any chance you pumping BHP? coz i know i pump BHP at Kuchai Lama always trip, pump shell no issue.

The regulator is sold separately. Just to go any spare parts shop and ask them for windscreen sealant. It should be between RM10 ~ RM20 and what you'll get is a roll of black sticky stuff.

I don't know anything about a bracket, but my last memory of the power window assembly is it's motor + regulator only. My problem was with the motor. The speaker should be mounted on the door, not on the door panel, so taking the door panel off shouldn't affect it. The connection to the driver side console can easily be plugged out after you remove the door panel. You can also remove it first by removing its screw and then prying/pulling it out of its slot. Finally, you just need to slide the door panel upwards off the door lock at an angle.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 19 2016, 09:13 PM

hi, you mention the bracket is metal, is it like this?

http://akubiomed.com/diy-proton-gen2-power-window-regulator/

the main part is metal but the rolling part is plastic, i suspect might be bracket problem because i can wind down but up halfway & above doesn't go, then finally manage to close it closes real hard.

i found the regulator but only 1 link the picture can't really tell how it looks like looks totally different from the one in the blog, is it compatible for both Left & Right?:

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/int...or-bracket.html

if just the regulator broke is it possible to remove the original regulator from the Motor and use the 3rd party bracket?



This post has been edited by advocado: Jan 19 2016, 09:24 PM

That is the window regulator for the rear windows. Unless they changed it, the front should be the scissors type, like this:

yea the link i posted shows front type, but the roller Official & Non-Official both uses plastic parts? so if regulator broke can just remove the original from the original motor and install new?

now problem is i dunno is motor or regulator problem.

I'm not very clear about the rear window regulator. I think for some batch they were using scissors style window regulators as well for the rear, before it became the one with the plastic. If you want to know, just remove your door panel and you should be able to see the window regulator. The job of removing the door panel is really easy. 5 screws, pry it off, and remove the connection for the driver console.

Edit: I don't remember if the rollers on the scissors type regulator are plastics or metal.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 19 2016, 09:35 PM

hi, can you tell me the approx locations of the 5 screws for driver door?

the front regulator you showed, all parts are metal except the rollers right coz the reflection i can't see the big gear like plate.

also people mention Bracket, is it same as Regulator, or is it another part because i tried google power window bracket can't find a result.

I'm not sure about what bracket they are talking about.

The location of the 5 screws:
a) 2 securing the door handle cover
b) 1 securing the driver console
c) 1 towards the side mirror
d) 1 at the side of the door panel beside the door lock

are they hidden with covers or exposed?

thx btw.

All exposed

Tried BHP, Petronas, Shell, Petron... All the same....

You planning to DIY it?
I notice you mentioned BHP Kuchai Lama. If you're reside nearby, I intro you to one of the workshop at Happy Garden.

well if it's only 5 screws i plan on opening up the panel to check which part is faulty whether it's motor or regulator, coz i send to workshop they might not have the parts in stock too. i check not many online sellers selling Motor and also Regulator, chances are they are 3rd party, i don't know if they can last longer than original Proton or not because original Proton roller is plastic.

i can go Happy Garden which shop and how much do they charge for parts & labor?

just want to ask if anyone has a persona h-line (2011-2012?) owner's manual that they want to sell?

i bought the car used and the original owner lost the book 4 yold 40k km! waddya guys think

1 year 10k+, consider low mileage for me?

that's low. mine also 4 years, approaching 90k

Yeah. Very low. Bought from used car dealer or direct from ex owner?

The manual is not very useful. The persona isn't very well equipped anyway. I think you'll only need the spec page, auto cruise page, and the alarm page.

IceBikers

I've got a few questions about the wheel bearing noise you experienced previously after changing. Does the noise appear after a while of driving and when you go below 40Km/H, or it appears immediately when you start moving then disappears after a certain speed? Also, does after some time of driving at over 120Km/H causes the noise to be louder when the car slows to below 40KM/H?

I'm started to get pissed off at the new wheel bearings. I never expect to have such a problem and now it's so loud that it's audible even with the windows all closed fully. I'm currently facing "eeee and chi chi chi" sound, in addition to the initial wheeee sound when moving from a standstill.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jan 22 2016, 11:35 PM

Anyone try the Century Din55 wet battery here? How's the feedback? Better than MF or vice versa?
Today only I notice Century have wet & Maintenance free for Din55R.

bought direct

if not useful, anyone wants to sell to me? anyone anyone??? im the kind of person who likes complete documentation