Anybody fitted an aftermarket alarm to their M3? Will it invalidate warranty?

I just realized we can add keyless entry, auto lock and lock/unlock sound with a suitable alarm system. Preferably a 2 way alarm which can communicate with the remote when the alarm triggers. Nowadays cars with immobilizers are no longer safe.

6.5l/100 km
That is impressive.. my Type R at best are 11l/100km
although have 60 more horse, but torque is just similar

14 to 1 compression, even higher than type r

Only 97

Higher thaN typeR LOL

This is definitely not normal. I can't even feel any vibration in my car when idling. Car is also very smooth when driven at 100-140 km/h. When cornering or parking the steering should be light. I'm driving a Mazda 3 GL myself. The tyre pressure should be 36 - 40 psi depending on your passenger load (see label on driver door edge) but I don't think tyre pressure is your problem.  You definitely need to pursue this with the SC until solved.

Hi bro,

Any advise for 18inch tyre pressure?

The car guide advise to inflate 250KPa that's around 36PSI but I feels that my ride is kinda bumpy and stiff..

Feels like releasing some air to make my ride feels more comfortable but afraid when my car bump into pot hole will damage my rims..

Even if you are not worried about the warranty the problem is whether you can find anybody to do it for you in the first place.

Paddle shifts may also be less useful than you think. I don't think there are many situations where you need to down shift to gain extra pickup unless you are in the habit of drag racing.

In any case the GB will override your selection after a short time.

Just installed side mirror auto flip module and an OBD module that controls auto-lock function. Works like a charm

AutoLock OBD module locks the car when its in 'D', and unlocks when shifted to 'P'. Additionally, with the OBD module, now the brake lights lit up whenever I lock the car, and the horn is activated if alarm is triggered.

The auto flip module is installed inside one of the door panel. Flips open when the engine starts, and closes when car is locked (either using key fob or button at door).

Costs less than RM400 for both, and best part is Plug and Play.

1. How fast do you need to pickup? Do you have to drag race at traffic lights with everybody?

2. Brake pads are meant to be worn out. Engine braking will wear out your engine which is much worse.

No, I don't imagine I'm in a 1000hp Ferrari. I also don't think I'm driving a slow poke car. Where did you get all the extreme ideas?

If paddle shifts are so essential why isn't every car equipped with them? Or is it only for you that they are mandatory?

  Engine braking is very stressful to your gearbox and transmission system. You can bust your gearbox by down shifting inappropriately and they are far more expensive to replace than brake pads.

If you have been using paddle shifts for engine braking you should educate yourself what brakes are for.

I felt the same as well. Find that mazda3 need paddle  shift especially overtaking, relying on the pedal alone is not powerful enough to overtake. Maybe because of skyactiv engine.

Hi M3 CKD owners. After getting my M3 HS for 3 months, i have been monitoring my FC everytime i repump full tank.

I am averaging 9.7l per 100km for purely city driving only.. Drive slowly, minimum load (driver only), hardly rev RPM high, and normal city drive with minor traffic.. not really major traffic and even use ISTOP everytime.

Based on full tank there are 4 quarters in total in the fuel gauge. I realise im always getting on average:
Q4 = 150km
Q3 = 75 km
Q2 = 75km
Q1 = 75km

Hence i usually get less than 400km on a full tank of petrol @ 9.7l per 100km which is not what i expected.

Currently at 2700 km mileage already.

Any owners can comment on my FC or share similar stats for same city driving exp?
Im quite dissapointed with the FC and want to know if its normal or something not right with my ride.

Based on balance in the tank, i pump around 38 liters to full tank.

Friend, full tank have 51 litre.
So you judge your FC base on 38 litre only.

yes im judging on roughly 38L only... but its still calcualted as average FC which is 9.7l per 100km..
Whether its 38L or 51L petrol used, the calcualtion is the same because im not comparing distance travelled.
Of course 51L will bring me further than 38L, but im talking about FC.

Maybe you try use the traditional ways to calculate and see? I mean by manually like pump full tank, reset trip meter, then for the next full tank fuel, use the amount of the petrol(litter) and calculate with the mileage you had. 

thanks aimeh and sootienann.
I was looking through the fuel consumption monitoring and when car is moving consumption is <9l/100km.. but when its on standstill or stopped.. consumption shoots up around 20+l/100km. i use ISTOP.

So of course the more stops and brakes, fuel consumption will go up.. since on idle mode the FC is high then i guess it brings up the total FC average to 9.7l/100km for me.