Multi split refers to multiple indoor units with their cooling provided by a single high powered compressor with individual refrigeration ports to each unit.

Inverter refers to a variable frequency operation of the compressor as contrasted to non inverter's fixed frequency. Thus cooling operation is much more accurate as well as efficient using an inverter. The procurement cost is higher but savings is already had from day one. ROI is dependent upon frequency of use.

These two concepts are independent. Single split or multi split compressors can be inverter or non inverter types.

Are AC piping already provided? If so, engage an AC specialist to do a leak test first (2 weeks). If piping are already pre-installed, go for a single split (1 compressor 1 indoor unit) rather than multi split (1 compressor n indoor units of same or different HP). Multi split piping insulation requirements must be strictly adhered to for compressor operational longevity.

Based on the combined dimensions of living, dining, kitchen and the walk way to the rooms, it's 45.91m2 or 494.17sqft. Conservatively, a minimum 3HP should suffice for the whole space. To be safe 4HP should be able to accommodate when there are more people in the house or the heat emitted during cooking. If you want 2 separate AC in each zone, perhaps assume that a higher cooling load should attend to the living area so 1.5-2HP. The dining and kitchen should use 2-2.5HP.

North facing units will have the sun rise on the right (E) and set on the left (W) during the months I mentioned but the degree of its azimuth vary through those months. If there's another development in front of your condo and they block, you may use a lower heat load factor e.g. 60 x area in sqft to derive the BTU. Otherwise assuming the worst, use a higher one e.g. 65 esp for the bed rooms. The master should go 1.5HP with piping meant for 2HP so that if you think that more cooling load should be had and if you device to upgrade later, the pipes already support such a choice. Larger pipes can be used over lower HP AC pipe spec but not the other way round.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 26 2017, 10:32 PM

No idea about the pricing but definitely at least 30% more utilising multi split. This thread in the other local forum has actual experience of home owners who used them. In LYN, kimsim used to use a York system 2 multi split non-inverter as shared here before he moved down to SG.

My experience bears out that if the correct method of insulation over AC piping is used viz single insulation jacket per pipe, the AC will operate at its rated cooling capacity with the compressor being quiet. Combine that with regular periodic maintenence, it will serve you well for a long time. I've used a Sharp inverter single split using such piping and 4 years before I moved out, the indoor unit is hardly serviced at all except for the filter mesh. The AC features a clean mode kills the mould so the AC and blower is clean. After every use, we use the clean mode to dry the blower and cooling fins which turns off by itself after 30minutes.

Try another option:
MBR single split 1.5HP

With either of the below:
Dining and bedroom use a system 2 (2.5-3HP)
Living and bedroom use system 2 (2.5-3HP)
OR
2 bedrooms use a system 2 (2HP)
Living and dining use a system 2 (3HP)

Compare this placement vs the others that was suggested. If going Multi split, Daikin and Fujitsu should be the brand to try. The other would be Toshiba if they are locally available. Their single split inverter is quite value for money as seen here and have good features esp clean function.

R32 would be a little pricier to begin with but should be ok par when R32 refrigerant availability is better. R410a is 50% R32 + 50% flame retardant. R32 has a lower Greenhouse gas potential index of 675 compared to R410a.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 27 2017, 02:52 PM

Ping kimsim and see if he's had any contacts.

It will drip due to humid air in the ceiling. Humid area need thicker insulation like 1/2" on top of the pipe diameter. Some do even use 3/4". Some AC supply shops sell insulation by 6' run. Perhaps you might want to find an alternative contractor to rectify that by changing that section to thicker insulation if possible.

It's quite compact. View it from the pictures or the youtube videos.

Flaring tool and pipe bending tool should be standard I think but ask the shops to advise or confirm. A pipe bending tool is only needed for bending rigid copper pipes. For coiled piping less of an issue unless there's a tight bend like a u-turn. Sounds like you're DIY-ing.

How many are you buying? If only 1, so long as your car provides flat back with the back seats folded down and have wide access width and height wise to fit the compressor, a sedan definitely no, a hatchback like Jazz, barely for 1HP. A van or MPV with the above feature mentioned is suited for this.

Sedan no. Hatchback like Jazz or Livina can. It has to have height clearance.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 29 2017, 02:08 PM

It's door can open that wide?! 👍

Get a reliable installer. Shop appointed one's can be hit or miss. Where are you located?

If you're in PJ, Kelana Jaya Allco Parts or SS2 Sri Siam row or Paramount (where Wong lighting and Giant is) intersection traffic light turning right on the way downslope towards the junction where the mosque is there's one on the row of shops (amidst lots of electrical supply and curtain shop) on the left before the Caltex station.

Might as well try one jacket per pipe.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 30 2017, 02:16 PM

One more in Sec 19/3, Gain City (under Aconland) same row as the corner Nanking vegetarian restaurant facing the hill slope where Kanna Curry House is situated.

If you can, go for K-flex (Italy) then Superlon or Insulflex.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 30 2017, 02:33 PM

See here. You may need insulation tape to go with it. Get 3/4" thickness outdoor and 1/2" thickness indoor supposing the pipes are accessible. Protect the insulated pipes outdoor with a conduit as much as possible if desired so that the exposed part is shorter.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 30 2017, 03:37 PM

Ensure that each pipe is sleeved individually as it should be as done worldwide. If SG are doing that in their residential, no way the physics is the exception over here.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 30 2017, 03:09 PM

Not all AC installers do that at least not those I use. Doesn't make sense also.

What you suggest is fine although bending the pipe upwards must be within the installation manual acceptable curve radii limits and of course kink free. The part outside can be hidden in a PVC casement. This is prevalent in SG and over here. Even if it's above the door you can run the pipes and electrical ok the side with greater clearance. Otherwise if really tight, create a false box 8" deep above the door and have the AC mount on the false box with a 6" rectangular man hole for the pipes.

What you suggested is great as it means you're taking the precaution to ensure that it's not accidentally drilled into.

A friend had an a ex-colleague with a dud AC. Everything was never used at all as it is unusable because the indoor cable was drilled where they extended a wall to make way for a storage room as an after thought (very dangerous esp in situations like this). The AC was never used since day 1 for decades because it would be messy to hack the wall and not to mention take out and redo the partition. Complicating matters that dissuaded them to rectify was that the affected AC compressor is not located on the same floor.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jan 1 2018, 09:29 AM

I didn't observe as I was working whilst they installed at my home. Search and see. A Paircoil is soft enough to bend together but if it's bent to do a u turn, I think the tool I linked in the your AC thread may come in handy.

Bend with hand is possible with paircoil but not to the extent of u turn without specialise tool. Just go to your control panel and search for your topics will do.

Wah...😁 you look me too up (over estimated my abilities). I'm just an informed user not an AC installer. I'm not sure about the tools. The flaring nut depends on the pipe sizes. The manual will state what to use. Best is to leave that to the installer.

Pre-charged length stated in spec and top up rate per extra length all in installation manual.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jan 3 2018, 10:57 PM

I've mention what it's for and described it briefly how it's done. The installer is the who carries it out.

It's discussed at length here.

Where were the old compressors placed? See this post.