Permanent solution. Watch a few clips on Youtube on it and try it yourself. It is actually quite easy. Some LBS don't charge if you got the bike from them, some charge you 30 bucks just to twiddle a few rounds on the barrel adjuster, some loosen the cable and redo again when actually it is not needed and some just DON"T want to touch your bike 

Unless you crashed and your RD hanger is bent or RD is bent, it is easy to calibrate.

Here's a simple guide,

01. )  release all tension on the shifter, the right side.  Twist the barrel adjuster fully in and then loosen 3 rounds back.

02. )  release the gear cable on the rear RD. No need to take the cable out unless changing cable. Now shift the shifter and check if the cable is moving smoothly. Then move back to
        the lowest and pull the cable out again from the rear end. If it feels stuck, pull out the whole casing and lube the cable.

03. )  look from the rear and see if the RD cage pulleys are inline with the smallest cog of the cassette. Turn the crank forward and backwards and the chain should be smooth. If not,
        adjust the limit screw till it cranks smoothly.

04. )  NOW THIS IS WHAT I USUALLY DO !
        Pull the cable taughtly without pulling the RD cage moving and screw the cable tight. Sometimes the cables are not release from the housing and will only tighten when you shift.
        If it loosens meaning not all cable are pulled out, repeat procedure again. HERE's THE IMPORTANT PART !
        Without shifting, turn the barrel adjuster tighter at the shifter or RD if you are still using old model RD. Tighten the barrel adjuster while cranking until the chain moves to the
        second cog. When it does, loosen it slowly again until it falls back to the smallest cog. Once it does stop here. This is just the precise moment when a one level shift will change to
        the next gear almost immediately. Shift one level up and see and then down back. If it doesn't go down, you need to loosen the barrel adjuster till it comes down.
        This is for the lower part.

05. )  Now the higher ranges. Shift up to the highest and even at the highest (let's say 9th level )  pull the shifter more even at the last setting. If the chain falls off, means you need to
        adjust the limit screw so it won't fall of into the spokes even after pulling more at the highest level. If at 8th level but it won't shift to 9th level, you need to loosen the limit screw
        (usually a turn or two only) until it will shift to 9th level. Once it does shifts, still pull the shifter and see if the chain falls off into the spokes. If not then it's OK.

06. )  Usually once you get all the above, near the mid level at 5th or 6th level, it doesn't really shift well, especially with cheaper RDs or cheaper cassettes, or even an old chain.You
        need to adjust the barrel adjuster  slightly at this level. But if you don't mind, you can't stop at that and if it doesn't shift, a slight pull again (not to the next click) on the shifter
        will shift the chain.

Give it a try, after all if you can't do it, you still have to send to LBS. But I am sure you can do it if you follow the above step by step procedure. The FD is basically the same. Just understand the theory of the system. It's just pull and release the strong spring load of the derailleurs.