Normally this kind of issue should call Toshiba technician to troubleshoot. If the remote not responsive is either IR remote side or IR receiver side our something else in between. The fact that the AC blink perhaps they have troubleshooting guide in the manual to inform you what to do.

Right now, I'm assuming the remote is faulty from what you described and I could be wrong. It possibly could be something else. The link is here but this is only to repair a fan pcb board. I dont know if that applies to AC Remote. What if you get a universal remote and see if it's the original remote problem first. Or test the remote on another Toshiba AC in the house to determine if it's actually the problem.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 7 2017, 07:45 AM

You can read up the forums down south to get a feel of how much joy or pain home owners go through depending on how good or bad the installers does it. The standards there insulate one pipe with one insulating sleeve to prevent down mixing between cooling like and return line.

Pre-insulated pipes are of course pricier but only because it's the insulation is already pre-attached and the pipe is good quality.

See this post also.

Material is indeed locally available but whether installer wants to go this route is another issue. I was fortunate to engage one that did it for me awhile back. Add on insulation using Insulflex if pipes are already supplied are also found. You can go to AC or refrigeration parts supply around town. Standard material and installation method bro.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 7 2017, 06:04 PM

Two insulation sleeves instead of one as it's jacketing each pipe instead of two pipes in one before laying them. If using Paircoil, only lay the pipes as the pipes are already sleeved with insulation at factory. Where there is prolonged sun exposure, the exposed jacket should be UV rated or protected by a UV rated sleeve. To AC guy it's just time and labour so they charge accordingly. Insulflex is manufactured by a local company and marketed overseas also. More info found here and here. The material is also used for car ACs too as sold here.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 7 2017, 06:31 PM

They are inverter pioneers so no surprise there. What's the yearly figure in kWhr for your model?

I'm curious if STM has a web site to show this like SG NEA and HK EMSD. The others cover AC, WM and also fridges. This would be helpful to see all the AC listing.

Quite near MHI SRK10YLS. The more efficient one is actually the ME inverter's discontinued model before MSY-GJ10VA which if I'm not mistaken was 900-1000+kW/hr/year

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 9 2017, 10:54 AM

Can you furnish the dimensions of that space and where that window roof faces. I'm assuming west. The space may have to be enclosed otherwise the cold air will leak downstairs. The easiest way would be to use heavy curtains to cover the stair banister and stair case but it can be unsafe. A friend covers that space instead with a sliding door over but usefully practical as it is to keep the cold air in, I don't like it as it blocks the air flow by half when opened. But that's just me.

When AC not in use, if that louvre windows are opened, it should be less hot and that warm air trapped near the ceiling should flow out inducing cross flow and stack effect (bottom to top) ventilation. Only problem is that its quite problematic to close before if rains. Plus the fact that its a high ceiling.

Update: this suits your space more.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 10 2017, 01:32 AM

I use both. MHI rated at 1243kWh/yr whereas the MSY-GJ10VA is about 1489kWh/hr if not mistaken. The power saving one I was talking about actually was the ME Starmex MSY-GE10VA. Discovered too late that it was discontinued.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 10 2017, 01:12 AM

The bricks and roof are soaking up heat from the sun and they will reradiate inwards and downwards like an oven.

If the window is not meant to be open, perhaps replace it with a fixed pane and install 12" wall or the neater option a ceiling mounted extractor fan (may need to ensure the air can flow out of the roof space and not stagnate in there) to help with the heat and see if it helps without AC. The current glass pane design is quite redundant as only hot air comes in but can't flow out.

That way you can apply a tint either laminate or liquid gel like Kristalbond on the glass before installing it. They have VLT 70 clear or 60 blue tint which is quite ok.

For AC, multiply the area in sqft with heat load factor of 70-75 to derive the BTU/hr. From there, infer HP required. You might want to try Sonneaire as sun and heat is abundant.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 10 2017, 10:12 PM

Applying tint would necessitate removing the glass I'm afraid due to the unusual configuration. Otherwise only nearly all of it is tinted. That's why I suggested better to redo in this circumstance. Plan ahead and see what options you can come up with and go with the one you're comfortable with. Good luck!

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 11 2017, 10:34 AM

2HP but ideally 2.5HP. Look for an AC long throw feature like Sharp or Mitsubishi Heavy Industries or Mitsubishi Electric.

Where you based? KL & PJ Jintex Electronics

Where you based? If in KL try Jintex Electronics

The ones I mentioned above are the ones I know off hand but you can search other brands and see. You're looking for inverter or non inverter?

Conservatively it's 21,780BTU (363 x60) but even this is optimistic and not taking into account of factors that contribute to higher heat loading. So, given the caveat spelt out before, it should be above 2 but up to 2.5HP. 2.0HP only up to18000BTU. Any higher range found in an inverter is because of powerful mode where they will cool at 10-20% above their rated cooling load for say 30minutes. Inverters definitely save from day one. Buying them is not cheap but operating them regularly over a period of time surely is if you're staying long term.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 12 2017, 11:00 AM

Usually Aircon/Refrigeration parts shop like Allco Parts in Kelana Jaya sells it but you need to buy the whole 20m. If you're familiar with PJ, various AC/refrigeration supply shop carries them too like those along SS2 near Sri Siam and the one on the row before the Caltex on Section 20 coming down from the traffic light t junction at the Paramount Garden (O&S kopitiam) intersection. Another one is seen here.

Due to increase requests by others esp advocado, I recently found one that may also install for residential in addition to supplying the Paircoil products.

Try contacting Rero Kompressor to enquire here.

More than the pre-insulated pipes, they do carry a wide range of Inaba Denko ducting and fittings packaged as a whole AC ducting and insulation solution as shown here and here.

You may see their works as posted here, here, here and here.


This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 12 2017, 02:16 PM

Inaba Denko installer available at post-1. Give it a go for your Daikin. Let us know your findings and review the AC. Good luck.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 12 2017, 03:05 PM

Depends on installer skill at pipe bending, whether the proper tool is used with bending done correctly with enough allowance at the sharp corners and lastly quality of pipe.

You want to try York or MHI from Lazada. Quite value for money this inverter. Get good piping as mentioned in post-4.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 12 2017, 03:39 PM

Yours landed or condo? Where is compressor located? What model York? Was this AC that give error using existing piping and wire for a previous AC?

Update, based on this FB post, it seems that the compressor possibly could operating at an extreme temperature range that causes the board to fail. You might want to get another experienced installer to reseat the AC compressor such that this condition is avoided. Call York and tell them your model number and then get them to email you the installation diagram showing the clearance from the wall and ceiling to avoid overheating. Check this for your other AC also.

Based on this one, it just show a symptom of communication between outdoor and indoor unit. Detail checking here. Does the MCB trip for that unit when trying to turn on AC? If so, the wire kena drilled or degraded, etc.

Of concern is whether it's a placement issue that will potentially cause overheating during a hot day or night or wiring issue or even lightning strike etc. If it's placement issue (common), better to reseat it according to manufacturer install specification.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 13 2017, 06:34 AM