im doing round island yesterday at penang,
since i saw tern has been mention. this is my friend x10 (upgrade to 20speed) and my p9 (also upgrade to 20speed with 451 wheelset



and guess what, when i measure the weight, mine are even lighter and cheaper after the modification done

Hi guys, need some advice.

I'm thinking to get an extra bike.
Struggling between a Dahon eezz D3 or a Tern Verge N8.

Initially was only eezz but the offer on the verge are too tempting.

Only thing now i cant test ride a 16" bike.

The main usage of this bike will be mixed transport commuting. with lrt or bus so the 3 speed not really a problem for me.

Anyone try this eezz before? what's your opinion about this bike?
Can push around when it's fold? Cant find any shop that have a ready stock to try.

I was once a fixed gear rider so I think it should be good enough for my daily commuting. Even when I go around with my RB and 7 speed foldie I also stay at a gear most of the time.

Anyway thanks for the advise. Now I can't wait for my new bike   

Better check if your Tern has a RD hanger    I have modded a few of them and as I recalled those days when they use Neo Rd, the bike don't have RD hangers. You need to buy the RD hanger adapters and I don't know if they still produce these hangers as Terns have also stopped using Neos already. All the newer generation Tern bikes comes with hangers already.

The blardy kit cost SGD70 and the local importer didn't bring in last time and I am not sure if they bring in already    There is a cheaper alternative but it breaks easily when your bike falls down and when the RD hits the ground, the first thing to break is the adapter hanger! The original kit is off course more hardy.

I think you should go ahead and mod it because if you mod it, you will get a better drivetrains than the stock that d16 gives. If you get that adapter and put in a Sora chainring (off course better if you can afford a Tiagra but Tiagra is expensive now!  ). Then again Sora is still a hollowtech crank. At least it is lighter and more fluid than the square taper that original equipment provides. Yes, Sora is 9 sped but it will work with 10 speed chain and 10 speed cassette.  A Tiagra RD and a pair of Tiagra shifters plus cassette off course.

Even the 2 x 9 speed Sora is better than the stock drivetrain that Tern D16 comes equipped with. Compared with this,

Shifter(s): Shimano trigger, 8 spd  Non series Shimano
Front Derailleur: Microshift, forged aluminium, chain catcher Non Shimano
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Claris entry level 8 speeder
Crankset: Cold-forged 6061 aluminum crank arms, hand-polished Non Series
Cassette/Freewheel: Sunrace 8 spd., 11-30T low budgetted cassette
Bottom Bracket: Cartridge, sealed bearings heavy square taper BB, some even called it a Legacy BB
Chain: KMC 8spd., narrow

I rather mod my bike with better groupset 

Bro, better upgrade to 10 speed terus! I got quoted rm590 9 speed and rm610 for 10 speed..(cassette,deore rd, deore shifters, chains,installation and tuning)..since it was only rm30 in difference, it was really an easy decision!..

Fd bracket is only rm50.
Claris fd can use back.

If you want to maintain using 9 speed, that your budget is much cheaper.

A bike's drivetrain works in tandem with many parts of the bike's moving parts and the number of bearings in a comprlete bike is numerous, the BB, the hubs, pedals, the RD cage rollers. It all makes the bike easier to pedal when the bearings are smooth. Although many are sceptical when comes to the effectiveness of these advantages, they do help in some ways. A little here and a little there will make a bigger help on the whole.

While some are not so critical some are. In the case of the hollowtech crank, the biggest advantage is the weight. Imagine you turning a big wheel made of rock and also turning a wheel made of fibreglass, which is easier to turn. Off course it is the lighter one, right? Same principle. That's why a roadbike weighing 8 kgs is so much faster on the road compared to a 12 kgs foldies eventhough the wheels of the foldies are smaller and easier to pedal. But weight to us is not so critical as we don't ride competitively but not to the extent of weighing 30 to 50 percent more.

It all comes to priority. Weight is expensive in cycling. A kilo lighter may cost over thousands  So, priority is the keyword. Off course if you can afford, get the lightest. 

Secondly, the hollowtech bearings have less tolerance making it more precision. This makes the bearings more lasting. I have taken out many square tapered BB and most of them are loose although the bearings are fine. In hollowtech the spindle of the crank is fixed directly to the cranks while in square taper, the spindle is incorporated with the BB itself. The spindle is solid metal making it heavy while hollowtech's is hollow, hence the term hollowtech. The hollowtech's BB seals are also better and more dust and mud resistant and this makes them last longer.

Finally, this is my own experience though. The square taper needs a torque wrench to bolt the crank on and most of time, we all don't use it as not all have a torque wrench. Even if a bike shop have it, they don't use it either    We all depend on guessing the torque or as hard as our hands can exert when bolting on. This makes the tapering on the cranks widens. So, the next time you change a BB, it don't really fit and bolting, it seems OK. Then during a ride, when it loosens a bit (it will, it always does) we hear the irritating .....creak...creak....creak 

I doubt the short cage can go 32T rear. Optimally, the limit is only 28T . What are the symptoms, did the twist shifter go all the way till the last setting? Or it just stopped at 8th? If this is the case then the limit screw needs to be loosen a turn or two at the RD. The SRAM Attack shifters are Shimano compatible, that's a fact, so no issues there.

Most likely is the limiter screws at the RD. Loosen the screw no 2 a turn and see. If cannot another turn until it can shift. Be careful ! Not too much, if too much, the chain will fall over the cogs and get jam in with the spokes! Also apart from the 2 screws, there is another tension screw (single one only). Screw this till maximum as you want the top pulley to be as far away from the cassette because you are not only maximizing but over maxing the reach of the RD.

Fuhhh!! Super nice. It is suitable for a man that weight around 80-110kg?