^why do u wanna close it in the first place?? why not add an 80mm fan there? or why not just leave it as it is?

if ur worried about dust coming in from the blowhole.. then just get some women's pantyhose, cut it up and cover the hole with it. itll act as a filter. but remember to clean it out once in a wihle

u obviously have not tried the delta FFBs

SLIGHTLY?????? SLIGHTLY??????

wah liao...

u OBVIOUSLY have not tried the Delta FFBs

60cfm vs 190cfm for the 120mm version

u think leh? slightly or not?

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Nov 21 2006, 10:55 AM

as far as i know there are NO commercial VRs/ fan controllers that are able to support the Delta FFB. u want one ur gonna have to DIY urself one that supports high amps.

what i did with mine was a 5v/12v switch. that worked rather well.. but then not all FFBs can run at 5v. out of the 4 units i have only 1 can run at 5v. the rest would just die. but they were all able to run at 7v though.

no idea about the dba or rpm or the cfm when its undervolted...but i find that the air pressure is still quite alright at 5v. u should try it at 5v and 7v... but IMHO if u wanna undervolt the FFBs then do it with a switch which is what i did... im not at home during the day so i leave it at 12v to really cool the processor during the hot day and in my hot + bad ventilation room. but when im around i let it run at 5v as its waaaaaaayyy quieter. the only thing bugging me at night when i wanna sleep would be the vantec spectrum 80mm fan in my case. that damn 80mm fan is way louder than the FFB at 5v.

dont think so... if u can find oso it might be for 12v/5v. might look something like this



if u want 7v just put the (+) wire into the yellow cable of the molex and (-) wire into the red cable of the molex.

not even at 7v? if yes was ur pc running when u tried it at 7v? if 5v cannot then i understand la..coz like i said..not all FFBs can run at 5v. but 7v should be ok wat.. only thing is ur PSU needs to have a load like the HDD or GC etc to be able to run at 7v. coz when i tested at 7v on my test PSU it dint move coz theres no load on the PSU but on my PSU which is in the PC it was ok.

u can also check with moderno or dinster...

i remember one of them was selling it.

in response to the bolded statement

im gonna quote something u said in the same post




fluorescent blue spray paint anyone? or theres another option to make it UV Blue...u can check out THIS THREAD to make it UV blue



This post has been edited by mADmAN: Nov 24 2006, 11:53 AM

the silenx fans has been around for quite some time... just that theyre not available here... so theyre not that known here.

u could try and search for some reviews...im sure therell be some.

did u plug it to ur mobo fan header or direct to molex?

1.8A is too high for thhe mobo fan headers. those headers should have fans NOT exceeding 0.8A else u run a risk of frying ur mobo.

if u wanna use the fan. plug direct to molex

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Dec 16 2006, 01:02 PM

if the fan is less than 0.8A then can plug into mobo.

anything more than better plug directly to PSU.

as for which one better generally?? i think direct to PSU... my guess is its lesser load on the mobo for other hardwares connected to it..the PSU should be able to handle the extra load. true or not dunno la...just the way i see things..

*all the fan headers on my mobo are filled up

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Dec 29 2006, 09:35 PM

@blackshirt
what fan u trying to control??? what brand and model and what specs?

u must have been using either the 80mm or 92mm fan... the 120mm is actually quite alright

no hardware RPM control...but there is RPM monitoring. u can control the RPM thru software. depending on whether or not ur software can support


the Vizo 120mm UV LED fans currently has the best ratio in my book.

if u read the post above urs, u would have seen the price was already stated

provided u connect the green ( theres only 1 ) and any of the black wires ur PSU shouldnt be fried. use some electrical tape or any tape to secure and isolate it. thats the method used to start a PSU without using a motherboard. of course when connecting the 2 cables together ensure that the PSU is unplugged otherwise u just might end up frying urself.

personally....i think the method below by deric88 would be the easiest

wahhahahahahah.....no u guys know the POWAAAAAHHH of the darkside!!! wakkakakaka


i used to run 1x80mm Delta FFB and 1x120mm Delta FFB in my case...even with my room door closed i can still hear my PC from downstairs...hehehhehe.

wat i did was i made a 12v/5v switch to help silence the fan when i need to sleep.... but when im fully awake...so are the fans

out of curiosity...have u guys tried running the windstorm on 5v? does it work?

for FFBs some do but most wont. my 80mm did...but the motor would be clicking away..... as for 120mm... i have 4 120mm FFBs and only 1 will work on 5v.

but on 7v...they ALL work.



edit by mod: sales content deleted.

This post has been edited by ianho: Feb 15 2007, 06:25 PM

agreed....the fan card is a real sick piece of work very nice

any advantage of using the HSF on the soundcard? i mean especially since ur card dont NEED it got any difference ah??? thinking of adding a heatsink to my A2ZS and Audigy 4 oso

DO NOT use ANY fan controllers for ur windstorm or FFBs... ESPECIALLY FFBs.. if u do that...u might as well just burn ur money with a lighter. much quicker and much less painless

not unless u make the fan controller urself and made sure it can support uber high amperes. and i dont think its easy to make what with sourcing for the parts and all.

currently there are NO fan controllers in the market that can officially support the high amperes of the FFBs such as the FFB1212EHE (3.0A). even the ones in sidewinder computers wont recommend it. most fan controllers are meant for normal fans.. those that are around 1.0A and below.

as for the switch...its very easy...i oso not engineering student and when i made the switches... i had ZERO soldering knowledge. i used these pictures as a guide for the switches.

12v / 5v Switch

12v / 7v Switch

there are more switch configurations but i wanted simple ones. if ur interested to find out... head on over to CLIFF'S FANBUS which is where i got those pictures.

EDIT: forgot to mention.... the SPDT switch in the picture.. its basically and on-off-on switch. which is what i asked for when i went to the electronics shop

also forgot to mention that before u start making the switch, better make sure that ur fan can start from standstill at 5v. and check if it can start at standstill at 7v as well. so that u can know how low u want the fan to go and which one would actually work for u

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Feb 16 2007, 02:13 AM

it is known that thermaltake has a tendency of bullshitting with their cfm/dba rates.

@cablesguy
i think that delta is the fan that comes with the stock heatsink for AMD64 s754 n s939. it does look like it