I'm resisting the urge to get a 290X or 970 so I can max out games in 1080p
Currently using a 280X
Hopefully can resist till Pascal

ur savage 4 still considered power bro its 32mb and its on AGP bus, mine was still PCI @8MB frame buffer and its a 3d only card need a dedicated 2d card to make it work those were the days , my favourite was always NFS SE

280x still more than capable at 1080P

How your pCars bro? Still broken?
Saw a couple of guys complaining, one guy posted turning off detailed grass fixed the problem.

ooh ya ka, its grass all over my screen ur right, i have not tried it yet thanks for the info

WHERE? WHERE? link plz...

Can't find it man...buried to deep inside the fb group...

Found it...and it is sold...

This post has been edited by faidz85: Jul 23 2015, 01:45 PM

Anyone has experience with Powercolor cards? Hows their reliability?

void the waranty is fun job
remove 4 screws

remove the four screws of the spring holding the cooler on the die,

They have used one way slotted screws to hold the cover on top of the pump and some triangle shaped ones .The security screws on the bottom plate of the R9 Fury X consist of four one way slotted screws and a few 1.5 mm triangle shaped ones

So here is what’s inside as can you see they have soldered the PCB with the electronics directly onto the motor. The labels indicate a I²C communication to the main PCB and also some alert output for whatever purpose, what you don’t see yet is the flex electronics which goes down to the copper cooling plate – I suspect some sort of additional temperature sensor, and I have no idea why they would bother doing that – except maybe the temperature everyone is reading isn’t actually the core but only the copper plate, that would make the temperatures look much better than they are.R9 Fury X – below the cover is a simple white pcb soldered to the motor

Next up is of course getting out those triangle screws to see what the cooler looks from the inside. But wait, there is still water in the system. So first I have to get that out – trying to remove a tube without destroying it proved to be a fruitless effort, so I cut one near the radiator. A neon colored liquid came out of it – surely no simple water. Actually if you do some research, the R9 Fury X user guide from AMD suggests that it is some sort of „a mixture of monoethylene glycol / ethanediol“. Well I won’t drink it and you also shouldn’t get it on your hands either. A note maybe, the bowl I used is a very old one has chipped off at some places, the liquid is (as it should be) clear and nice.

Okay now with a 1.5mm triangle bit and a lot of pressure (yet again) I was able to remove all of the screws (I felt a bit proud). Out comes this:The cooling plate of the R9 Fury X with very thin fins

The bottom side of the pump used on the R9 Fury X.. left in all the sealing rubbers. One is as expected a square one around the whole block. The other one covers the top of the fins, so that the water has to go through the fins and can’t take the easy way out. The slot in the middle is where the water is pressed in and the small rectangle at the bottom is where the water leaves the pump block. You can also see the flex PCB, which I suspect to be a temperature sensor. I haven’t found any way to open up the block any further – I have no idea what they have done, maybe it is welded together. To complete the tear down I tried to get the PCB off of the top side. This turned out to be a bad idea (I think). After using a hot air gun and some force with the screw driver the PCB came off – in a bad way. Seems like the motor got so hot that in the end I pulled the contacts out of the motor and not out of the PCB.

The motor below the top PCB.. So what’s there to see? , the winding is loosely put into a hole which is then filled with some sort of glueish stuff to hold the winding in place. Failing to do so reliably which is also a cause for the noise and whining people are hearing from their pumps. Anyways I probably just have killed my pump.

What’s the PCB looking like? Not much to see on the bottom. You can see the pins I pulled from the motor, and the mounting of the flex PCB – there is also an IC under that black blob where the flex PCB is mounted.
Yeah and that is that. No way to remove the impeller from the pump, well I didn’t want to go to the extreme level and drill out the motor as I want to have it sealed. My suggestion for anyone trying to get the stock cooler integrated into a custom loop is to use the pump of the Fury as pump for the loop.

fit new tubes to the cooler .Standard 8/10 mm tubes will fit just on the stock tube mounts, use some tube mounting things of which I don’t even remotely know how they are called in English and you are done. It is sealed tight and no water came out.

nice teardown man. since you just change the tube, that means we can use a different rad. as well? (eg. 240mm rad).
wondering how to fill up the AIO with liquid then?

The temp sensor most likely to measure water temp for how fast the fan on the radiator should spin. The core temp reading using software like GPU-Z/HWiNFO/etc pretty much the core temp.

i'm backkk~~

sorry busy with raya

to report back, i didn't do a lot to the gpu..just testing which fan speed suitable..

below 50% fan speed is a big no no for playing heavy games, 60% got small flickers n artifact some time..i find 70% the most stable, been playing witcher 3 for hours and no signs of artifacts..and the noise was not so annoying..should I increase back the memory clock to 1600MHz with current fan speed?

but i do have flicker on the screen even when i'm not gaming..just browsing sites..it's a very quick flicker, like a fraction of milliseconds..and it doesn't happen often..probably just 3rd time happening this month..

at first i think it's because there's slight current drop or some sort because that's always happen in the past to my old LG monitor when my aircond's motor start working (my room probably got bad wiring somewhere, and probably the current drop/surge killed the old monitor)..

but this month, my aircond was not switched on at the time there's flickers..and I'm using a 2 weeks old Dell S2415H now..so I think it's because of the GPU..

Might as well as increase it to 1600Mhz and see if the artifacting still there. (Fan 70%, shouldn't have any issue with temperature)
There were reports on VRAM becoming unstable at low clock speed. Just dont change the VRAM voltage. Maintain it at 1519mV.
Some VRAM chips are weird in a sense the chip becomes more stable at higher clock than lower clock. Generally, the lower the speed, the more stable.


-.- flicker when browsing sites? What kind of flicker? Horizontal small lines flickering? Checker board pattern flickering? Large vertical line flickering?

This post has been edited by JohnLai: Jul 24 2015, 01:17 AM

horizontal lines

Okay.....this is probably 2D application VRAM downclocking issue.

Hmm......not sure if msi afterburner got this functionality, I only know ASUS GPU Tweak can set the minimum vram clock speed for low GPU load (2D load).

Need to set minimum 2D VRAM clock of 300mhz or 600mhz (preferably 300mhz)
Cause by default 2D VRAM clock speed is 150mhz (some said this frequency is too low for the vram chip to function correctly or the memory controller can't response fast enough to supply voltage for the operation)

When the gpu memory controller steps up vram speed from 150mhz to 600mhz or even 1500mhz under load, the flickering occurs.
You could use asus gputweak, it has similar controls as msi afterburner.

The setting you have done in msi afterburner only applies for 3D heavy application (under heavy graphic load).

 GPUTweak_Manual_EN.PDF ( 2.41mb ) Number of downloads: 15


From the gputweak manual, page 18 and 19. Need to change to advanced mode for the 2D/3D option to be available.




This post has been edited by JohnLai: Jul 24 2015, 01:44 AM

the memory clock rite? turn it down to 300MHz?

????
The 2D VRAM clock is 600mhz by default?

I propose you to RMA the gpu as soon as possible.
Your GPU is practically lemon goods

With 2D vram clock at 600mhz, the flickering horizontal issue should not be happening in first place.
In other word = you got seriously faulty GPU. Not to mention your 3D clock issue.

dont pening2 just send for RMA and get urself a r9 390x

Bro, RMA it and ask for a different card.

WOW... why your doing this ? Customer R9 Fury X ? custom WC?

and Temp for Fury X is good.. maybe need to change GTX 980 than every number it get is GREAT !

add-on: Remind me not to get Void warranty R9 fury X if u put on sale later time.. unless on sale really good price.

This post has been edited by Unseen83: Jul 24 2015, 06:29 PM