having problem with my airbrush, not sure if it's stucked or the paint incompatible.

Trying to use Gaia note Clear Black on Sparmax 0.3D airbrush, the paint have difficulty coming out despite using mr.color thinner, when it comes out clear black become light grey, i have no idea what is happening.

I then swap the paint out with thinner and the thinner comes out, changed to water water comes out, i haven't tried mr.hobby acrylic which had no problem previously but i'm wondering is my airbrush stucked or is the paint incompatible? like particle too thick for the brush?

I bought a couple of Gaia notes paints, would be a waste if it's incompatible. also i notice Gaia note paints dry up too fast for brush use.

Gaia Clear Black 5, Mr.Hobby Levelling Thinner 10. It felt like the paint couldn't come out at all, when 1st come out like burst, spray on surface looks like rough textured light grey, tuned pressure between 10-20psi, then changed it out not add thinner, same thing, then i just fill the rest with cleaning thinner which sprayed well on it's own, same thing, i'm not sure if it's the Gaia note particle too big or what. never had such problem with mr.Hobby acrylic.

the only other Gaia i have used is their Gold, using brush & thinner, very fast dry up need to be very quick to get smooth glossy look. i though oil based suppose to dry slower. but no idea what's going on with my airbrush.

This post has been edited by advocado: Aug 29 2015, 08:16 PM

spraying too thick will also make it worse.

what is V fin?

don't see any yellow part other than the antennas, what's missing?

looks better with the single fin, like crossbone. since ver.ka is not accurate at all, doesn't really matter.

dunno what's the big deal with all these ver.ka. overrated.

then lose the v fin, looks better without it.

all i know about ver.ka is they all covered with decals. til the point i don't get the purpose of decals. it's like those robots are for exhibition shows instead of war machines.

not sure the major difference other than armor can be opened up like unicorn, but other ver. ka main difference are the decals, they take away too much attention that actual difference in design & proportions makes very little difference.

i'm not really sure if Fighter Jets are full of decals, yes they have few big logos to indicate their squad & jet number, but i don't think they put so much decals on them, unless it's airshow craft. ver.ka purposely overdo it. that is the problem with Gundam Fix. it has nice sculpt good paint but too much decals.

not a big fan of the Unicorn New Type technology. i don't know what purpose those green/red lights actually serve other than telling others hey it activated it's newtype abilities and when it's red oh no it's gone berserk.

the matte coating on camos does help lower light reflections in space.

Sparmax 0.3D & 0.5D double action, get both under rm500 at Hobbysearch.

SD Zeta

anywhere got sell MG Mega Bazooka Launcher cheap? i forgot to place order now price gone up from rm155 to rm170 already...

i don't see the problem with Hyaku Shiki Kai, it's quite popular rare gem, even though it was not in any of the cartoons, like Hi-Nu, Nightangle, Ex-S and many other models.

maybe it was in one of those SD Gundam series who knows.

should have bought the Zeta & Nu double pack as it's cheaper and comes with extra translucent decals, not chrome decals.

should buy Metal Composite kai. those SD kits can easily shipped from Japan at very low cost. SAL 1 full box maybe 1500yen. those big & heavy item more worth buying if you bring back yourself.

are 1/100 or 1/144 decals compatible with standard SD kits?

where can get MG Build Burning Gundam? 1/144 too small.

Nightangle rm27x at BJT Hobby Shop.

BTW saw people playing Gundam Battle on a big table with paper buildings, how it works? Something like SRW?

i don't know about D&D, is it like SRW on dice? does the quality of the gunpla affect the HP/DF/EN?