That's why combining investment and insurance can be confusing. Consider this, imagine half the money you spent is for the 'investment' portion and half is for the 'insurance' portion. Suddenly your investment returns look much better right (at least better than FD). That's closer to what's happening, cannot just calculate based on money in and returns, because FD or investments won't pay out lump sum to you in event of disaster or illness.

Only you can calculate whether your plan worth keeping. Why so arbitrary saying 'break even' when, if your other investments are really better performing you could be better off cancelling immediately? Sunk cost fallacy?

And how much money will you be throwing at them in these 4 years in order to avoid your 'actual lost'? If RMX, then you're spending RMX to earn 6k in these 4 years.

If ROI is really worse than your 'other investments', those other investments would make you more than 6k in these 4 years (with RMX going there rather than to your insurance). If they cant the this investment/insurrance not so bad right? But there's no reason to keep for 4 years just to chase your arbitrary concept of "no loss" which is actually loss of interest cumulated.

And how much money will you be throwing at them in these 4 years in order to avoid your 'actual lost'? If RMX, then you're spending RMX to earn 6k in these 4 years.

If ROI is really worse than your 'other investments', those other investments would make you more than 6k in these 4 years (with RMX going there rather than to your insurance). If they cant the this investment/insurrance not so bad right? But there's no reason to keep for 4 years just to chase your arbitrary concept of "no loss" which is actually loss of interest cumulated.

of course agent will convince u not to surrender. but come to think of it, u mentioned that when u start that time u know little about financial planning and u were just a dota boy (maybe some dota boys are good in financial planning). now, u know what suits u and what not. so as long as u know what u r doing and have a better understanding in other investment vehicle and can commit to save and earn from there, then i believe u can make better decision now compared to last time
check your projection table from ur policy contract. we cannot decide for you. you know what's the best for yourself now.

GIP is especially good for those have no discipline in saving and spending.

By getting this plan, you are "forced" to save the money (premium paid), and you get certain amount of money each year which you can spend/use or whatever.

It also can be useful tool to distribute wealth to children or next in kin, by distributing certain amount of money each year,  instead of giving big lump sum in one shot, that may not good for them if suddenly big lump sum amount which they can spend on.

It is a financial planning tool, the purpose is not primary for wealth creation.

You can apply and wait for the offer letter then make your decision. The decision to cover or not depends on the underwriting department. You never know.

There is no hard and fast rule how many months your credit card should be charged. Request for monthly payment then, usually the company will charge 2 months premium in the first payment.

You need to declare your past medical history during the application. Wait for the deferment letter and see what needs to be done or if your existing report can be used.

If at the end, you are not satisfied with the terms provided by the insurance company you can choose to decline the offer. You will then receive your refund minus some expenses (medical check up fee and etc) if incurred.

u should upgrade

1) I believe that would be your "capital" plus penalty should you surrender early
2) please refer to the non guarantee section of your surrender value. Again this is a projection it could differ but the guarantee portion will be guaranteed. So to speak.
3) You sure this is an investment plan? Seems more like a saving plan to me
4) What was your intention when you signed up? Investment or saving?
6) If you can comfortably save the amount then there is no point surrendering it.

A successful saving plan is not because of the RM40 you earn interest on but the fact that you actually saved RM1000. If you are saving only 10% of your annual income into these saving plan I would say that's quite manageable however if you are saving 50% of your income here... then that might be a problem for your financial growth.

Best,
Jiansheng

1) Basic Cash Value is when you surrender, that's the minimum you will get. There's also the dividends, which are not guaranteed.
2) Minimum 39550. If you wait long enough and get the cash payment, another 2000. (there might be some pro-rate if you pay in monthly mode, etc, or deduct some in return, but this is the general idea)

+ you may get dividends projected at additional 15k to 20k (the 61k and 56k is inclusive of the 39k and 2k mentioned above).

3) Cause you get back the RM2000. you need to take into account the RM2000 that you get back

4) the later you surrender, the bigger quantum of money you lose. but if you continue to keep the money with AIA, you are projected to get 400k when you are 88.
5) so based on my calculation of 5915.5 for 10 years, and getting back that 400k when you are 88, plus the in between the 2k you get every year, your return is about 4.6%. Refer attachment.
6) depends. you need to do a cost-benefit analysis. My advice is your analysis, should take a greater focus on what you can do with the money now.
(but in a nut shell, if you bought this policy for 9 years already, of course, just pay the final year, keep it until you are 88, but if just bought for 1 year, then you want better returns, i think plenty out there)

1. That's the guaranteed cash value you're getting, for the full lump sum you'll have to look at the total surrender value

2. Look at the year 33 surrender value

3. How much return are you expecting when you're just pumping in money for the next 10 years only instead of whole life?

4. The returns is definitely higher than FD in the long run as it offers insurance protection which FD doesn't and you are able to nominate that money to someone compared to FD which will be frozen upon death and you're able to claim income tax rebate which FD doesn't

5. No you should not surrender the policy

Rumors from other insurance agent?

These kind of plan is where you put in your surplus money aside a.k.a diversification.

Don't mix it up with your other bulk of money as "investment"

Please make up ur mind that Savings is putting aside the money for low risk investments

Whereas investment is where you put your money into high risk investments to get higher return.

Savings is something you can fall back on in the event you lose all your investment.

Have a sound financial planning for yourself rather than just thinking about "I just want high return investments". Never put all your money into one basket.