Where you based?

Refer to this post and 12 posts back to see how a proper professional installer would have done it.

Additional consideration on compressor placement mentioned here.

Never ever get an appliance shop to install for you unless you know their handiwork first hand evidenced by coolkwc's anecdote in this thread here . Same goes for developer..I rather rip out their AC piping and redo unless they do like those pros do 12 posts back.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 12 2017, 08:59 PM

They can and should where it is direct. Another post pic should show. Perhaps that's under a shaded roof and at the back where direct sun is not an issue.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 13 2017, 12:15 AM

Mitsubishi Heavy Industries FDT71CR-S is spec is rated at 24,225BTU/hr (7.1kW).

The Daikin FCN30F spec mated with RN30C is 30,000BTU/hr (8.79kW)

If greater cooling capacity is your priority, the choice is clear. Check the price at Lazada, could be cheaper.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 13 2017, 06:26 AM

Follow the installation manual. Different model will vary. See for example Fujitsu one but take it as a rough guideline only.

Actually, it's obvious that Daikin model with the compressor has a higher cooling load 30000BTU/hr vs MHI 24245BTU/hr. If your priority is cooling powerfully, the choice is Daikin.

Spare parts wise, availability is easier with the Daikin.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 13 2017, 12:17 PM

Straight pipes need bender. Coiled pipes no need, installer needs to ensure that it stays in place. Perhaps it may need to be bent to keep it in that shape.

Existing condensate pipes uninsulated will develop mould unless it's behind tiles which will not be seen but doesn't mean it would not develop.

Leave the minimum possibly clearance for circulating air flow and most importantly to pasang the indoor unit and also open (lift up) the front access panel. Then work backwards. AC has flex tube for drain connection so no worries as long as the drain is below the pipes too receive condensate. The installer should know how to do it.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 13 2017, 12:35 PM

How about Rero?

Inaba Pair*coil* is soft flexible tubing whereas Neopipe is rigid.

Bending done by hand although possible with coiled pipes will not guarantee kink-free bends if the radius is very tight. Rigid copper pipes should use pipe bender tools on the outset. It all depends on installer's skill. Coiled pipes although easier to bend is not immune to kinks at extreme angles unless the tool below is used.


Clearance from where to be specific? Ceiling? 4" minimum or more if the AC front panel when lifted needs height clearance. Left and right the minimum necessary esp if pipes are in casement and the first path next to indoor unit bends upwards rather than embedded/concealed.

If laid already, not unless you rehack or easier but uglier lay a new one exposed in the toilet and have it conveyed to discharge near a drain. Testing is as you mentioned. Pour it via some tubing feed bottle. If you are not confident that the drain may be clog free, one alternative is an have an exposed uninsulated drain pipe in the toilet which should be in front of the tiles as mentioned earlier. The AC insulated drainage tube just connects to it directly. If drain pipes are clogged and you don't want the hassle of extensive hacking, install a condensate drainage pump like Easi Flo. The installer should know. A flexi tube carries the discharged water but it still needs to go somewhere so they may drill through the wall to get it into the toilet etc. This scenario also works if relying on external casement in which case just run the flexI tube in the casement to have it discharge elsewhere say a common place if the runs are short or to a insulated drain pipe inclined to guarantee drainage to be discharged safely elsewhere. The other brand that does the same but is neater and can be 'hidden' is Aspen but hard to find. Like this one below:

If you're installing pipes using exposed casement, this Aspen model may be used if the drainage pipes are clogged.

You've ask this before and I mentioned it also. Support the floor mounted compressor as shown. This is a 3HP or higher compressor I saw mounted like so.

These are found in hardware stores and usually used to mount washing machines.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 14 2017, 08:32 AM

How old are these pipes? Follow the model spec. Have a reliable installer to check. Panasonic models quite sensitive so if you can, install better insulated piping like Inaba Denko Paircoil. See my earlier post for contact.

The guys just used cement I think. The compressors are heavy to begin with and they seat them above anti vibration mats and secure the feet with a screw into the mat and block.

It functions the same way as risers: to prevent the compressor from sitting on the floor.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 14 2017, 09:45 AM

Call them and ask for a list of installers around your area. Where are you based?

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 15 2017, 04:43 PM

Input power. Cooling capacity is expressed as BTU/hr which is British imperial unit or Watt which is the metric si. EER would be the energy efficiency ratio measured by dividing BTU/hr over input power. The metric ratio would be Coefficient of performance (COP) dividing cooling capacity in Watt/hr by input power also expressed in Watt.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 17 2017, 02:17 PM

Read this post and the replies below that on the same page.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 18 2017, 01:46 PM

Think of it as an air purifier integrated into an air conditioner. If this is a bedroom AC for kids, try 28°C AUTO cooling mode with coanda with 2 speed ceiling fan else your own set to 27°C AUTO cooling mode. For my family, we dress according to the climate which is essentially shorts and singlet or cotton tee here and use summer or fleece blankets or without. Day time set to 26°C is comfortable enough or 24°C if very warm. All this assumes cooling load calculator sizes it adequately. The clean mode after every use should prevent mould build up. They have a human comfort program which you can use which might optimise as long as cooling load is adequately sized. Instead of Cooling mode try AUTO mode at preset temperature. It should switch between cooling and dry mode where appropriate.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 19 2017, 06:44 AM

Why the additional length? Is it because of placement choice or condo restricting compressor placement necessitating long pipe runs? AC should go over the shortest possible route that is above the window so that compressor is placed outside at the AC ledge. Normally around 2.5-3m for landed dwelling.

If your preference is because of deep placement within the room which needs extra length to reach compressor space, account the cost for concealment and painting back the walls or laying exposed trunking.

Finally, note that not all 1HP maximum pipe length (expressed in m or feet one way) are the same. Some could be max 10-15m. Rarely if not very few for 1HP to exceed 15m run length. For such it's more common for 2HP and above which commonly reaches 20-30m max pipe length depending upon model. The only exception where 1HP piping going beyond 15m is when a multi split system where one compressor powers a combination of 2-4 blowers of up to 4HP or more in total.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 21 2017, 10:53 AM

The restrictions I mentioned apply. What's the total length of the build up area? 40-50ft? One third would be 14-16ft not including the external length to reach the compressor which works out roughly to extra 6-8ft. By doing so, ensure the AC compressor for the model chosen can support the total run length deduced above of 20-22ft or 22-24ft.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 21 2017, 05:46 PM

Where you based?

Your bedrooms will be sunned from morning to evening from Apr to Oct as it traverses northwards and then southwards. The cooling load is highest during this period. The master will get sunned from the other months at the south to some extent but not as badly as the exposed walls faces east whilst the smaller window south.

Living, dining and kitchen seems to be one contiguous zone divided functionally for each of the designated space? Perhaps a 2.5HP AC would help here.

Besides balcony and yard, are there dedicated AC ledges to place the compressors? You might want to consider 2 multi split compressors if there are no dedicated AC ledge. One system 3 compressor (4 or 4.5HP) powers living (2-2.5HP) and two bedrooms (2x1HP)placed in the balcony. The other, a system 2 compressor (3.5 or 4HP) in the yard serving dining (2 or 2.5HP) and master bedroom (1.5 or 2HP). Multi splits here would be Daikin and Fujitsu but in SG there are more choices from the other manufacturers like Toshiba, Panasonic, Mitsubishi Electric, LG besides those two mentioned.

Piping should be very good like Inaba Denko Paircoil otherwise the AC compressor spoils sooner esp if it's a multi split. In SG, they use a multi-split with good insulated piping and regular preventive servicing, it lasts 9-15years before they decided to upgrade. Individually insulated piping ensures the compressor don't overwork which is the primary cause for their konk-ing before their time.

However, the MBR looks quite large compared to dining and living space if compared individually. Do you have the space dimensions for each space so that the cooling load can be calculated accounting the factors imposed?

The other option is a system 2 compressor for the two bedrooms totalling 2HP whilst living and dining use a 3HP long throw mounted above the balcony sliding track or a 3HP cassette if there's which ceiling clearance. Ensure there's enough space for multiple compressors without a dedicated AC ledge.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 26 2017, 12:59 PM

Recommend getting a good installer. You can buy without installation and keep it there but have a pro installer come and install it later. I don't recommend shop or developer installers (too many bad experience with incorrect installation and kinked pipes that eventually develop leaks) but rather professionals who know their craft and gets it right the first time.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 26 2017, 01:05 PM