Well planned out routine . Enjoy what suites you.

Sealants should last longer than wax but wax will give a deeper richer shine. For light coloured cars, sealant should be good enough. For affordable sealant, you can try Fusso 12 month wax. Just don't expect it to last 12 months in our weather though. Look for offers in Lazada.

As for spray wax, we can use them on any surface including rubber & plastic trim. That's the beauty

Happy detailing

Been eying for a leaf blower too. I saw one from Black & Decker but it's quite pricey.
I've also seen some wired cheap ones from Mr. DIY. Not sure if they are good or not.

Need someone to share some inputs.

My first attempt in durability comparison. I hope I would be able to conclude it.
Synthetic Waxes Durability Waxes

I am still a small fry and thinking of keeping things low-key . But I will consider your suggestion, bro. Thanks.

I think you can find grit guard on Lazada. Colander is not perfect but it works
I have never used PG QD before but I prefer to clay my car wet.

Update on Synthetic Waxes Durability Test Update: Week 2

This is a quick update on the initial post.

Note: Just for sharing and results are subjective based on personal observations.

I doubt the "wax" in the Meg Ultimate Wash & Wax is significant enough to do anything. I did a test on the wash before. See here. Even if it does, should it not "enhance" Meg Ultimate Paste Wax? Since they are both from the same range.


Not a straight forward answer but let me share what I think. Please bear with me.

If water beads up it shows that the surface is hydrophobic and because of the surface tension of water, it will not "wet" the surface and beads up. The general idea of a hydrophobic surface is that dirty liquid will not "wet" and smear all over the surface. But if those water droplets are left to stay till to dry (and with some dirt encapsulated in them), there could potentially be water mark. So I read.

IMHO sealants protects the paint by being a sacrificial barrier. It prevents dirt from sticking directly onto the paint. Be it hydrophobic or slick. So a slick surface that sheets away water and dirt is as good as a surface that beads water. It is just that a surface that beads water gives a Wow effect. And this is where the marketing gimmick works, I guess

This post has been edited by gfwong: May 2 2017, 08:14 AM

UQW is one of my favorite spray wax. An yes, those paste wax/ liquid wax takes forever to use up.

Comparing to Meg Ultimate Paste Wax, Fusso is not that hard to apply. Just make sure that only a thin layer is applied else it would be kinda hard to buff off like any other paste products. To use a DA and a finishing foam, just use a butter knife and spread it like butter on bread on the foam pad

Yeah, sealant(synthetic wax) has better durability over wax. But wax gives a much deeper, richer shine especially on darker paints. It is a normal practice to layer wax over sealant (after it has cured). Personally, I just wanted something that is durable to protect the paint. Not so much into deep shine. That's why I do not have any carnauba wax . It's all up to personal preferences.

This post has been edited by gfwong: May 3 2017, 01:03 PM

Yup, I have a Clover 15 mm. It's quite good. The vibration is less than Bosch GEX-125 (the only other power tool I have and can compare with ).

Agreed. AFAIK swirls/holograms are caused by improper use of rotary. DA should not be causing them. Unless if we are talking about removing "already induced swirls" rotary might have higher correction power than a DA and could remove them faster. But that is if you master handling rotary else you could be introducing more swirls. DA on the other hand is pretty fool-proof especially for home amateurs like myself. With the right compound and pads and a little time, DA should do quite a good job in correction. Again, look up for Larry from Ammo NYC videos on Youtube. His go-to correction tool is a Rupes 15mm with Meg 105 for cutting and Meg 205 for polishing.

My 2 sen on Honda paint.
For Honda paint on a DA, I would prefer go straight with Meg Ult Compound and skip Meg Ult Polish. Meg Ult polish tends to cake-up on Honda paint but Meg Ult compound will finish to a great shine. I would use LC green CCS pad to finish.

Meg ultimate compound can finish to a shine. It won't haze up then paint like traditional compound. I'm using lake country CCS pads. For force disc maybe others can advise.

I guess most DA are noisy

I normally wash in the morning and by the time I start polishing, it's mostly in the afternoon.

Okay, side track a bit. I frequently get this yellow roti canai dahl spots on my car. Now I know. They are bee poop!

https://youtu.be/rTDw7PJBSbM

This post has been edited by gfwong: May 5 2017, 07:54 AM

No sifu lah. We all friend friend share share same same
So now we know bees poop also
Our cars are actually toilets for the birds and the bees.

This post has been edited by gfwong: May 5 2017, 01:28 PM

Lol! Side track again. Someone managed to capture a bee pooping
https://youtu.be/njtnGFHtrhc

I hand wash MF towel and polishing pads with dish washing liquid. So far so good but a little labour intensive when I have a lot of towels, especially after waterless washing the car.

APC is a great idea. I'll try them next time for more stubborn stuff. But I do not dare to wash them in washing machine. My wife will kill me.

This post has been edited by gfwong: May 15 2017, 04:08 PM

1. Not affected by season. Buy as I need and buy as I want
2. DIYer here. I just do not trust most of the so-called self-proclaimed "professionals" in Malaysia.

Now that you brought it up, I haven't really notice tar on my car. If there are spots near the under side, they washed off quite easily.

This post has been edited by gfwong: May 23 2017, 04:02 PM