this. super affordable and pH neutral.

it is good for cars of any color but if you really insist of wanting a car shampoo for white colored cars only then you can consider this instead:-



BE MINDFUL though that this is over at the alkaline side which means it will strip whatever wax / LSP you have applied on your car - maybe not on the first wash but definitely visible on the 3rd/4th. the pros of having a car shampoo that is on either sides of the pH scale is that it gives the car a deep clean BUT like all things, you cannot gain something without losing something. the cons is that it may / may not hurt your clear coat.

if you have been doing weekly / fortnightly maintenance washes, a pH neutral shampoo is the way to go. if you are worried about stains (especially black streaks on your white car) then you can consider applying a layer of wax so whatever stains that you see sticks only on the layer of wax you have applied and can be washed off pretty easily due to the inherent hydrophobicity nature of the wax.

some of their products are not available to be mass purchased via their online store and this is one of it. you have to message them via their messenger on their website for it.

if it's a brand new car, chances are no contaminants have bonded yet to the paint which cannot be removed by normal washing. for starters, you may want to use something slightly on the alkaline scale of things (just to remove any excess oil etc as most SC likes to sent customer's cars for waxing before delivery).

unless you are familiar with using a claybar then i would advise against it because there's a high chance you will introduce scratches to your new car paint (if used improperly).

just run your fingers through the paintwork after a proper car wash, it should still feel slippery without any gritty feeling, a little gritty is acceptable but if you STILL want to use a claybar then get the softest one and use it together with lubricants.

of all the brands that i have tried, i recommend Magic 101's Wash & Wax, decent soap that won't break your wallet and easily purchasable too as they are widely available almost anywhere. this is only if you are not "particular".

while the advertisement says you technically can but i wouldn't recommend it. things that bond with metal does not bond well with plastics. also, not sure if the chemical composition will cause hazing on plastic so best to avoid it.

Cannot confirm exactly if the Wash & Wax is indeed pH neutral or not but from my experience so far, it appears to be because it does not seem to prematurely strip away the waxes that I applied on my cars. Car shampoo with "waxes" in it are usually pH neutral because waxes don't do well in solutions that are on either sides of the pH scale.

As far as the F7 coat is concern, you are actually required to reapply / top up every 3 to 4 months anyway so i wouldn't worried very much about that.

the ratio / dilution depends on the brand and your water bucket but generally, use the recommendation prescribed by the manufacturer and then you move on from there. what you should be aiming for is that when you do your contact wash, your wash mitt should glide through the surface without much resistance.

as for how to use the clay bar, you can refer to this youtuber detailier, he is quite thorough



there are alot of myths surrounding the usage of tire shines, some say they causes premature wear on the rubber and some say it protects. to me, there is no right / wrong and i use them because they make my tires look nice (make them appear thinner than they are). just avoid the ones that has high content of petroleum in them.

only use detailing products the way they are meant to be used and do not cross them - just like how one should not use body shampoo as facial wash. you technically can but you don't.

clay only if the paint feels gritty, polish only if the paint has ALOT of blemishes other than that, leave it alone. Apply the Fusso after a thorough car was, there is no need to wait for the existing coat to deteriorate completely, this acts like a "top up" and ensures that there is "no gap" in between applications.

depending on how severe the scratches are, you can actually consider DIY the fix yourself at a considerably much much cheaper price UNLESS of course the damage warrants a repaint of the entire rear panel. the product from Autospa is actually not too bad, i've tried it previously on my Tafetta White Accord and while it is not the best but at least it takes your mind off the scratches and prevents rust.

if you still prefer to have a workshop take care of it for you then you should consider from Honda itself or from the MyTukar panel (which the latter seems to be heavily promoted) recently but be prepared though cause they won't come cheap.

which "outlet" are you referring to?

is it (i) the outlet from the motor to the hose or (ii) the outlet at the end of the hose connecting to the sprayer?

specifics will help A LOT.

i think i saw a similar packaging over at Taobao sometime back - could be a product of one of those generic OEM manufacturers but if you love your car much to have given a thought to coat it, i would advise paying a little premium and look for a professional with warranties instead.

mine was bad.

it is heavy, lacks power and the duration of use per single charge is quite disappointing (only enough time to do 1 1/2 door panels). good if you only need to do a quick detailing on a particular part of the car but definitely not the whole car.

PLUS, it gives me the whole battery-anxiety experience because I cannot gauge exactly when it will die on me.

DISCLAIMER: could be due to the brand that I bought (some random China branded machine).

no need so extreme as to go and replace the whole door. scratches always tend to look more serious than they are. the "seriousness" will diminish few months later.

firstly, try running water over the scratch and see if the mark disappears and then reappear when the water stops. if it does then it is mostly good news as the "scratch" can simply be buffed off with some light hand polishing or even claying. the "scratch" should be removed right away but nothing can be done to the dink.

it it does not disappear/reappear like the above then the next step is to gauge how deep the scratch is by running the back of your fingernails gently through the scratch and if it does not cave in too much, a simple DIY can cover most of its tracks and take your mind off it. start by applying some light polishing to remove any contaminants (eg: paints etc.) that may have settled on it and then clean the polish off with IPA wipes. get a bottle of touch-up paint (i recommend Autospa - as they have most paint color codes) and DIY.

if the scratch feels "deep" then ascertain if the scratch has cut through all the way down to the metal sheet. you can still probably "fix" it using a touch-up paint but when metal is exposed to the elements, there is always a chance for rust to set in. some workshops can spot-paint a particular area but the end result is horrifying to look it so a whole door repaint is recommended.

feel the paint surface with your fingers to determine if they are rough to the touch. if yes then try first with a clay bar and after that feel again to see if they are smoother - most of the time (unless seriously neglected), a proper claying will prepare the surface sufficiently enough for you to apply LSP. if the paint surface still feel very rough to the touch after claying then your only alternative is to polish the car.

the Ultimate Compound is a form of polish, you need not remove any LSP prior thereto because the compound will remove it for you. after using the compound then you apply the LSP.

the Soft99's Glaco can be used for any type of wipers but some people have reported wipers "skipping", i have not encountered any so far.

as for the headlights, only DIY if you have done it before otherwise leave it to the professionals.

if you ran your car through a concrete pillar then it is almost certain that your car paint has been scraped off. there's basically nothing you can do to restore it but repainting.

It could but I don't think Felinomancy has PPF installed and majority of the people I know do not install PPF on the sides (only the front, due to budget constraints). PPF cannot prevent dings/dents left behind from such encounters though.

bumpers or other malleable plastic parts on the car usually end up with minimal harm because of its flexible nature but the same cannot be said on the other more rigid parts of the car (ie: metal panels).

if you pressed into a bumper, it will pop right out but if you pressed right into the side doors (for instance) then very likely you will be left with a permanent imprint.

try using Soft 99's Glaco Compound Roll, it should fix your problem.

Graphene coating is still a relatively new thing on the market and will likely costs more than a ceramic coating which does almost 90% of what a graphene coating could (if not the same). If you are on a budget, you should consider ceramic coating instead and that can be done professionally within the range of RM2,300.00 to RM2,800.00 (depends on how annoying you can get in haggling).

If you are in Klang Valley (Petaling), there's a place in Bandar Puteri Puchong that does a good job, not the best but cannot complain. They seem to have a business understanding with the Mazda dealer here as their place is always crowded with brand new CX5s.

in your case, no amount of claying in the world could restore your paintwork and the only thing that is left for you is a proper polishing work.

given the fact that you used a scouring pad to try and remove stains from your paintwork, i would highly advise for you to seek professional help in restoring your headlights. it is not something that you can learn and do perfectly on your first try.

what car shampoo you guys are currently using?

i finished my OSREN's Nano Wax and found out that they have already discontinued the product and only left with the Bubble & Wax which i find it much to be desired. i paired it with a foam lance (MJJC) and the Karcher K.2050 and it's watery and weak. at 1:9 dilution, it is practically unusable and is only passable at 1:4.

previously with the Nano Wax, 1:10 gives off a very thick and satisfying foamy sud. almost no way to get it with the Bubble & Wax - the only upside is that it's affordable.

try Soft 99 Glass Stain Cleaner and once you're done with it, coat it with their Glaco but not too thick cause it's known to cause wiper judder (can confirm).

the metal sheets on the car's body and the glass that forms the windscreen have different hardness so you cannot have one product that does it all. if there's one product that promises to do all then it's either a 100% scam product or a guarantee 100% chance to mar/scratch either one of the surfaces.

not sure why they discontinued their Nano Wash, really cannot brain

i did switched before to the small orifice outlet but it makes little to no difference.

sounds awfully similar to what i used to have on my Taffeta White Accord - no amount of washes can get rid of them but if you take a clay bar to it, you'll notice that they lift right off. i still cannot find the cause for it except to assume that it was the (coincidentally) Fusso Coat 12 Months Wax Light Color that i used and that the road grime somehow bonds to it.

other than that variable, i cannot think of anything else and unfortunately (or fortunately) i didn't kept that car long enough to ascertain whether it was the wax or not. however you can try for yourself and see.

if the stains can be removed via a claybar then you remove a small portion of it but enough to make 2 parts, one being the part without the wax and the other with the wax applied. leave it for 3 to 5 months and then see the difference.

the liquid should be some sort of cleaner (IPA or alkaline based solution) which generally would remove most stains but at the same time strip almost all LSP on car paints so if you pour water over the part that has been wiped, you should notice that water no longer beads and also it sheets on it.

with ceramic coatings now becoming very affordable, it is a good long term investment for your car. all other superficial claims aside but it definitely makes car washes a heck a lot less tedious.

not sure if you are using the same product as me but this is what i had:-



the most common one would be ceramic, there are some shops advertising "graphene" but it is uncommon and the difference in results between the former and the latter are arguable and the downside, you will be charged a premium for that with little to prove.