U can use ACID...

It'll work!!!

But it won't just remove the oxide layer, it'll even eat some of the aluminium...

what type of acid can be use,low or intermediate concentrated?

can use the high concentrated acid?

I don't think that Alcohol will eat the core, anyone can explain this further?

**Beside, if alcholol can eat the core, then that means Arctic Cleaner is dangerous liao...

Hey, i'm just joking la...
Don't use acid, it'll eat the heatsink liao...

Just use arctic cleaner to remove the oxide...
Maybe it'll work...

Or why don't u do some simple lapping to remove the oxide?

kinda lazy even to do simple lapping.

btw,if we take out the proc from the mobo and we want to clean the upper surface using arctic cleaner or something else,then suddenly the cleaner flow at the bottom surface (pin area).is it will damage the processor?is electrostatic will occur there?

i think most of silver based thermal paste do need some sink in / blended / cured time as heats will tend to break the thermal paste particles slowly and thus will provide better heat absorption between the contact area..to this statement just the arctic silver do make it as an official info from their website..

but in some cases...there's no significant changes in futher / additional dropping of temperature after the cured times here....just have the normal dropping of 2c-5c there only so the curing effect will be quite a subjective thing...

i'f i'm not mistaken it's 200 hours of usage then the thermal paste will make the breaktrough of optimum performance..


if the paste become 'keras' @ 'kotoron degil' then the best way is by exchange it with another one if u bought if 1st time become lidat...as i dun know any right solvent that can disintegrate the thermal paste molecules without effecting the performance of it later..

best way is...after u used the STG-1...please do close the bottle lid tightly to avoid it being exposed to air that tend to give the keras effect later after some time..

guys...if u still remember the old days liquid paper do comes with similar bottle and brush like being used in STG-1...u'll know what happen if u dun close the bottle lid for some time..then the liquid paper will become like jelly a like and then will keras if exposed for longer period..

i believe this is just pretty the same to STG-1 handling...close it after u used it

normal ceramique based thermal paste (white one) is not purely conductive as silver based materials (AS5, STG-1)

so dun worry much lah bro...just clean it off...then wait a bit..put it back on!

thanx for the informations...

bro,how long do u think that the paste will become keras?
as we see that liquid paper will turn keras just short period of time.
one situation,im busy applying new paste.my hand was full and unable to put the cap of the bottle back.is it the paste will suddenly keras?

just curious if this situation happen

Nope, I dont


Nope. This is due to aluminium's high reactivity compared to copper. They're world's apart indeed (those who study chemistry knw dis well)


Chemically but not feasible unless u hav own lab w/ safety equipments, necessary apparatus so on.

Dilute sol (2M) of Sodium Hydroxide is normally used to clean aluminium & acetic acid for copper

Yup, Aluminium is on the high end of the reactive elements list, any higher, you wouldn't be able to even hold it without having something nasty happen (its used in some fireworks, FYI). On the other hand copper is on the opposite end (only gold and silver are lower). However most of us think its the other way round because aluminum forms a THIN protective layer of oxide while copper will usually keep forming an ever thicker layer of oxide, this most of us cooling freaks have clearly seen. Aluminuim oxide is unique in the sense it prevents further oxidation (think of it as instant ultra-thin laquer, and I mean ULTRA thin), cleaning it off will just encourage it to form another

About the liquid metal, it dissolves certain metals, just like water dissolves sugar. Seems in this case aluminium is our unlucky victim, not so sure about other metals. If you're crazy about the best cooling but can't get this stuff you can get then go use mercury from a thermometer (very similar, including the dissolving certain metals part).

Read this article on how 'effective' themal compound actually reduces temperatures
http://www.overclockers.com/articles662/
I'll elaborate further after some of you have read it.

One of the things that DOES have an effect is lapping an uneven IHS flat. Removing it will only noticably help if the IHS has poor contact with the CPU die (in the case of some Athlon64s), besides that its a pretty big risk. Socket 775 procs have the IHS SOLDERED on (yes, thats right) and I can say offhand that the solder will have better thermal conductivity than ANY thermal compound commonly found in the market, so stick with lapping. The finish of the lap job is not so important, but the flatness makes a big difference.

For those of you who still insist on removing a LGA775 IHS despite the insane risk,
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/402/1/
http://forums.legitreviews.com/about6779.html
http://www.digg.com/hardware/Removing_an_I...a_Propane_Torch
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showth...ght=ihs+removal

You will also need to mod the mobo so your cooler can contact the now exposed die
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=115252

This post has been edited by lohwenli: Nov 28 2006, 08:40 AM

it'll not simply will keras if leave it for few minutes...

if u leave it for longer period like half / full day then the keras'ness' will possibly happen..

please do use some common sense and ur nature observation bro...

tumpang post, the alcohol that u guys mean is the one that used for cleaning the old cassete player (brown bottle and yellow labeling) right? or those used for cleaning off paint from the floor and so on.

Yerp, that's the one...

that alcohol wont eat plastic..
the one that eat plastic is errrmm..what do we call that?
argh damn it i forgot its name..

it ate the acrylic side panel of my beloved centurion5.
now using a replacement acrylic side panel..

u dont need that long to let it dry
since u r not using a water-dripping-wet cloth to clean it...
just put it under normal ceiling fan for around 1 hour is surely dry already...

so meaning the as5 will basically shock the core of the gc??

that would be acetone
will fog up acrylic board
scar remote control plastic
smell sweet
evaporates fast
leave the plastic area a whitish layer

another is methyl-ethyl-ketones(MEK)
-basicaly paint stripper
give you high and plus headaches
feel burns like h3ll when splashes to wound/eye/groin area
bitter to taste

the next will be
Styrene monomer(SM)
melts(really dilutes) acrylics, ps, pvac, and much much more
smell wonderful
but to much will kick you back of the head
like wasabi
watery like
burns when contact with wet/sweaty skins
so washing late will induce a fire-ly sensation

the best would be
ethyl-alcohol(ethanol) or methyl-alcohol(methanol)
but prefer ethyl kind
since can add to beverage to get drunk

(disclaimer: done at your own risk, any death resulting from stupid acts is becos of own stupidity)

better dont use acetone to wipe the core..
but i think i hv done tht b4...

i too use acetone to clean the core
no problem
just splashed some on remote cotrol
and all white white

OMG seems dangerous .... anyhow using alcohol that used for cleaning tape will do just fine...

of course professional way is to use Artic Cleaner....

anyhow don't be to worry as the core is well sealed shouldn't be too much of problem ...