i can slide with 1/10..
any 1/10 drifter here?

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Added on September 28, 2008, 10:22 pmhere is my car..









(modifying the bodyshell)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiYu8VTIzk0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2Kk7H8GE-Q



This post has been edited by denieru: Sep 28 2008, 10:22 PM

lol..sry to say that its all the same car..lol
the car in the vid is polycarbonate(ori)
the other is plastic one(the fake QD control car for RM69.90)

only 45mins? my 5000mah 30c can last almost an hour. maybe my track is smaller?

im not sure about motor price. as for the battery check if your esc can support lipo or not. i got my lipo (5000mah 30c) from lelong.com.my and it only cost me RM117 included shipping to sarawak. look for jtyeap88 from lelong. trusted and fast seller.

hey guys, i think i've posted in this forum long time ago... i cant really remember. anyway, wanna share my car with you all. comments and critics are welcome

from this,


to this,


using this body,


then change to this,



sprayed the same body with rubine red just few weeks ago. didnt take any photo of the car before turning it into a hellaflush subaru.

here is the hellaflushed impreza


my brother did the same to his evo


sticker bombed it, *bad quality stickers as i printed it out myself



a photo from yesterday's drifting competition. today is the final but too bad i have no transport to go and watch

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Added on October 16, 2011, 5:09 pmI'll recommend Vantex T2 (design copied Xray T2) and Vantex 416/HL518 (both are same cars. design copied tamiya 416). T2 and 416/518 are both great cars. very popular now as they are cheap and parts widely available. You can get those cars as RTR set from lelong.com.my for about rm350+-. But dont forget, you need a front-one-way to ease your drifting. and also, a locked rear diff for more drift angle. ohh and also a high capacity battery to play longer! as for beginner, CS setup is too hard... even for myself

This post has been edited by denieru: Oct 16 2011, 05:11 PM

Hellaflush <3 more stickers to come!

@ torobo,

its a real rust actually. so quite dirty if you touch it first spray a coat of silver to replicate bare metal color if you want. but for me, i used black cos i dont have ready paint for silver let it dry. after that spray a layer of clear coat and pour metal powder on it. let the clear coat dry then wet it and leave overnight. tadaaa rusty hood
*you can also use normal glue (what school student always use) but its easier to come off.
*get your metal powder from workshops. the more halus the better. mine very rough if view upclose.
*cellotape the place where you dont want it to rust. its hard to remove the rust stain afterwards if you miss this step.


yeap, it was a gp car. modded to ep because i dont have the $$ for new car

1) take engine, pipe, fuel tank and other unnecessary stuff out of the chassis (brakes, throttle servo mount and blablabla)
2) take your 1st and 2nd gear out, leaving the housing without gear.
3) look for suitable spur gear. drill it if u need to make it fit and screw down to the 2nd gear housing.
4) for my model, i just have to adjust my clutch for it to fulltime makan the gear housing. think of other way if urs is different.
4) find one place where you can screw down your custom motor mount.
5) using a piece of metal, design your motor mount. cut and drill to make it fit and hold down your motor.
6) find suitable place for your electronics. battery mount also have to be custom made.
7) put everything together and pray for goodluck on your first run

the picture below still with the old gear design. i'm using the design stated above. no picture yet.









This post has been edited by denieru: Oct 30 2011, 02:15 PM

took me few days. time mostly spent on figuring out how to place the motor

i use pliers to clip it in. kampung style ftw!

trust your friend, you need a front one way to drift properly. without it, you'll keep understeering. front one way act as handbrake like in real car. you use handbrake to enter the corner and start drifting right? its the same principle here, you brake and only your rear wheels will lock thus 'throwing' your rear end sideways

anyway, i read that someone is looking for chassis? a clone ota r31 kit only cost rm200-300. but it didnt come with front one way (not sure whether did it come with rear lock and cs thou). or you can start slow, get a Xray T2 clone. upgrade front one way and cs 1.3 max! anymore higher and your car will spiiiiiiiiiiiiiin cos the steering angle is just toooo little to pull your front end.

btw, clone is not as weak as you think. i've been playing clone car for quite sometime now.. until recently changed to a *not recommended for drifting* car and clone is cheap compared to the original one. you can buy few chassis for the parts and its still cheaper than ONE original chassis. another thing is that, drifting mostly done in slow speed. even if you crash, there wont be much damage/impact done to your car

I'm a user of FS-GT3B. The functions and range is good. But it drains lot of power and its response are just so so. The steering wheel and the way you grip the remote is not really comfortable. I've tried Sanwa M11 and Futaba 3pk, both gave me wayyy faster response and feel wayyy more comfortable. The only drawback is the price. lol! thats why i'm only using GT3B right now

What I know is your rear must be higher than your front so all the weight are on your front end about the actual mm, im not really sure.

sensored 10.5T and gearing tune for touring on road. you'll have the torque for rally/drift and the power for 100km/h. well hope im not wrong with this

oh i forgot bout MT4. thanks for mentioning it! i have friends using it and i can see they are very happy with it btw, how about Sanwa MX3? I see them alot during my touring era but i dont really see them now in drift gatherings or competitions.

im out of cash and looking for something to sell what rc thing is the most laris one in malaysia market? lol! *except for car chassis, bodyshell and brushless*

start a business actually. been selling tyres and servos but not much untung.

only left with two analog servo.

-Turnigy TGY-S4505B RM60 include shipping
-HK15138 (replica of Futaba S3003) RM40 include shipping

I myself using the Turnigy one and im quite satisfied with it. only that its not digital

*doing surveys lol* anyone need little parts like nuts. screws, ball links, body clips, servo horn or connector?

sold few in mudah and local forums. tried rctech but no luck cos the price there is very competitive and mostly branded and cheap item

ohokay

battery could be too powerful. 60c its easier to control if you use 30C and below (recommended 20C, tapi ikut suka driverlah) and the price for 60C is much more expensive.

I'll just tell you what i learnt from sifus..

Let mAH=litre of water, C=pipe size, battery used=5000mAH 20C and 5000mAH 60C.

Compare a 5000L tank with 2" diameter pipe and another with 6" diameter pipe. When same quantity of water (5000L) flow through both pipe, the 2" pipe will let water out at slower speed and can last longer. As for the 6" pipe, the water will flow in huge quantity and only last for awhile

Conclusion: 5000mAH 20C give less power (small quantity of water flow) but last longer than 60C. 60C give more power (large quantity water flow) but drain faster than 20C (water flow faster and also finish faster).

*remember change the water to electricity
*hope this explaination help cos sometimes i dont know what i typed also

This post has been edited by denieru: Dec 29 2011, 01:57 AM

pasang sendiri baru ada feel kalau dapat berfungsi dengan baik, "fuyohhh syoknya kereta yang saya pasang ni"

open the 4 screws holding your shock tower. pry out your camber turnbuckle on the bulkhead using plier or screwdriver. open the 4 screws that screwed to the lower bulkhead. now your upper bulkhead and differentials should be out easily. there should be 3 screws holding the pulley to the differentials. open it up, screw your pulley to your new one way (remember to check which side the front one way is acting. when you brake, the front should move freely). lubricate your one way and put the cup joint into the one way. put everything back to your car and youre ready to vrommmmm bangg banng banng vrommmm pushhh vrommmm pushhhh