Thanks for sharing, now I know I am not the only one getting this problem.

I have similar noise too from the driver side door and passenger side door when driving over bump or turning, especially at low speed. It is getting more noticeable now after 5 months on the road, and I think it is getting worse.

Will complain to SC in my next service.

My 12 years old Altis doesn't even have this problem.

Oh yeah, that's also how I 'overcome' the problem too.

Somehow the rattling sound does not surface when driving at high speed (>60kmph). Probably it is subdued by other noises. Also, other passengers do not really notice it unless I mention it.

Overall, I do not think it is a big problem as overall I still feel that this is a quiet and comfy car, much better than other Japanese D-segment cars I test-drived.

Nevertheless, I will still make a case to Toyota SC. Hey, I am not paying peanut for this car, so I do not deserve a monkey.

Agree with Akira & Michelle.

But if FC is your main consideration, you might need to have a second thought.

FC for Camry Hybrid is good ( I am getting 750km for 55ltr), but the saving is offset by the higher roadtax paid (RM800++). The saving is pretty much dependent on your annual mileage.


Here are some of my personal opinions based on my research & test-drive done on some of the D-segment cars:

FC: Camry Hybrid > Mazda 6 > Passat > Accord/Teana

Roadtax: Passat 1.8 < 2.0 < 2.4 < Camry Hybrid 2.5

Handling: Passat > Mazda > Camry/Accord/Teana

Comfort: Camry > Teana > Accord > Mazda > Passat

Power: Passat/Camry > Mazda/Accord/Teana

RV: Camry/Accrod > Teana/Mazda > Passat

Design: Mazda > Camry/Accord/Passat > Teana

Features: Camry > Mazda > Accord/Teana > Passat


Eventually I selected Camry Hybrid.

p/s: These are my personal assessment which some of them are pretty subjective according to personal experience & preferences. You need to try it out yourself.

Not really. I tracked and noticed that there are no significant differences in FC in between RON95 & RON97. Also, no significant differences when pumping with different petrol brands.

It is the traffic condition and also how hard you press the pedal.

From my observation, the FC is the most efficient in between 60km/h to 80km/h, sometimes it can hit >17km/ltr.

60km/h to 80km/h --> ~17km/ltr
80km/h to 100km/h --> ~16km/ltr
100km/h to 120km/h --> ~15km/ltr
120km/h to 140km/h --> ~14km/ltr
140km/h to 160km/h --> ~13km/ltr


For speed below 60km/h, usually happen while driving in the city, where the car needs to brake and accelerate more often, the FC will get below 13km/ltr. If the jam is really bad, like barely moving at 20km/h, the FC will drop to 9km/ltr. This is because the energy stored in the battery will dry up over time, even the car is not moving, simply because the car system especially the aircon will consume most of the energy. When the battery energy level is low, the 2.5LTR engine kicks off and it will consume more fuel compared to 2.0LTR or below engines.

And why the faster it goes the lower km/ltr, I believe the electric motor can only provide support up to a certain level and anything beyond that will need to come from the engine (fuel).

This is my pure observation and hypothesis.

Anyone have changed the tyres? Considering either Michelin P3ST or BS GR100.