Carrier bought some share from Toshiba. Form somekind of global join venture relationship. Last time carrier was selling Toshiba AC and their own brand carrier ac. Now Toshiba single split go back
to Toshiba electric. Carrier only selling multi split and vrf. All Toshiba ac are made in Thailand. Carrier ac are made in China. The quality should be more or less like York.
Carrier dealer here. My house still have 2 nos. 15 years old carrier ac running strong here but that time was made in Thailand.
there are many ac installer talking bull shit out there just because there get selling incentive for certain brand then they said that brand is good and bash others brand.
AC good or not mostly due to the installer.
my previous project install thousands of Daikin. Current one will be thousands of MHI. Another one is carrier also ME. Never have problem. BTW we are mostly deal with developer.

coldness is one thing. Sometimes you pay extra for efficiency. Atheistic. Quietness and others fiction like horizontal swing. Auto filter cleaning or plasma....

Midea is the mother of all AC. They OEM AC for many AC company. But in China of same item. If you pay grade a money you get grade a quality. If you pay grade b you get grade b.....

Conceal drain pipe with wall inside ac space no need insulation. Insulation will cause wall crack.

Not about closing one eye, it's about the bloody psychometric chart. Inside an air conditioned room, the wall surface that concealed the drain pipe is hardly reach the dew point.

If use insulation with drain pipe only increase chances of the wall plaster crack. Since the insulation inside the wall will harden and shrink over time an cause air space inside the wall plaster.

Thin or think, it is still foam. Conceal foam inside brick wall comes with risk. For drain pipe, the risk is unnecessary. Conceal insulated drain pipe is nothing new, we don't do it is just because it has fail before and Malaysian think it is not necessary to take off your pants to fart.

Yes, I am a contractor. Most of our projects are directly awarded by developer for high end condominium at Mont Kiara. The current one I'm doing with contract value of over RM20mil.
Like I said, we don't conceal insulated drain pipe because it has failed us before. We even did the calculation with psychometric chart, and K value of pvc pipe, closed cell foam and cement mortar in order to satisfy ourself for not insulate the condensate drain pipe.

Inverter is a big deal. If you only use the AC at night, it might save you RM10-15 electricity per months (without considering tariff raise in future).
My advice is go for Mitsubishi not Elba.
If you want inverter Daikin(local) shall cost you around RM1,200.
Your old pipe is R22 gas, now AC mostly run on R410A. Just need to flush the pipe with some R410A before install or better if willing to flush with Nitrogen first. Not necessary to change the copper pipe for 1hp machine even R410A is on higher pressure, 3/8" pipe should be able to take 500+psi. if you worry just replace short section on the flare join.

FYI at 36deg C. R410a is around 330psi and R22 is around 200psi.

I used almost all major brands for my various projects. Most with the purchase order to the distributor which above RM100k to RM12mil.

What I can said is forget about LG. Their A/C spare parts are hopeless and they are not responsible at all. Just simply pulled out from the market even we have issued PO to them and never give a shit on warranty since they already pulled out from the market. The art cool FCU is actually OEM by Media if not mistaken. The 600w they claim might based on "korean" standard. But we have a 1hp free by LG installed in our office so far still ok and the outdoor coil is full aluminium. Means you can't patch the coil once leak.

ME equipments in Malaysia is made in Thailand (I'm using in one of my on going project around Mid Valley).

MHI is also made in Thailand (I have lunch with their dealer on Tuesday and we have 2 on going projects using their equipments)

The photo kimsim posted is a 3.5hp multi split for Singapore market. Not common in Malaysia.

Advice for those using R22 piping but want to consider to use R410A equipments. I'll say 1hp is no problem. 1.5hp and 2hp is risky. The weakest parts is the flare join for indoor and outdoor. That short parts just use thicker pipe (R410A spec) then braze to the old pipe will do.

Singaporean is rich they don't mind to pay more for their A/C, because they can save back from their elec bill. Malaysia electricity is still relatively cheaper, no point we spend too much, end of the day we might not be able to get back the ROI (return of investment).

I'm just curious which part of the Service Manual you posted mentioned the OA Thermistor is for protection against failure?

Actually what he posted is not VRV, just a normal higher hp single split inverter.

I can't remember I passed the lowyat.net english test during my registration. Maybe you should built your own forum and set your desired english standard over there. This is a forum for A/C discussion. So far kimsim been trying to answer people's queries with his best effort. Sometimes technically I don't agree with him for some points but most of the time his answer was alright.

First of all the full load EER or COP for inverter A/C with the same hp rating is more superior than non-inverter. (So your assumption for same full load power is wrong)
Secondly high power consumption of non-inverter A/C is mainly due to the starting amp required during every startup.

I means inside the service manual you posted. Which page mentioned the CU OA Thermistor is meant for protection?

I actually have few hardcopy of these service manual and read them few years ago. From my understanding these manual is for technician to troubleshoot error. Never explain the design. That's why I ask you to clarify which page you refer for what you claimed. Just in case I missed out something while reading.

From your link EER for non-inverter is 11.1 and inverter is 12.6. Means inverter is more efficient. Did you really read the link you posted or you just buta buta taruk only. Stop wasting people time.

By the way I don't think capacitor have anything to do with DOL start up. Or you are going to clarify this with another link?

This post has been edited by keyser soze: Sep 23 2015, 09:51 AM

First of all why can't you just tell us straight away which part or which page instead of telling a "R1T". The whole manual have 27 nos. R1T if you filtered with your browser. The only one that tell you what is R1T for at page 16. mentioned "Used to detect outdoor temperature, correct discharge pipe temperature, and others. " Never said anythings about frozen or failure.

You don't need the temperature to stabilize when you talk about efficiency. We have full load efficiency and part load/ weighted efficiency. As long as the A/C unit is running then you can calculate the efficiency.
Your calculation was misleading. First of all we all know that the inverter have better efficiency, means, even the full load power is higher than the non-inverter, it also 'generate more coldness '(higher btu/h) so the room can cool down faster and reach it part load stage earlier. Which means both A/C running at full load 1hp inverter will takes shorter time (if non-inverter need 4hr to reach the set temp. inverter might need 3). So, using full load power to do the calculation is completely wrong.

Secondly, you have to include the starting power surge for non-inverter, because that is the crucial part, which you didn't. To be honest, if you want to do a proper calculation you have to involved more factor (do some heat load calculation). Don't ask me exactly how, I'm only an A/C contractor with dirty mud on my boots. I just know the calculation is not as simple as you did.

This post has been edited by keyser soze: Sep 23 2015, 07:20 PM

I see how is our mighty supersound end an loosing argument, by posting a hundreds pages service manual and ask people to read it and keep claiming that the manual can proof you right. In fact I read them all but still can't find what you claim, prevent frozen and protection.

By doing so also conveniently missed out that your misleading calculation on the power consumption between inverter and non-inverter.

You want to know how I know that, please finished reading full set of Encyclopedia to find the answer.

I am not interested to know how they work. I just want to know if the manual mentioned what you claimed, prevent frozen and protection. Which didn't. Just proof that you simply post a link to divert attention of your false claim.

But again, mind to elaborate what is the 'market trend' you tried to means?