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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha modelling thread V37, Ver Revive

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SUSadvocado
post Sep 29 2015, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Sep 29 2015, 10:37 AM)
I only can answer you based on others reviews, its best among RE100 the only downside is it doesn't have inner frame...

also consider its simple build compare to mg lineup, pretty much you can build it within 30mins...

also if you do airbrush, consider this is a fairly good choice... (i think the straight build color separation a bit plain)
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need lots of masking?
SUSadvocado
post Sep 29 2015, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(xein @ Sep 29 2015, 11:45 AM)
Just by a drink every 1 or 2 hours you are there.
That kind of place is not suited for solo build.
Go there as a group. Chat, discuss and build over a drink.
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i wouldn't mix food & drink on the same table with gunplas. too much dust & particles & probably nubs flying around.
SUSadvocado
post Sep 30 2015, 11:58 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Sep 30 2015, 11:08 PM)
wao just 2 weeks, must be more than 4 hours per day, last time i build pg strike took me more than 2 weeks everyday build it after working hours...

with pg unicorn for 2 weeks considered very good already...
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what would the outcome look like if you use MGM Chrome powder on Gloss Yellow or metallic Gold base?

also when you rub the powder on gloss black, is it possible to maintain the black chrome effect you get when you 1st rub them on, or will further touching/handling the surface turn them into chrome? what if you apply gloss coat or future floor when it's still black chrome? i don't know how the black magic powder can turn into chrome.
SUSadvocado
post Oct 1 2015, 08:45 AM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Oct 1 2015, 12:34 AM)
both gloss yellow and gold base will not give a superb chrome metallic effect, without a top coat these powder might rub off if you repeatedly touches the surface leaving patches of uneven chrome effect. so unless after you apply the powder and store it as display else top coat it is recommended.

but speaking of top coating it is a bit tricky, these powder tends to float even with the slightest thinnest layer, so there is a way of so called dry spray which most likely only air brush can do. just adjust to the lowest paint output and spray it.

my mini compressor cant maintain a steady pressured outflow so tends to fail from time to time...

so to keep it simple, this chrome powder is nothing but just super fine metallic powder that when you rub them on your glossy black surface, they will filled up all the tiny rough surfaces that eye cant see but felt like its not "shiny". so the mirror like chrome effect is nothing but super smooth surface (try imagine mirror like ice the smoother the surface the more mirror effect you will get)
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so is it possible not to rub the powder until it's chrome and maintain the chrome black look?
SUSadvocado
post Oct 5 2015, 11:22 PM

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any quicker way to remove nub marks?

Just the SD Super Gundam mkII already took me 3.5 hours just to do so:

1.Remove parts from runners with cutter.
2.Remove remaining nubs from parts & scratch mold lines with hobby knife.
3.Sand nubs marks with 600 sand paper
4.Sand nub marks with 1000 sand paper
5.Wash every part

In the end some nub marks still not fully remove maybe i use 600 but if lower might just damage the parts.

If just doing 1 robot still ok but i try to do as many as i can so i can spray the same colors all at once since spraying separate session waste alot of time & paint.


SUSadvocado
post Oct 6 2015, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(Stifler the Stifmeister @ Oct 6 2015, 10:05 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

1.Remove parts from runners with cutter.
2.Cut remaining nubs smaller & scratch mold lines with hobby knife.
3.USE FILE TO FILE OFF THE SMALL NUB MARK.
4.Sand nubs marks with 600 -> 1000 -> 1200 sand paper
5.WHEN FINISH SANDING WITH SANDPAPER, THE SURFACE WILL BE LIKE BLUR AND FULL OF SCRATCH MARKS, USE FEMALE NAIL FILE POLISHER TO POLISHER THE PARTS.
6.Wash every part (with water + toothbrush / just use your fingers)
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how long it takes to remove the nub with the file?

and how long usually it takes for you to finish sanding a SD kit?

do you need to polish with nail polisher since marks will be covered by primer.
SUSadvocado
post Oct 6 2015, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Oct 6 2015, 11:29 AM)
unsure bout others but hg took me around 30mins to 2 hours depends on how big and complex of the hg build

sd should be around just below 1 hour depends on which era of sd, older tends to be faster coz simpler
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Assuming standard SD kit has 50 parts, each part has 3 nubs, so total is 150 nubs. Based on Gundam Generation F SDs.

If you can complete it within 1 hour, that means you can complete 1 nubs every 24 seconds, even at 30 seconds that is really quick.

we talking about cutting, trim, file x1.

assume it takes 3 seconds to cut 1 nub, you are left with 27 seconds to trim & file each nub. that's just fast.
SUSadvocado
post Oct 6 2015, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(Snake'eyes @ Oct 6 2015, 03:23 PM)
get a RED Nipper that can reduce x3 times the speed for clearing nubs
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my nipper is green bought from mr.diy, it has sharp head so can reach small areas, guess i should have gone with the normal flathead nipper with red rubber grips...
SUSadvocado
post Oct 6 2015, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(Snake'eyes @ Oct 6 2015, 03:23 PM)
get a RED Nipper that can reduce x3 times the speed for clearing nubs
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also does it need to have an antenna?
SUSadvocado
post Oct 6 2015, 09:35 PM

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QUOTE(TheAdmiral @ Oct 6 2015, 08:07 PM)
the 1st one.

2nd form is after an upgrade during jaburo

3rd form the manga hasnt reach there yet (the english one anyway, the japanese one has long completed) but its near the end b4 a baoa qu
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in the comic they've never mention much about changes on the Gundam. they might talk about upgrades but i've read every page i never noticed the difference other than weapon loadouts. i guess you need to be a scholar to notice these minor differences. also the comic focus more on back stories than actual fights. most fight ended very quick.
SUSadvocado
post Oct 7 2015, 01:27 PM

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QUOTE(carpathia @ Oct 7 2015, 11:50 AM)
anyone knows if Meijin is coming to Malaysia in Nov ?

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this one is which generation?
SUSadvocado
post Oct 7 2015, 10:16 PM

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anyone familiar with Dioramas? wonder how they make all the sand/dust stick so they won't fall out? or they actually fall out?
SUSadvocado
post Oct 8 2015, 12:32 PM

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QUOTE(IsaacLiew52 @ Oct 8 2015, 12:28 PM)
this the trouble that got me headache, beciz I love the original shinning paint. The metallic is a bit dark compared to the original version. Btw, is there any other shining gold marker or paint?
ok thanks for the suggestion, going to try it soon. Hope it's works
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show us a pic before sanding.
SUSadvocado
post Oct 9 2015, 12:32 PM

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QUOTE(yijinchua @ Oct 8 2015, 01:50 PM)
wow... tis didnt bore me at all to be honest. A lot of good information ^^ Well, even though I would like to get a big compressor, there are 3 things restricting me from getting them.
1) Room space, my room now is jam packed there's no place for me to put such a hugh compressor in my room right now.
2) Budget, I'm currently a student and have no income other than allowances from my parents (not really that much) so can't reli spend so much. sad.gif
3) Interest, I have never ever airbrushed so I still don't know whether I would like it yet. So, spending so much on something that i'm still unsure of is kinda risky.
But thanks for the advice. Glad to hear that the TK96 would be ok. Otw to buy it now
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my compressor is AC168, it's size of a small MG Gundam box, it can do more than 25psi and comes with a pressure regulator + water/dust filter & comes with auto cut once pressure reach the setting. but can be noisy tak tak tak tak if you plan to use it at night.

http://cnriptide.diytrade.com/sdp/427171/4...sor_AC-168.html

i use Sparmax dual action 0.3D airbrush that can be bought around rm200++ from Hobbysearch.

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/search?typ1_c=10...archkey=sparmax

you buy those cheap compact compressor you cannot run it for too long it will overheat, those tiny motor also won't last as long.

you buy those cheap China airbrush, anytime the trigger spring can break. mine break just after using 3 sessions. if want buy at least buy a decent one.

This post has been edited by advocado: Oct 9 2015, 12:35 PM
SUSadvocado
post Oct 9 2015, 12:39 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Oct 9 2015, 12:51 AM)
Actually that's not the case unless you have used epoxy type of top coat else the rest of the paint no matter acrylic or lacquer can be clean by soaking overnight, downside of doing that you might need to replace all the rubber o rings. But if you remain cleaning the airbrush everytime you change paint type or color you should be ok. General purpose thinner should be ok, I have been using all the while and it's cheap.

For the record, I purchase my mini compressor and air brush set for around rm180. You can skip the carrying bag, you can take mine if you want.
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don't really need to soak overnight... just wipe the paint cup as clean as you can after washing with thinner and keep the airbrush spraying until it's clean, soak up any remnants at bottom of cup & spray thinner again and dip the head into a cup of thinner to clean the tip.
SUSadvocado
post Oct 9 2015, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Oct 8 2015, 02:12 PM)
ohh then would be quite big problem for you, let me elaborate...

air brushing paints will have acrylic, enamel and lacquer, for acrylic might suitable for you coz no strong smell and basically less hazardous for the last 2 you might need some air ventilation going to avoid being screwed by your roomies and also some paint mask to avoid health issues.

the problem for acrylic is this, its quite expensive and come in small amount, might need others help to get cheaper source option like industrial grade acrylics like recently just found my replacement mgm top coat from a car paint supplier with many times cheaper.
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pic of your cheaper industrial grade acrylic to coat. comes with special thinner? price?
SUSadvocado
post Oct 11 2015, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Oct 10 2015, 04:29 PM)
How bout full armor zz gundam that brick sure gets attention no matter where u put it!
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FA ZZ that hand cannon is really tempting, but we all know ZZ gonna come up with 2.0 soon.

IMO if you want to collect 1 line, Z is the best, they have most of the AEUG suits in MG form. The titan suits are just too complex with those MAs.
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post Oct 11 2015, 11:24 AM

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QUOTE(heally82 @ Oct 11 2015, 11:19 AM)
Personally I think sentinel version of Fazz looks better the the ori flag color scheme Fazz, even if Fazz goin 2.0 pretty sure you're gonna spend loads because Fazz sentinel color scheme goin to be p bandai based on bandai behavior...

Really looking forward on how they goin to improve the kit! Even better maybe there will be a tryon mg?
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most of us don't care about Sentinel, it's just a color difference and some minor difference, which doesn't really matter.
SUSadvocado
post Oct 17 2015, 11:26 PM

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has Bandai improved their nub marks on kits compared to earlier MGs? or still the same?

I think if Bandai figure out people can complete a kit much faster if they implement hidden nubs they can actually sell more kits than they currently can because when people complete their kits faster they'll proceed to buy more kits, since sanding takes so much time & effort, it actually can encourage more people in since straight built will look better with hidden nubs.
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post Oct 19 2015, 04:05 PM

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I'm having paint crack problem.

1st time i use Nippon Pylox spray cans Matte White. It's Lacquer based.

I almost used up the 1st can so i got a 2nd can, i did 2 coats on the old can, then few hours i spray another coat with the new can, after 3 minutes i notice the areas especially flat & corners have lots of crack, the cracked lines seems have no paint at all on the surface.

I had the same problem before because i sprayed an acrylic layer then lacquer i though it's the problem, but this time it's fresh Lacquer over Lacquer and same issue happened.

Anyone know the cause? The crack is all over the place but somehow small parts are not effected, only parts with deep corners & flat surface suffer.

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