Looking for 1.5 & 1hp aircon, don't want Samsung, any recommendations, must be realiable.

Please state brand & model number.

Right now i only remember LG (coz they only got 3 models), mosquito & clean air inverter is most expensive i have yet seen the self-clean model in shops.

Then maybe another Panasonic/Daikin/Sharp, but i'm not familiar with their model choices.

Also anyone using Mitsubishi? I hear someone say it's one of the better ones?

hi, is there anything to watch out for if decide to install the compressor outside exposed hanging on the wall (no place to stand on)?

would you require stronger mounting support & clamp to ensure the frame can support the compressor long term without issues, and the compressor won't get lose from the frame & fall down? what material should the frame, bolt/nuts etc be and roughly how much it'd cost including installation?

and since it's hanging outside, any safe way to install, and remove for maintenance/replacement?

Yes. Especially Daikin Japanese and Thai manufactured AC. They're equipped with compressor protection circuitry. If a leakage is detected and coolant pressure is running low, it will shut off AC with a corresponding error message.

Most times problems root cause is attributable to cheap China copper pipes. I recommend going for better quality pipes with pre-fitted insulation like Inaba Denko's Paircoil (JP) or Smartco's Paircoil (KR). If you're in JB, across the straits sells the better one i.e. Armacell's Armaflex (UK). Pipe thickness should be for R410a gas at 0.8" (inverter and non-inverter) as R22 is phased out.

Each manufacturer have heat dissipation specs like fridge, tv where there's a minimum distance required from wall, ceiling and esp in relation other compressors e.g. living room and master bedroom.

As long as these are adhered to and AC are regularly serviced, they should present less issues.

But good piping is the key along with a skilled installer.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 10 2017, 10:38 AM

Should have your replies pinned as they are very informative. Where can I find these copper cables in KL? I am based in klang area and I am sure my installer is using the normal copper pipes

Follow this thread which I replied and read the links therein. Plus this too. All the mounting brackets should be stainless steel and painted to protect from weathering. The surface it is mounted to must be able to support the load. Masonry red bricks is preferred to sand bricks which is hollow. More importantly, adhere to manufacturer's heat dissipation spacing from walls/ceiling/other compressors etc. Ensure that there's adequate ventilation for heat to dissipate. Their AC installation manuals tells it all.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 10 2017, 02:28 PM

HI,

I am thinking to buy Daikin model Premium Infinity FTK10T inverter AC. Landed ground floor small room (1 queen bed and 1 wardrobe size only). Is Daikin Inverter AC generally good in terms of reliability and service? No doubt on cooling side.

thanks.

Who is the primary occupant? If elderly go for Sharp Plasmacluster. The gentle cool feature can blow cold air upward rather than at them. Good piping helps. Combined with 2 speed ceiling fan, the temp can set 28°C auto and yet produce all round 26°C due to windchill. Clean mode (with Plasmacluster) helps prevent mould growth and protects occupant from infection due to mould spores.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 10 2017, 04:23 PM

Good question. Ya, it is prepared for elderly and may be later one day for me when I am old also.

Is Sharp Inverter reliable and service good? So far only heard of Daikin/ Panasonic...newbie to Inverter series.

Thanks halcyon27.

Use good piping and hire a skilled installer and it should serve you well. My usage pattern for my kids room was set 28°C AUTO gentle cool with fan at 2 speed. 8 to 10 hours. After each use, clean mode ( auto off itself after 30 minutes). My service guy says blower and drain very clean. Hardly touch except the prefilter at ever service for 4 years continuously before we moved somewhere else. Mine was with a 2009 model AHXP10LV. The 2017 generation (at least 2-3 iteration later) refines the existing features. Be sure to choose plasmacluster inverter. There's a higher end inverter (ends with UXD) which is not necessary but there's a non-plasmacluster (standard) inverter with is not what you want. The one required would be AHXP10(UHD/SHV). SHV is 2015 model and should be cheaper if you can find it.

Good piping mentioned in post #5341 above. Don't care what your installer says as unnecessary. Just insist on it. It will pay for itself so long as installation is done properly. Btw these type of piping are mandatory across the straits. My kid's room Sharp uses the Korean version of Paircoil.

Lastly, turn off inverters using the RC rather than the wall switch. They have complex circuitry compared to non inverters. On and off accordingly. After that wait a minute before switching off from the wall switch. That way will assure reliable operation.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 10 2017, 05:56 PM

Allco Parts in Kelana Jaya. You're looking for 1hp piping?

Yes I am, they installer is supposed to come in on thursday so I have tomorrow to purchase. Any idea on price/meter?
I just saw they sell by 20m I stand corrected. Can I get a custom size? Just spoke to my installer and he said he is using standard 0.6mm for my non inverter aircond. Will that be sufficient?

This post has been edited by Bigblock: Oct 10 2017, 08:32 PM

hi, is it really required to switch off the wall switch?

i think most people just use the remote nowadays.

just wondering.

also from your list it seems Hitachi & Daikin allows longer pipe runs. was thinking a 1.5hp aircon but will al 2.0hp be better if the pipe is long? vertical wise not an issue most ceiling not even 5 meters.

hi, thanks for the links.

regarding the stand, do you have the diameter of the stainless steel to be used so i have an idea whether they are providing a stand tough enough to support the compressor under weather.

also i believe those bolts on thingy is also important so how many & how thick am i looking at (also painted stainless steel?) the surface, is just original exterior wall not sure the material.

nowadays what is the recommended gas type to use? like which one more cost efficient in terms of balance between efficiency & cost. and side question, do we take into same consideration when purchasing a fridge (and any special requirements for inverter fridge)? R22 is phased out and only recylced R22 available & it's similar to R410 but less global warming potential? R410 is widely available but expensive, and need thicker piping? Are current non-inverter AC still using CFC, and if yes is CFC still easily available?

and silly question do brand new AC comes with gas pre-filled?

and i read a post #18 here https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2347419/all,
says:"make sure that you know what is the initial amount of refrigerant (before 1st start up), so that you can put a weighing machine below the tong to ensure the real amount of refrigerant goes in." erm how do we figure out the initial amount?

Go with thicker pipes of at least .7" to.8". Unless the copper piping is installed before 1995 you can reuse. That's because by then, China made copper pipes came into the market. Before that, the pipes are of consistently good quality.

Just to add on... based on my experience, I will insist two things with a new reno concerning ACs:
1. Professional AC installer to install piping - many a times the piping work provided by the developer are inferior and I had two strikes, one suffered a catastrophic failure but the AC's compressor protective mechanism shut down and gave a coolant loss error code.

2. Use individually jacketed insulation - there should be no temperature gradient in an AC piping. The temperature along the pipes are fairly constant within a good insulator. A gradient will exist when two pipes are insulated within the same insulator. One pipe is in liquid phase whilst the bigger one in gaseous. There'll be two temperatures hence the gradient.

All this was borne out of my fair share of headaches after which I resolve going the way SG does with residential AC piping.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 11 2017, 08:39 AM

Yes. There's current draw even after off via remote. Some will still off via wall switch...the tell tale sign is the diffuser flap is still pointing somewhere rather than in the close position.

If your room and compressor placement doesn't require it, shouldn't pose an issue. Only when compressor placement is very far way then take vertical height limit into consideration. Those old low rise apartments where compressor placement is down at the car park whilst the blower is located as high as two floors above, it certainly becomes a factor. Or when installing compressors on the same level in a bungalow or semi D for ease of maintenance access but some rooms are third floor, compressor vertical height limit needs to be taken into consideration. A few manufacturers do not even publish vertical height limit figures like LG. You have to take the worst case assumption ie 5m. Otherwise, if installed in the ledge outside the room, then no.

If your room is first/top floor in a landed dwelling and it's hot for most hours in the night, then upsize cooling load (BTU/hr) by another 30% . LARGER pipes for 2HP can be installed and use by 1.5HP but not other way round.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 11 2017, 10:06 AM

Nope. They are painted over with oil based paint if compressors are exposed to the elements. I usually trust my installers to worry about that stuff for me hence I don't know about the thickness, sorry.

Nowadays, R410a but that's probably giving way to R32. R22 ended production at least a few years ago. R410a was expensive then as supply was scarce but should not be as scarce now compared to R22.

No idea if it is prefilled. I suppose it is else it wouldn't say in some brochures "AC comes pre-charged for up to 7.5m. Exceeding that, top up x grams per meter" or something to that effect. Call the manufacturer and speak to someone technical to confirm or ask your installer.

I think the more weightier take home point in that post is whether the piping to be reused for R410a, had the previous AC installed suffer a compressor blow out. If so, change the piping. Cleaning the pipe previously used for R22 via vacuuming and doing a leak test is crucial even if there was no blowout. I had to do that with my parents AC when changing to R410a.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 11 2017, 10:08 AM

hi, can elaborate more on R32? does it require bigger & thicker pipe than R410a, or somewhere between R22 & R410a?

so nowadas even non-inverters uses R410a?

Hi All , just a quick question. What is the price ranging for cleaning aircond services now ? I am from KL area.

Same piping recommended for R410a. R410a is 50% R32 and 50% blend acting as flame retardant.

Yes, even non inverters are R410a. Inverter has more complex circuitry, DC motor mostly with magnets. Thus it's more delicate and complex due to additional components.

hi, so meaning even if the AC is non-inverter, if it uses r410a gas, the piping will need to be spec for r410a inverter AC?

that means any modern homes with built in pipe should be r410a spec?

since you say no way can tell if existing pipe is brass or not as they are painted (both inside & outside)?