh and it kills bacteria. Just don't inhale too much though. smile.gif
gfwong
post Jun 23 2017, 08:52 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 21 2017, 12:06 PM)
I have a lot of watermark on my windscreen as the car is parked outdoor. How can I remove them? Any recommended product or method?
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QUOTE(chongkiatz @ Jun 21 2017, 12:23 PM)
Check out this item I found on Lazada! Soft99 / Soft 99 Glass Stain Cleaner - Glass Refresh Oil Film /
Water Spots Remover - 80ml
http://www.lazada.com.my/soft99-soft-99-gl...l-26171599.html

This is a good product i used before, it better to apply ultra glaco soft99 after polish the windscreen

How to use to item? Just check out youtube there is a tutorial for their soft99 product
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Having used both Soft99 Glass Refresh and Autoglym Glass Polish, I would vote for Glass Refresh. It has better stain removal just by using hand compared to AGP using DA and it's non oil based so no IPA wipe down is required. And true to glass refresh claim, any stubborn oil, wax, fluorine will be cleaned off.
gfwong
post Jun 28 2017, 02:39 PM

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QUOTE(CAL V @ Jun 26 2017, 01:17 AM)
Hey guys, I have a question on washing microfiber cloth used to wipe off polish residue, wax and etc. What kind of detergent is suitable for washing?

I was at a point of almost pulling my hair out because no one seem to sell microfiber specific detergent for it and I couldn't find any "clear, perfume and softener free" detergent at hypermarket. I have a pile of mf cloth but idk what to do because I'm running out of them soon.

Any suggestion for locally available stuff that is suitable will be much welcomed. Thanks.
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I use dish detergent like Sunlight. It is strong enough o wash off wax and oils and it does not contain fabric softener that will cause static issue. Well, it is not fragrant free though. I think some time ago some members suggested using APC or OPC.
gfwong
post Jul 1 2017, 07:23 AM

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Month 2 update of sealants durability
http://carporchdetailer.blogspot.my/2017/0...est-update.html
gfwong
post Jul 6 2017, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(blurcase @ Jul 5 2017, 04:57 PM)
Check out gfwong's blog and wax review, might help:

http://carporchdetailer.blogspot.my/2017/0...est-update.html
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Thanks for bro blurcase for the promo tongue.gif

QUOTE(Clicko220 @ Jul 6 2017, 02:33 AM)
Right it could be without claying the last I used ulw. The current was clay and quik wax and lasts 1-2 weeks. Will be doing clay + fusso or clay + ulw next weekend.
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Some suggestion here. When using liquid wax/sealant, do give it a "really" good shake before applying. Some liquid wax tends to "separate" inside the bottle with heavier elements sinking down when left alone after some time. If they are not given a good shake, you could probably be applying just the wax solvent. I once kena that before a long time ago and had to hit myself on the head. I was waxing and noticed that the shade of the stuff that came out from the bottle keeps on darkening...
gfwong
post Jul 6 2017, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(Clicko220 @ Jul 6 2017, 10:56 AM)
tks bro gfwong your blog is awesome  rclxms.gif
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Thanks.

QUOTE(blurcase @ Jul 6 2017, 10:57 AM)
No worries bro, ur info is good for sharing. smile.gif

Agree with u on this, in fact for all liquid car detailing chemicals also should shake before use. I kena before with my wheel cleaner, using like normal then visit the shop I bought from and see why their liquid is darker color, went back and realise if I shake my bottle then color also come out same.
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Haha, we all learn from mistake thumbup.gif
gfwong
post Jul 19 2017, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(Clicko220 @ Jul 19 2017, 03:08 AM)
But 1min after application, it quickly turned hard already. So was my application too thick? How do you ensure thin application? I am using the Meguair's microfiber towel which I have used for few rounds of previous wax buffing. And very thin layer does last long as compared to thicker layer? Sorry asking noob questions.
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It is important to keep the application as thin as possible. Thick applications might be one of the cause for tough buffing. Also, the wax has to be dry. If it is still wet, then you are not buffing off but spreading a thicken wax. To determine if it is dry enough for buffing, do the finger swipe test. Use one finger to swipe on the hazed up wax. If it comes off easily then it is "ripe". Also, use a clean MF towel.

How long a wax last does not depends on how thick you apply. It depends on the surface preparation to ensure good bonding and the longevity of the wax itself to the environment.

This post has been edited by gfwong: Jul 19 2017, 09:58 AM
gfwong
post Jul 29 2017, 06:00 PM

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QUOTE(ksgill80 @ Jul 29 2017, 09:19 AM)
Hi all,

What is the best way to remove water marks from the car windows ? I have tried a few things for now like the window cleaners but no changes have been seen.

Do advise
*
Soft99 Glass Refresh might worked. I have tested it and I am quite impressed.
gfwong
post Jul 29 2017, 06:02 PM

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This a the month 3 update of my sealants comparison.
http://carporchdetailer.blogspot.my/2017/0...est-update.html

True to most of our concerns, there are water marks on Fusso section but not on others...

This post has been edited by gfwong: Jul 29 2017, 06:02 PM
gfwong
post Jul 30 2017, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(VeeJay @ Jul 30 2017, 12:06 AM)
Thanks for the review...I havent tried fusso...but was thinking might give it a try after seeing you first 2 reviews...but if its just 3 months under our weather condition, hence its pretty much whats I'm doing now..every 3-4 months, I clean it up , move hard stain and tar, polish and then wax, and maintain using quick wax every month once.

Thanks again...cheers
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Thanks for reading. With spray wax after every wash on any sealants, I think it might be possible to drag to 4-5 months. But if one is really particular a 3-4 months resealing should be good.
gfwong
post Jul 31 2017, 04:25 PM

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QUOTE(squallx840 @ Jul 31 2017, 03:33 PM)
Anyone has any recommendation for an acid based wheel cleaner? My wheels are already scratched up and I am planning to replace it probably next year.
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Autoglym Clean Wheels. I've checked the pH. It's acidic.
gfwong
post Aug 3 2017, 09:07 PM

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QUOTE(blurcase @ Aug 2 2017, 09:11 PM)
If u answered all the questions as yes, then u are in the correct forum, welcome to the club! smile.gif

Hmm, I would have to clarify first what coating is. Coating is generally a semi-permanent liquid that is applied onto your car and hardens into a thin layer of durable protection. It is also very hydrophobic in nature. Durability averages 2-5 years depending on how u care for your car.

To say that your car does not require polish after coating is not entirely true. While there is high chances are your car paint will remain in good condition, however your coating will not. Your paint may not scratch, but your coating will. Your paint will not have water spots, but your coating will.

The car wash recommendation regime doesnt change, which is weekly wash. Even though the dirt, grime and other stuff may not reach your paint, but if u let it sit and bake by the sun on your coating for too long (say 1 month or more), it will still eat your coating eventually. Even more so many ppl who have done coating complain of a very visible problem, which is water spots (especially dark cars). The other common issue that even coating has limitations to is bird poop. Bird poop can still eat through coating and reach the paint and deeper.

However, despite all the disadvantages I highlighted, u may ask why then so many detailing shops crazily advertise coating. The first advantage is that it will be easier to wash your car because the dirt and grime washes off much easier than compared to naked paint. To maintain the coating even longer, some use spray sealant/wax to topup as the sacrificial layer instead of the coating. So any contaminants sticks to the sealant/wax instead and gets washed off and coating stays clean and strong.

Why coating is generally charged expensive? Firstly, price of coating itself is expensive. 1 coating set costs on average RM300-700 depending on brand. Secondly, the preparation step is much more in depth. Good detailing shops generally will do very heavy compounding and polishing to ensure that 90%-99% of defects have been removed before applying coating. This is because if coating is applied with defect still exist and customer complains, then they have to compound just to remove the coating layer and re-work it again (waste of product). Thirdly, some items used for coating purposes are thrown away after use, such as applicator pads and 2-3 microfiber cloths, because residue product will harden on them and render them unsafe for future use.

Hope this answers some of your questions regarding coating. The decision whether to coat or not is entirely up to u. To everyone else, sorry for the long post.  sweat.gif
*
Very detailed explanation. Thanks bro.

gfwong
post Aug 6 2017, 01:34 PM

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An old post to perhaps cool everyone down. I believe there's no right or wrong way. Just a way that works best for you.

https://wetshine.net/2010/02/26/washing-wit...long-term-test/

This post has been edited by gfwong: Aug 6 2017, 01:35 PM
gfwong
post Aug 6 2017, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(douglas_tong @ Aug 6 2017, 02:24 PM)
i see sponge i scared, have you heard of the squeaking sound that sponge makes when it is glided across surfaces? scary lol... but i've been seeing people washing with sponges as well with no issue.

you should do one on shampoo and without shampoo on waxed surface so the argument can be concluded.
can't deny facts over opinions.
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I don't know man, I always wash with shampoo.
AFAIK, shampoo not only acts as lubrication. It lowers the surface tension of water (form five kimia) so that water would wet the surface more and become more miscible with oil, grime, and dirt to carry them away. Shampoo also have properties to encapsulate dirt and "suspending" them away from the surface to prevent scratches. This is one of the key properties especially in rinseless wash shampoo but I think exists in all shampoos. This is known as colloidal properties. Sightly advanced chemistry but Google shalt be thou teacher. tongue.gif

Being an avid follower of Larry Kossila, and based on my understanding of basic chemistry, I won't skip using shampoo. Being a technical guy by profession, I only work with data and understanding of basic principles. Using shampoo is my preference. I wouldn't say not using shampoo is wrong but it just scares the shit off me. So, there shall be no test from me.

Heck, there's even argument to not to use shampoo when washing our hair. Google and you'll find that there's also a 2 sided argument.

EDIT: Maybe read this for our hair: https://www.thehairpin.com/2014/01/what-ive...ithout-shampoo/

But baking soda add water is actually soap.
So it's home made shampoo.
https://www.quora.com/What-reaction-occurs-...g-soda-to-water

NaOH is alkali and soapy.

This post has been edited by gfwong: Aug 6 2017, 03:49 PM

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