2 and 1/2 storey
need to pump water from ground level to 2 1/2 (consider 3) floor water tank.
water flow into ground level tank, then this **pump** will push water to the upper floor tank.
there is another pump at the top floor tank as water pressure for water outlet.

this **pump** in past is a grundfos, with a ball/valve.
just this year it been replaced by tsunami pump as malfunctioned/short-circuited.

this tsunami pump is a water booster pump, quite noisy compare to prev pump.
and recently it seems ceased to work.

I plan to replace it back with grundfos pump.

https://www.grundfos.com/products/find-prod...me-booster.html
CME Booster
CM Booster PM2
CM Booster PM1
CM Booster PT
CM Booster PS

is CM Booster PM2 a good replacement?

The main not enough pressure to push up to the top floor tank? No water at all if no pump? Or slow water flow?

house on higher ground level, water pressure is freaking weak.
water does still flow to top tank without pump, but it's like dripping/leaking slowly into it, can't live with this.

the 1st pump + tank are provided free by the developer, as they realized some of the house owners will face this issue, i'm 1 of those.

so, i do need water pump/pressure system.
this design is by developer.
thinking maybe should this be redesign to just using 1 tank at ground level, and 1 pump to serve outlet pressure. so can do without the pump and tank at upper flow.

but for immediate issue and need, i need to replace the pump at ground level.

If you can have more water tank on top floor, you don't need the pump. More water tank can create a buffer for your need. Just let the water slowly flow to the tank.

That can reduce your maintenance and cost of a pump.

it won't work, i will need a swimming pool to achieve that.

thx for your feedback.

Your pump need to have constant water to live long. Since you mention water are weak also from the incoming (direct), if you operate the pump you maybe sucking air too. And BTW, putting pump direct from main is illegal.

Have you check with syabas why your incoming water pressure are low? Also if you have a incoming filter (sand, membrane, etc) it could also be that issue.

Best to have a small storage tank after the incoming, and your pump after that.

Reread my post
Water direct to tank, then to my pump

How long was your first Grundfos pump lifespan?

Since you are using it to pump direct to another tank, i don't think you need adjustable water pressure. Just get one that are fully metal build.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jun 9 2015, 06:39 PM

Get the 1 with bladder tank. It help reduce the cycle on/off. The constant keep on/off will reduce the lifespan.

And filter the water before go into the pump. Dirt in water will jam the mechanical imperial.

Is impeller. But a proper pump design will have a suction filter that needs to be cleaned every month.

noob in all these terms.

the 1st grundfos pump has served us far over it's warranty period, we are very satisfied with it.
i think roughly 4+ years, probably 5 or 6 years. can't really tell now.
properly being exposed to heat and rain, it got short-circuited, though we do provide a cover for it to minimize the exposure. can't help with it, as we have to put it at backyard.

when replacing it, due to urgency and tsunami pump seems like providing similar functions and same warranty, but lowered cost, i tried it.
but now really not satisfied with tsunami pump, 1 factor it is practically constantly running, and far louder noise and vibration.

i'm deciding whether to pick the proper sizing CM 3-4 PM1
or CM 3-5 PM2, which cost 200+
according to the brochure
https://www.grundfos.com/products/find-prod....html#brochures
PM2 has extra features

Integrated pressure sensor from Grundfos Direct Sensors™ 
Adjustable start pressure 
Start / stop with 1 bar differential pressure 
Auto restart after dry running 
Max. run time 30 min. (safety) 
Pressure indication 
Internal pressure tank 

but the supplier only has PM2 on 3-5 model, a slightly bigger capacity

This post has been edited by Kravo: Jun 10 2015, 02:44 PM

You should consider whether your piping can take the pressure of PM2 pump. Usually most of the piping provided by the developer can't take high pressure and it will burst. If you're using 2 bathrooms for shower at the same time, I reckon PM1 is sufficient and you don't have to worry on your pipes.

kinggerrard is right. Before you jump into going big, I made the same mistake.

Bough a 3-5 PM1 due to price differential of RM200 with plumber saying your pipes can take it bla bla etc even with me stating my pipes are mix of old and new. Listened to him and installed it.

Super happy with the nice pressure for 2 mths. Then the problems started. First one of my toilet pipes end up having a leak. Luckily that happened after the stop cork. But I do not know where is the exact leak due to the tiling. So the best solution was basically to do a by-pass. Now my downstairs toilet looked like a maze of grey PVC pipes.

Happy for another month. Then another leak developed. This time the pipes under the porch started leaking. In the end had to drill and look for the pipe and capped it. Luckily they found the connecting pipe behind the shoe rack at the first drill. So I didnt even bother to repaint, just put back the shoe rack after the capping.

So twice, and it got me pissed off with the extra pressure. Then it happened again. This time a bidet decided to burst for no apparent reason. I was having a smoke and it just kinda exploded. I was lucky that I just had to replace the bidet.

Called Grundfos in Shah Alam and asked for a solution. They sent a technical team over to have a look. They decided that the pressure generated by the 3-5PM1 is considered "normal" though I thought it was a bit too powerful for my liking. The only thing weird is that I have nice blasting pressure on my rain shower but the hand held is like a bit cacat. In the end, the conclusion by the tech team basically indicated that my pipes were just too old to handle the 4.5bars pressure generated by the 3-5PM1. In the end I opted for them to take out 1 impeller, reducing it to a 3-4 PM1. As a result I was a couple of hundred bucks poorer and voided my warranty for my 3-5 to make it into a 3-4. Pressure reduced to approx 3.5bars.

So far so good. No more bursting pipes.

Just one piece of advise, don't over do it if you have old pipes. And if you ever want to renovate, make sure that changing all your pipings and electrical cablings is on top of your list. And make sure your contractor gives you a drawing of your pipes/cables so that you don't have to figure out where to drill in the future. I have had my share of incidences where drills went into pipes and live cables...

pm1 and pm2 is nothing about the pressure, the difference is the later has more electronic auto-"feature"

the only pressure difference is the supplier only has cm 3-5 pm2
3-4 is initial choice
the difference between 3-4 vs 3-5, is that 3-4 serve 6-10 outlet, while 3-5 is for 11-20
come to think of it, i actually have 4 bathroom, each with min 3 outlet. so 3-5 match the need

anyway, housemate asking to replace pump has drop the purchase, as the tsunami part does working, it need many hours for it to pump water up, it's like after 1 day switching it on (someone turned it off)

i am using CM3-5PM1. When switch on the water tap, a weak water pressure come out for 1sec before pump kick-in. It seems like water pipe is not holding a constant pressure. I am using it for 1year, no water leaking and pump is working good. During idling, the pump is just in standby mode, never encounter any crazy symptom on the pump itself. Does it look normal for those who also using a same model with me ?

You need a bladder tank.

So you have a same situation here ?

I don't have a pump. Even my home water pressure is low.