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 Aircon Discussion V3, Home Appliance

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SUSsupersound
post Aug 7 2015, 05:22 PM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Aug 7 2015, 05:14 PM)
Not about closing one eye, it's about the bloody psychometric chart. Inside an air conditioned room, the wall surface that concealed the drain pipe is hardly reach the dew point.

If use insulation with drain pipe only increase chances of the wall plaster crack. Since the insulation inside the wall will harden and shrink over time an cause air space inside the wall plaster.
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What people are doing, always think it at the logic way. Especially when it is something "innovative" whistling.gif
And if the installation are good, people can't make money, so have to come out with evil ideas to make something fail faster which will result to potential business doh.gif
SUSkimsim
post Aug 7 2015, 05:58 PM

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Seems like m'sian really can't accept those new thing.. Even can avoid water dripping or condensation from walls/painted drop off else, also don't know how to appreciated.

Just add on money will do.

Except installation for back to back is necessary insulated drain pipe only.

SUSkimsim
post Aug 7 2015, 06:04 PM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Aug 7 2015, 05:14 PM)
Not about closing one eye, it's about the bloody psychometric chart. Inside an air conditioned room, the wall surface that concealed the drain pipe is hardly reach the dew point.

If use insulation with drain pipe only increase chances of the wall plaster crack. Since the insulation inside the wall will harden and shrink over time an cause air space inside the wall plaster.
*
The insulation for drain pipe was slimmer & thin surface lah, unlike copper were used very thick foam

Can refer here
http://www.venture-aircon.com/installation.html
keyser soze
post Aug 7 2015, 06:29 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Aug 7 2015, 06:04 PM)
The insulation for drain pipe was slimmer & thin surface lah, unlike copper were used very thick foam

Can refer here
http://www.venture-aircon.com/installation.html
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Thin or think, it is still foam. Conceal foam inside brick wall comes with risk. For drain pipe, the risk is unnecessary. Conceal insulated drain pipe is nothing new, we don't do it is just because it has fail before and Malaysian think it is not necessary to take off your pants to fart.
SUSkimsim
post Aug 7 2015, 06:32 PM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Aug 7 2015, 06:29 PM)
Thin or think, it is still foam. Conceal foam inside brick wall comes with risk. For drain pipe, the risk is unnecessary. Conceal insulated drain pipe is nothing new, we don't do it is just because it has fail before and Malaysian think it is not necessary to take off your pants to fart.
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Are you the contractor?

For contractor even deep they can do for you, why you so worried about that smile.gif

Sound very wire leh.
keyser soze
post Aug 7 2015, 06:42 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Aug 7 2015, 06:32 PM)
Are you the contractor?

For contractor even deep they can do for you, why you so worried about that smile.gif

Sound very wire leh.
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Yes, I am a contractor. Most of our projects are directly awarded by developer for high end condominium at Mont Kiara. The current one I'm doing with contract value of over RM20mil.
Like I said, we don't conceal insulated drain pipe because it has failed us before. We even did the calculation with psychometric chart, and K value of pvc pipe, closed cell foam and cement mortar in order to satisfy ourself for not insulate the condensate drain pipe.

SUSkimsim
post Aug 7 2015, 06:44 PM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Aug 7 2015, 06:42 PM)
Yes, I am a contractor. Most of our projects are directly awarded by developer for high end condominium at Mont Kiara. The current one I'm doing with contract value of over RM20mil.
Like I said, we don't conceal insulated drain pipe because it has failed us before. We even did the calculation with psychometric chart, and K value of pvc pipe, closed cell foam and cement mortar in order to satisfy ourself for not insulate the condensate drain pipe.
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Ok that is right smile.gif
kae7
post Aug 7 2015, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(kae7 @ Aug 7 2015, 04:29 PM)
I already live/sleep without aircond for 2 years since my 18 years Sanyo Aircond(since 1995) kaput.

I still remember my 1.0HP Sanyo Aircond is good enough for my room.

So what is the best Aircond for budget under RM1000 (should have Ionizer and energy saver.) ?

Is inverter is a big deal?

I already survey on Lazada

here is my pick

Elba EACI-A1050 RM699 (without Installation)

Mitsubshi SRK09CMP RM855
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BUMP
SUSkimsim
post Aug 7 2015, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(kae7 @ Aug 7 2015, 09:40 PM)
BUMP
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Need help leonhart88

Thanks
SUSsupersound
post Aug 7 2015, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Aug 7 2015, 06:42 PM)
Yes, I am a contractor. Most of our projects are directly awarded by developer for high end condominium at Mont Kiara. The current one I'm doing with contract value of over RM20mil.
Like I said, we don't conceal insulated drain pipe because it has failed us before. We even did the calculation with psychometric chart, and K value of pvc pipe, closed cell foam and cement mortar in order to satisfy ourself for not insulate the condensate drain pipe.
*
Not all contractors are honest.
You see, you don't setup a website to promote your business, while some need(too free already, not much business sure have time to do so).
Do you have installing air cond's certifications?
Do you simply boast about the type of brackets used? The wire?
But some are boasting about this, so they can charge more, like a M of wire only rm1, they are charging SGD1 for a feet.
Like insulating drain pipe, any problem will only surface out after few years. When problem arise, the owner will look for contractor that did the job. Then the contractor can use all sort of excuse like the owner too long never service the air cond. So the owner stupidly believe this myth and let the contractor redo everything(with pay for sure).
So for the owner to realize this lie after 6 years. By the time the contractor already make enough of money whistling.gif
SUSsupersound
post Aug 7 2015, 09:59 PM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Aug 7 2015, 05:58 PM)
Seems like m'sian really can't accept those new thing.. Even can avoid water dripping or condensation from walls/painted drop off else, also don't know how to appreciated.

Just add on money will do.

Except installation for back to back is necessary insulated drain pipe only.
*
I until now still can't accept staying in a high class jail and boasting around.
That's why until today I only have money to stay in a 2800sqft corner terrace house cry.gif
SUSkimsim
post Aug 7 2015, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 7 2015, 09:59 PM)
I until now still can't accept staying in a high class jail and boasting around.
That's why until today I only have money to stay in a 2800sqft corner terrace house cry.gif
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Ok no problem no matter you how rich or poor. That is a budget only.. Some may added slightly more to be solve an the future issue.. biggrin.gif
keyser soze
post Aug 8 2015, 01:04 AM

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QUOTE(kae7 @ Aug 7 2015, 09:40 PM)
BUMP
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Inverter is a big deal. If you only use the AC at night, it might save you RM10-15 electricity per months (without considering tariff raise in future).
My advice is go for Mitsubishi not Elba.
If you want inverter Daikin(local) shall cost you around RM1,200.
Your old pipe is R22 gas, now AC mostly run on R410A. Just need to flush the pipe with some R410A before install or better if willing to flush with Nitrogen first. Not necessary to change the copper pipe for 1hp machine even R410A is on higher pressure, 3/8" pipe should be able to take 500+psi. if you worry just replace short section on the flare join.
SUSleonhart88
post Aug 8 2015, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Aug 7 2015, 09:49 PM)
Need help leonhart88

Thanks
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buy at shop liao. rm 800 already included installation. mhi 1/2hp

This post has been edited by leonhart88: Aug 8 2015, 10:15 AM
SUSleonhart88
post Aug 8 2015, 10:16 AM

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QUOTE(keyser soze @ Aug 8 2015, 01:04 AM)
Inverter is a big deal. If you only use the AC at night, it might save you RM10-15 electricity per months (without considering tariff raise in future).
My advice is go for Mitsubishi not Elba.
If you want inverter Daikin(local) shall cost you around RM1,200.
Your old pipe is R22 gas, now AC mostly run on R410A. Just need to flush the pipe with some R410A before install or better if willing to flush with Nitrogen first. Not necessary to change the copper pipe for 1hp machine even R410A is on higher pressure, 3/8" pipe should be able to take 500+psi. if you worry just replace short section on the flare join.
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inverter is a myth for me. 1/2 hp already can accommodate my 150sqft. my max watt consumption 380 watt.
Iceman74
post Aug 8 2015, 11:19 AM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Aug 7 2015, 08:49 AM)
If Inverter from 1hp - 1.5hp should be around Rm250-350
If non inverter at around Rm180-200. but don't think for future change from Gas R22 into R410a or R32 anymore.

Insulation foam should apply on each copper and drain pipe as well.

Wires should use pure wire cable as well, the grade should be use 3C40 or 3C70 or 4C40 also can, got backup in future.

PVC drain pipe can be upgrade from 16mm to 20mm as well, to avoid choke or clogging anytime.
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Thanks for the info
pat07
post Aug 8 2015, 01:51 PM

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Dear Pro..
I'm looking for a device that can measuring the usage of energy in watt, that plug to the socket before we plug the air con. I saw someone post in Version 1 or Version 2 before. You guys know what it calls? Where can i buy it? Thanks..
cucubud
post Aug 8 2015, 02:37 PM

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QUOTE(pat07 @ Aug 8 2015, 01:51 PM)
Dear Pro..
I'm looking for a device that can measuring the usage of energy in watt, that plug to the socket before we plug the air con. I saw someone post in Version 1 or Version 2 before. You guys know what it calls? Where can i buy it? Thanks..
*
You can check here. Not sure can use to check air cond consumption.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2016071

ksgill80
post Aug 8 2015, 03:13 PM

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hi all,

i have been living in my current unit for more than 10 years now. the aircon piping & wiring is Concealed from the time of the condo construction.

As for the split unit connection that has now been hidden behind the plaster conning. we rarely use the aircon much anyway but when we do its used like 8 hours straight. We have the same aircon from the time we moved in 10 years ago

My question would be

1) is it time to change the aircon? or what is the normal time frame where an aircon should be replaced?
2) can i use the same connections if i changed the aircon? since its behind the conning i am concern i will have to remove the conning as well and that means more cost.

This post has been edited by ksgill80: Aug 19 2015, 12:14 PM
SUSkimsim
post Aug 9 2015, 05:48 PM

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leonhart88 over weekend just did my re-paint job for hitachi Aircon over biggrin.gif

Original cover look
user posted image

Spray process
user posted image

user posted image

Done
user posted image

No more yellowish and just left the wall cover only
user posted image

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