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 Folding Bicycles v5 - Not only Folding Bikes, Folding bicycle discussion

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KenC
post Jul 9 2017, 06:18 AM

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How did you teach your children to ride a bicycle? Should be an interesting.
Jay Chua CC
post Jul 9 2017, 02:06 PM

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Selling my mint raleigh ugo with freebies and upgraded parts.
http://bicyclebuysell.com/item/409996/rale...-upgraded-parts
chanti-sama
post Jul 9 2017, 05:26 PM

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Hi all sifu,

It took whole weekend, end up still need go bike shop to help fix up the bike. Alot of mismatch stuff like 74mm fork trying to fit a 100mm rim, they have to use a jack to open it up abit. Also the mind boggling rear brakes, cannot use 105 and rear v-brake. End up using a generic cbrake, i took ur advice etigge and got the extend waiting for it to ship. Would like to standardize the 105 calipers anyways. Here the bike fully assembled.

user posted image
KenC
post Jul 9 2017, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 9 2017, 05:26 PM)
Hi all sifu,

It took whole weekend, end up still need go bike shop to help fix up the bikec. Alot of mismatch stuff like 74mm fork trying to fit a 100mm rim, they have to use a jack to open it up abit. Also the mind boggling rear brakes, cannot use 105 and rear v-brake. End up using a generic cbrake, i took ur advice etigge and got the extend waiting for it to ship. Would like to standardize the 105 calipers anyways. Here the bike fully assembled.

user posted image
*
105 brake is short reach brake…it's not the standardised as you and your bisikal shop think. There are more bicycle type than just racing bike.
You ever measured the distance between the v-brake posts to the wheel rim? Why you buy 100mm hub?
Your fork is aluminum or steel fork? AL fork cannot force open wan… it will fail sooner or later without warning, hopefully not during high speed downhill on a corner…
Flat bar brake lever with caliper brake… later guarantee you complain brake x makan, ppl will con you into buying expensive ultegra c-brake but the real problem is mismatch brake lever… and matching chap ayam will work multitudes better than wrong ultegra so do your own research thoroughly.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jul 9 2017, 08:29 PM
chanti-sama
post Jul 9 2017, 09:16 PM

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Ahh ic... Means need more research on the matching brakes. My thinking just simple match by numbers enough adi. I mean how complicated it can be? Lol
KenC
post Jul 9 2017, 09:28 PM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 9 2017, 09:16 PM)
Ahh ic...  Means need more research on the matching brakes. My thinking just simple match by numbers enough adi. I mean how complicated it can be? Lol
*
It's really easy. Less than 500parts including number of ball bearings.
Unlike everything else under the sun, bicycle makers devoted their life into ensuring things doesn't fit together .

It's not like download an app it will work. U need to measure them physically because the bike maker and tyre makers love to lie with their numbers.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jul 9 2017, 10:00 PM
etigge
post Jul 10 2017, 07:19 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 9 2017, 05:26 PM)
Hi all sifu,

It took whole weekend, end up still need go bike shop to help fix up the bike. Alot of mismatch stuff like 74mm fork trying to fit a 100mm rim, they have to use a jack to open it up abit. Also the mind boggling rear brakes, cannot use 105 and rear v-brake. End up using a generic cbrake, i took ur advice etigge and got the extend waiting for it to ship. Would like to standardize the 105 calipers anyways. Here the bike fully assembled.

user posted image
*
user posted image

Seen above is a picture of my wife with her velo. She using a V-brake levers (Avids) coupled with the Ultegra C-brakes that is part of her Ultegra groupset. She's been riding it on the slopes of Genting Perez, Fraser's Hill and just a few days ago, the multi dragonsbacks of Kuala Tahan. No issues on the bike's braking ability.

The issue here, mostly from the internet, I doubt the last commenter had actually had hands on experience with the actual situation, is that in roadbikes the brake shoes are very near the rims and a slight pull from their brifters will stop or slow down the bikes and if we apply this on flat bar levers, the reach is too far away from our fingers. Some V-brake levers do have an adjustment to bring the levers nearer to your fingers but this is still not enough. Also, a slight pull (too slight actually) will bring the brake shoes stopping the rims. What you can do is actually adjust the C-brake calipers's brake shoe a bit further from the rims , so when you pull the levers it has the feel and distance of a regular V-brakes.

Or there's the lever for taking out wheels, you can adjust that levers to suit your preference on how hard and far you want to brake levers to feel, especially the modulation.

I have to agree on widening the forks to accommodate the 100mm hubs but it's OK if the forks are steel but if it's aluminum, it's a bit dangerous. You can't blame the fork maker because all Dahons or FnHons for that matter are standardised 74mm. There are many fellas selling just the front hubs in BBS. It depends on how many holes your rims has though. Most 74mm front hubs are 20 holes.
KenC
post Jul 10 2017, 08:03 AM

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Been through countless hair pulling rides over mismatched brake and brake lever. In my strongest believe, any vehicle must stop when the operator demands it. It must be done right. It only take one disobedience brake to incur fatal accident.
Take your chances you may wish but make sure you don't come after me with a liability suit.

*PS, AVID and TEKTRO and many others do make long pull and short pull flatbar lever, just make sure you pick the right one.

*PS, any steel is safe for expending fork and rear hub opening, from 50mm to 150mm oso perfectly safe. Carbon, aluminum, titanium or magnesium or other metal can not. I donno about bamboo so I won't speculate.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jul 10 2017, 08:19 AM
fatani
post Jul 10 2017, 08:49 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 9 2017, 04:26 PM)
Hi all sifu,

It took whole weekend, end up still need go bike shop to help fix up the bike. Alot of mismatch stuff like 74mm fork trying to fit a 100mm rim, they have to use a jack to open it up abit. Also the mind boggling rear brakes, cannot use 105 and rear v-brake. End up using a generic cbrake, i took ur advice etigge and got the extend waiting for it to ship. Would like to standardize the 105 calipers anyways. Here the bike fully assembled.

*
WTH? oh my.. shocking.gif
chanti-sama
post Jul 10 2017, 09:19 AM

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I want to ask... Been doing some quick google, seems like most compatible fork with 100mm opening is disc brakes type. Can the wheels be mounted? Basically still trying to use back the caliper brakes.
KenC
post Jul 10 2017, 10:06 AM

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74mm hub only RM 60 cam get...
https://bicyclebuysell.com/item/311012/kene...bearing-freepos
KenC
post Jul 10 2017, 10:08 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 10 2017, 09:19 AM)
I want to ask... Been doing some quick google, seems like most compatible fork with 100mm opening is disc brakes type. Can the wheels be mounted? Basically still trying to use back the caliper brakes.
*
If your fork is aluminum or carbon or titanium… consider write off liao… kesian
I hope you don't sell it to unsuspicious buyer and endanger their life… I tell you to save your skin so don't bring bad karma to me by endangering others.

Where you look and what did you look for? MTB?

This post has been edited by KenC: Jul 10 2017, 10:12 AM
chanti-sama
post Jul 10 2017, 10:30 AM

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Im more concern of the fork not suddenly breaking when im riding it. Im not sure replacing a 74mm *hub* will give me more headache or finding a compatible fork with 100mm opening. Seems like finding the fork is the easier option, I saw how a wheel is built, think there is crazy amount of work.

*added the word - hub

This post has been edited by chanti-sama: Jul 10 2017, 10:36 AM
fatani
post Jul 10 2017, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 10 2017, 08:19 AM)
I want to ask... Been doing some quick google, seems like most compatible fork with 100mm opening is disc brakes type. Can the wheels be mounted? Basically still trying to use back the caliper brakes.
*
if it's alloy, just as ken mentioned, that fork has to go. u either buy the 74mm front hub, or, if it were me, i'd get a new 74mm hub wheelset, sell the current one and a buy new fork.

100mm hub, not necessarily for dis brake. u can use normal c brake, as long as the rims have the surface to grip it. I myself using tiagra c brake on my 100mm hub wheelset. Many uses it with no problem. some use ultegra, oso no prob. maybe u should take a look at the brake pad oso if it's not grippy enough.

This post has been edited by fatani: Jul 10 2017, 10:38 AM
chanti-sama
post Jul 10 2017, 10:36 AM

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QUOTE(fatani @ Jul 10 2017, 10:31 AM)
if it's alloy, just as ken mentioned, that fork has to go. u either buy the 74mm front hub, or, if it were me, i'd get a new 74mm hub wheelset, sell the current one and a buy new fork.
*
Change fork and wheelset...? ai meh? keep wheelset change fork can? sweat.gif
fatani
post Jul 10 2017, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 10 2017, 09:36 AM)
Change fork and wheelset...? ai meh? keep wheelset change fork can? sweat.gif
*
if you can source one that is compatible, why not..
fatani
post Jul 10 2017, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(KenC @ Jul 7 2017, 11:36 PM)
Thin tire roll faster is a myth from the 70's… so outdated…just like what they say soy oil is healthier than palm oil in the 80s and yet today all fast-food restaurant uses palm oil to replace soy oil because FDA say soy oil is dangerous hydrogenated oil while palm oil is healthy semi-saturated fat.yes FDA ban soy oil.
You would most likely to pump your 1-1/8 to 100psi or more to ensure the tire doesn't bottom out and cause snake bite punture. because of narrower tire, the shape of the contact patch will be elongated, high pressure is very bumpy. I pump my 1-3/8 to 75psi, because its around 22% wider and taller, can go with lower pressure without bottoming up, also, the patch is more rounded and bigger air volume (air cushion) hence it is much more comfortable. Yet still roll fast.
There are many forces acting on the tire, the 2 significant one which we can make a difference through tire selection are one the aforementioned friction force and deformation loss
Deformation force
You want supple tire (tire with thin side wall), i.e. less energy lost through tire deformation when conforming to irregular road surfaces not how narrow the tire that makes the tire fast. Eg. My becha tire is stiff and hard, the rolling resistance is high, replace it with a same size supple tire, the rolling resistance improvement is day and night. It just happened that wide tires are always stiffer than narrow one, so the misconception of narrow tire are easier to pedal and faster.
It's the friction patch size that determine how much friction(anti-rolling force). When you have high pressure, your contact patch is smaller, when you lower the tire pressure, your contact patch gets bigger…
So a fatter tire with wider rim , yes, rim width also affect air volume, more volume = more cushion = more comfy. Doesn't always man slower.
That also explains why really fast tires are very soft and therefore wear out a lot faster. And less punture resistance.

*PS supple tires are tire with really thin side wall, so thin it freak me out.
*
er, were you replying to my post bro ken?
QUOTE(fatani @ Jul 7 2017, 02:32 PM)
tyre?

1 1/8 lighter and easier to pedal. but i used panaracer, low rolling resistant tyre.
*
well if it is, anything wrong with my sharing? good info btw. the 'bunga' on our tyres oso contribute to it as well. but, theories aside, 1.75, 1 3/8, 1 1/8, i do feel the difference, in terms of pedalling. let's say, we take mtb tyre for example. 2.10, 2.2 and the thinner slick mtb tyres. im sure those who pedal it out can tell difference on which one is easier on their legs.

sure, fatter tyre doesnt always mean slower. that always depends on your leg. thumbup.gif
KenC
post Jul 10 2017, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(fatani @ Jul 10 2017, 10:58 AM)
er, were you replying to my post bro ken?

well if it is, anything wrong with my sharing? good info btw. the 'bunga' on our tyres oso contribute to it as well. but, theories aside, 1.75, 1 3/8, 1 1/8, i do feel the difference, in terms of pedalling. let's say, we take mtb tyre for example. 2.10, 2.2 and the thinner slick mtb tyres. im sure those who pedal it out can tell difference on which one is easier on their legs.

sure, fatter tyre doesnt always mean slower. that always depends on your leg.  thumbup.gif
*
Since we talk about tire… so I merepek a bit lor wink.gif

Effect of bunga is obvious, so didn't go into that.

Sure different width tire rides differently. All can explain by contact patch size and shape, suppleness of tire and pressure of tire.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jul 10 2017, 11:29 AM
KenC
post Jul 10 2017, 11:19 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 10 2017, 10:36 AM)
Change fork and wheelset...? ai meh? keep wheelset change fork can? sweat.gif
*
There are more than 1 way to skin a cat.
It's all up to you, it's just bicycle after all… not complicated at all, just leceh no thanks to bike makers. Try to build a safe bike for road use la… road is a dangerous place.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jul 10 2017, 11:37 AM
etigge
post Jul 10 2017, 02:55 PM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 10 2017, 10:36 AM)
Change fork and wheelset...? ai meh? keep wheelset change fork can? sweat.gif
*
No need to go hysterical. tongue.gif If you are happy with the width extension now, I mean no problems, it's OK and use it. We don't really use our bikes as hard as other countries rider does. To find the fork is harder because of the tread in the steerer tube and the exact shorter length of the Dahon type forks.

When I first got my Dahon Eco C7 , there was no quick release. So, I wanted the LBS to convert a quick release. As you know Dahon has 74mm hub width. But all the shaft (need one with a hole for the QC skeweres to go through) they have is for 100mm. SO what they did rclxub.gif , they also widen my fork and added spacers to accommodate the shaft. I was there looking at what they did cry.gif I used it for a while and when I ordered new hubs (a few months later actually), it was 74mm front hubs. So, I used a bare shaft, with extra bolts. Measure the center with a bolt and started to wrench the bolts to clamp the forks back in again. Initially when you get to the desired width, it will bounce wider a bit again and you have to do multiple times till it sticks to the width you want. The Dahon Eco C7 was an aluminum frame so they paired with steel forks.

Last word is, it's a folding bike not a BMX where you go jumping off tables and rails. It should be fine. If it is going to fail, you can see cracks at the welding joints on the fork. Also, 100mm is only another 13mm (a finger's width) pull on a side. Have you check what kind of steel is it, aluminum or steel ? I didn't see any mention of it.

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