Can sell. Ask installer to do it for you or find second hand sellers in LYN. They are around.

For AC, cannot just advise like that as that's subjectively putting the cart before the horse. Start with these first...
1. Room dimension (LxWxH)
2. dwelling landed or condo?
2a. If landed, is it intermediate or corner and does roof has insulation?
2b. If condo, which floor? 1st, in between or top?
3. How big is window area in % of total frontage (all walls if condo where windows are installed)
3a. If landed, are there trees planted directly in the path where the sun hits ie how much shading does these trees provide?
4. bedroom facing where in compass point (all applicable points for condo).

With the info above, you'll know if 1hp sufficient or not and start narrowing down your options.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 25 2017, 02:03 PM

If your bedroom is in double story home upstairs with no insulation in the roof, 30% additional cooling is typically required even if the area seems to be sized for 1hp. Usually for AC, in this situation, SkyAire would not be desirable unless the room is precooled without any occupant inside first or used in combination of ceiling fan. Reliability should go for Daikin or Mitsubishi Electric or Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 25 2017, 08:36 PM

Buy from Jintex as they are competitive. AC unlike Genting or Kinabalu is based on condensation with moisture removed.

Nanoe is basically hydroxylization based purifying. The resulting effect is added moisture but not as much.

Either run at 27-28°C with 2-3 speed ceiling fan to bring about perceptible cooling of about 25-26°C. Moisture is removed but at a slower rate or if preferring colder - without resorting to investing in a humidifier - add a wide mouthed plastic tub like those use for washing clothes and fill it a quarter full with water. That compensates for moisture removed so the air doesn't feel too dry. This is the oldest trick which I've been told parents used for their young children to prevent their lungs from drying out too much.

Having moved back to condo, we're getting used to sleeping without AC as much as we can. The humidity is in the high 80s to 90s but the temperature can fall to 24-25°C. Only on oppressively hot nights do we turn it on.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 26 2017, 06:57 AM

No worries but hope you don't misunderstand that I'm not against nanoe or Plasmacluster or Samsung plasma (Splasma) or LG etc. They are truly beneficial esp when integrated in AC.

However, maintaining high humidity works cross purposes to how an AC works. There's a compromise needed. Hence in my home, if AC is turned on the house rule is no colder than 26°C and lightly dressed e.g.singlet and sleeping shorts and fleece blanket. Normally it would be 27°C AUTO with 2 speed ceiling fan which brings the humidity down to 65% and temperature 25°C owing to windchill. Everyone needs to drink at least two cups of water before they sleep. Colder than that is harmful long term.

My own preference is Sharp inverters with plasma cluster and self clean (mould prevention) and their upward air throw such was introduced in 2008-2009, way before Panasonic Skyair entered the market. The newer models had long throw out 14m as of 2015.

Any recommendation have take a wider view that just AC hp.

Hence, all the questions I raised earlier should be the primary driver first to determine the cooling load in BTU/hr from which you then derive the AC's HP required.

I've lived both in landed and condo, some afternoon sun facing, some morning sun facing and am familiar with the seasonal variation of sunlight on the buildings over the year where I live.

Basically it's the compass points where the room is oriented that matters when calculating. Trees over the frontage of the room adds to solar shading. Insulation over the roof matters as it brings down the heat load factor. Living in the top floor of a condo matters if the roof is not covered ie bare concrete exposed to the elements. Facing W,SW,NW will increase heat load. Ground floor is more insulated than top floors typically but that depends if there's a garden (affords better ground heat insulation) or fully paved front yard (living room becomes an oven by 1pm if there's no awning), etc.

Don't rush into which model....just work out the factors affecting the room that needs cooling than based on that go for the features or requirements that matters. Good piping and installer handiwork matters and don't stinge on that. The AC will be operating for a long time if maintained well as long as the brand is reputable and the product reliably engineered.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 26 2017, 12:58 PM

25°C is ok for me. One thing you need to be aware of is the choice of flooring matters. Marble/terrazo is cooler than wood than tiles. These affect perception of cooling also. Calcium carbonate in marble / terrazo sequesters moisture and makes the room less humid and pleasant. To recreate that effect in a room, Venetian wall is an alternative while retaining original flooring.

Air flow mitigates by giving a sense of cooling but it's only one part but where the room faces weighs more. W,SW,NW facing rooms esp condo and if two or more walls faces that direction, God help the occupants without AC after a cloudless day. They will be baked through until 1am. Rooftop or landed corner worst as the heat doesn't dissipate until 3am esp if it's cloudy sky and no rain. Cloud cover at night has an albedo effect likened to a wool blanket in a hot humid day. Condo with adjacent condo blocks at those compass points may act as trees also hence adds to shading.

See this posts on piping here.

To calculate the cooling load for each room, see this post here.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 26 2017, 02:44 PM

Glad to help out. Yes specify or if you think installer might cop out and supply cheaper ones, buy your own if there's a lot of rooms to install. Some forumers may have excess so you may get in touch with them.

One living used to be Megatronik or 18 electronics at least in SS2 before they became (or was acquired) by oneliving. I buy from there and Jintex as their prices are competitive.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 26 2017, 02:40 PM

Cool. I guess it works by the same principle, heat or cold transfer. Airegard makes the air exchanger but I'm not sure if a heat recovery exchange mechanism is included.

Panasonic use to have one model which was discontinued. The one with Air patrol sensor way over 10 years back. Gets dirty very quickly due to haze.

The better way is to install an air exchanger like those from AireGard.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 6 2017, 09:59 AM

It only conditions the air by removing excess moisture to lower the room's humidity (drier air) and cooling it. Toshiba pioneered indoor air purification in an air conditioner and other manufacturers followed suit.

Certain manufacturer like Daikin has a product called Ururu Sarara that has an air exchanger but it's for temperate regions with four seasons. The latest iteration are sold here but pricy and may have removed that feature.

The newer generation inverter as of 2009 has human parametric comfort kind of fuzzy logic build in that prevents overly dry air as some degree of humidity is beneficial for the lungs sake. The non inverters or inverters of early years basically has temperature as sensor but they would have removed lots of moisture. The newer ones would add humidity as a second parameter as a temp-humidity trade off. Whenever you see a "I feel" button pair, that's an indication of fuzzy logic. Some are even equipped with "eye" to detect human presence or activity and reduce operation to conserve electricity when the occupants are not around. Panasonic leads in this area I suppose but other have their implementation also.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 6 2017, 10:12 AM

It usually depends on how large an area that requires cooling and more importantly the amount of heat that needs dissipating. If the living room is partitioned into it's own space distinct from dining ie without an open flow layout, it tends to be easier to cool. The degree of shading helps also: if there's a porch, a garden with tall trees or even shading facade, the amount of heat absorbed tends to be lower.

And most importantly, the type of flooring also affects perception of thermal comfort wrt humidity control. Marble/terrazo > wood > glazed ceramic tiles

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 9 2017, 08:23 AM

If it's not troublesome, can take a picture of your current pipes as it would appear connected to the compressor outside? Just the connection will do.

You can check it out at Homefix too but Malaysian Cybersale week also has started today from 9th -13th October.



This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 9 2017, 11:47 AM

Daikin. Also check out the Johnson Controls managed York which is based on Hitachi technology but marketed by York team. Very impressive and locally produced.

The lower the temperature, the harder the AC is pushed. If you can, refer to the installation manual and have the installer to give more clearance to compressor's placement so that it doesn't suffer "heat stroke" easily. Although Japanese brand usually have better tolerances to heat dissipation clearances (maintain x cm distance left right up down away from wall, ceiling or from another compressor, etc) than Korean brand, it's better to revisit this parameter. I had to do that for my Samsung and it's been ok so far.

We hear that a lot and it boils down to varying factors. Rest assured I've used them for over 10 years of various models in various places I've stayed. It's generally ok so long as it's regularly serviced at least once a year.

Also inverter AC pipes needs to be thick 0.8". Some models have extra communication cable between compressor and indoor blower. Manufacturers also specify safe distance from compressor to wall/roof/other so that they don't overheat and konk so easily. Some are specific that the pipe must curl one round esp Korean brands. Then there are workmanship and how skilful they install esp piping to compressor. Then there's piping and drainage placement, etc.

Most times, it's a combination of these.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 9 2017, 11:42 PM

Yes. Especially Daikin Japanese and Thai manufactured AC. They're equipped with compressor protection circuitry. If a leakage is detected and coolant pressure is running low, it will shut off AC with a corresponding error message.

Most times problems root cause is attributable to cheap China copper pipes. I recommend going for better quality pipes with pre-fitted insulation like Inaba Denko's Paircoil (JP) or Smartco's Paircoil (KR). If you're in JB, across the straits sells the better one i.e. Armacell's Armaflex (UK). Pipe thickness should be for R410a gas at 0.8" (inverter and non-inverter) as R22 is phased out.

Each manufacturer have heat dissipation specs like fridge, tv where there's a minimum distance required from wall, ceiling and esp in relation other compressors e.g. living room and master bedroom.

As long as these are adhered to and AC are regularly serviced, they should present less issues.

But good piping is the key along with a skilled installer.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 10 2017, 10:38 AM

Follow this thread which I replied and read the links therein. Plus this too. All the mounting brackets should be stainless steel and painted to protect from weathering. The surface it is mounted to must be able to support the load. Masonry red bricks is preferred to sand bricks which is hollow. More importantly, adhere to manufacturer's heat dissipation spacing from walls/ceiling/other compressors etc. Ensure that there's adequate ventilation for heat to dissipate. Their AC installation manuals tells it all.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 10 2017, 02:28 PM

Who is the primary occupant? If elderly go for Sharp Plasmacluster. The gentle cool feature can blow cold air upward rather than at them. Good piping helps. Combined with 2 speed ceiling fan, the temp can set 28°C auto and yet produce all round 26°C due to windchill. Clean mode (with Plasmacluster) helps prevent mould growth and protects occupant from infection due to mould spores.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 10 2017, 04:23 PM

Use good piping and hire a skilled installer and it should serve you well. My usage pattern for my kids room was set 28°C AUTO gentle cool with fan at 2 speed. 8 to 10 hours. After each use, clean mode ( auto off itself after 30 minutes). My service guy says blower and drain very clean. Hardly touch except the prefilter at ever service for 4 years continuously before we moved somewhere else. Mine was with a 2009 model AHXP10LV. The 2017 generation (at least 2-3 iteration later) refines the existing features. Be sure to choose plasmacluster inverter. There's a higher end inverter (ends with UXD) which is not necessary but there's a non-plasmacluster (standard) inverter with is not what you want. The one required would be AHXP10(UHD/SHV). SHV is 2015 model and should be cheaper if you can find it.

Good piping mentioned in post #5341 above. Don't care what your installer says as unnecessary. Just insist on it. It will pay for itself so long as installation is done properly. Btw these type of piping are mandatory across the straits. My kid's room Sharp uses the Korean version of Paircoil.

Lastly, turn off inverters using the RC rather than the wall switch. They have complex circuitry compared to non inverters. On and off accordingly. After that wait a minute before switching off from the wall switch. That way will assure reliable operation.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 10 2017, 05:56 PM

Allco Parts in Kelana Jaya. You're looking for 1hp piping?