QUOTE(adamw @ Aug 4 2021, 02:16 PM)
Then you can recommend the link for alucard89 If it can detect breathing then it should work
Smart Home, Let's discuss
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Aug 4 2021, 02:21 PM
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#821
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7,936 posts Joined: Mar 2014 |
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Aug 12 2021, 09:51 AM
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#822
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7,936 posts Joined: Mar 2014 |
QUOTE(lyt25_1234 @ Aug 11 2021, 03:32 PM) I need some ideas from you smart guys, I have a Sonoff Basic R3 but I want to use it along side a light switch so that I can sometimes also control it manually by myself instead of using the eWelink app. But looks like tak boleh, rite? Refer to this discussion if this is what you were trying to doCuz if setup that way, when i manually off the light switch, then it will lost power to the Sonoff Basic R3, so meaning no WiFi already and so i can't control it anymore from the eWelink app, rite? https://support.itead.cc/support/discussion...ics/11000025368 If I remember it right, the Sonoff circuit is not fully isolate circuit. The relay just cut the L line like normal wall switch. That is why you do not need to bother the N side. This post has been edited by Zot: Aug 12 2021, 09:53 AM |
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Aug 12 2021, 05:18 PM
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#823
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7,936 posts Joined: Mar 2014 |
QUOTE(knuxed @ Aug 12 2021, 04:52 PM) You meant this?https://shopee.com.my/Smart-Doorbell-Camera...896?position=15 |
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Aug 13 2021, 08:14 AM
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#824
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QUOTE(knuxed @ Aug 12 2021, 05:23 PM) I see. It looks like both devices need to have transformer because none have internal transformer. If you are using the wired type, like other normal doorbell, the power will come from main unit. So, no need separate power.As long as the transformer can provide the required AC voltage and VA rating, then no problem. You canfind many installation video from Youtube |
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Aug 13 2021, 10:57 AM
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#825
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QUOTE(xtracooljustin @ Aug 13 2021, 10:50 AM) I bought 2X 20A smart switches (links with eWelink app) for water heater function from a seller in Shopee. What brand did you buy? Does it have relay inside. Many 20A do not use relay. The one with relay in more reliable.Within 3 months, experienced problem with the switches, both malfunction on the same day. The switches work on/off and even work from the app but no hot water. Paid a technician to come take a look, used a test pen, when turned on, only Live In has current, Live out no current. Anyway, anybody else got recommendation on 15A or 20A smart switch? prefer those that can have inching setting, to turn off 30mins after schedule turn on. I do not use one to recommend This post has been edited by Zot: Aug 13 2021, 11:08 AM |
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Aug 13 2021, 12:04 PM
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#826
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QUOTE(xtracooljustin @ Aug 13 2021, 11:47 AM) Looking at the connection diagram, it looks like only L side is cut off unlike normal 20A switch where both L and N are isolated.Never said it use relay or not but sound like your switch has electronic component failure already I would like the relay cut both L and N side totally like normal 20A switch. This way the switch electronics will not face kick back voltage generated from motorized device like air-cond. The heater is pure resistance. So, I wonder why it heater is killing it so fast. Probably design issue. |
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Aug 17 2021, 08:16 AM
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#827
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QUOTE(cablesguy @ Aug 14 2021, 09:41 PM) adamw If you look at the wiring diagram, you can see the N wire goes direct to heater and split to the switch also. This means that the relay in the switch (if any) is cutting off the L side only No idea bro, does it make a difference? Anyway I just got some of these as spares, slowly transitioning to Tuya Zigbee, any idea if its good? 20A switches |
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Aug 17 2021, 08:33 AM
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#828
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QUOTE(cablesguy @ Aug 15 2021, 11:27 AM) adamw How do you remove the whole AC unit from wall. If the AC is split unit, then the gas also out? I think so as they spray some cleaning solution and hose the compressor iinm, and also remove the whole AC unit from the wall to clean, not sure if thats what you mean. |
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Aug 17 2021, 08:58 AM
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#829
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Aug 17 2021, 01:50 PM
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#830
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QUOTE(cdspins @ Aug 17 2021, 01:13 PM) I employed different air cond cleaning service before, some did not dismount the indoor unit, but some will... Maybe depends on the "dirtiness" of the unit.For the refilling of the gas, it is done when they install back the indoor unit, then they will start the air-cond and check the pressure and also if the air cond is cold, if there is a need to refill, they can refill through the check gauge... I just use something like this. https://shopee.com.my/%F0%9F%9A%9AReady-Sto...9406&position=0 cdspins liked this post
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Aug 17 2021, 04:05 PM
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#831
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QUOTE(cablesguy @ Aug 17 2021, 02:21 PM) Something abt cleaning more thorough by dismounting or something, I did see some black stuff coming out when he cleaned the indoor units, I cant be certain if its due to dismounting, but this guy seems quite thorough so no complains. No need to dismount. You can dismantle until turbine fan usually. However, some model is more difficult to the others. If not mistaken Mitsubishi unit is more user friendly. There are two different business unit, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries and Mitsubishi Electric. Mitsubishi Heavy Ind is more efficient in power usage. Not sure which one more user friendly but I think it is the Mitsubishi Heavy Ind which has been in this business much longer. I don't have Mitsubishi though but my brother does. |
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Aug 17 2021, 04:16 PM
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#832
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QUOTE(cdspins @ Aug 17 2021, 02:32 PM) There is pro and cons on dismounting the indoor unit for cleaning. The exterior unit usually has fin& blower side separated from the compressor, and wiring side. I use water to spray direct to the fin and use brush to clean. No need to dismantle anything actually. It is quite safe.The pro is that by dismounting it to wash under running water and soap, the coils can be clean far better. The black stuff is probably dust+water+oil that accumulate overtimes. But the down side is that the technician need to be professional, the circuits and blower motor need to be protected so that it does not get wet. When installing it back, the connection needs to be reconnected back securely both the electrical and also the coolant piping. I've done this few time. The fan side also also sprayed together with the fin. It is and inductive motor with no brush. I would not worry if it get wet a bit. I think no need to worry much about capacitor. Just replace if you think it is bad. If faulty, compressor will not turned on. The price is cheaper than the technician labor fee. If vibration too bad and make so much noise, it is normally the rubber bushes need replacement (usually 3 bushes). The cost for 1hp is less than RM10. I replaced it once before. Sounds like new air-cond cdspins liked this post
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Aug 17 2021, 04:41 PM
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#833
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Aug 26 2021, 08:05 AM
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#834
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Cannot call Monday Blue since today id Thursday
Obviously you have switch diagram on the switch there. There is no N wire. All are L wires ![]() The either L1A or L2A, L1B or L2B and L1C or L2C go to the light bulbs, it does not matter. I should add that the one looping between switch is the L wire from DB or ceiling. The one with single wire is the one goes to the light bulb. This post has been edited by Zot: Aug 26 2021, 09:18 AM |
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Aug 26 2021, 09:29 AM
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#835
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QUOTE(joequah1 @ Aug 26 2021, 09:23 AM) I'm assuming that L1A, and L1BC both are live By stating L1, L2, and L3 as light bulb, yes it is correct.the L2A, L2B, L2C are switch? sorry, first time trying to do this not familiar with the proper term if i were to look at Aqara switch L1A and L1BC should go to L while L2A, L2B, L2C go to L1, L2, L3 respectively is this correct? |
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Aug 28 2021, 02:37 PM
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#836
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Aug 30 2021, 08:03 AM
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#837
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QUOTE(joequah1 @ Aug 28 2021, 07:51 PM) I have tried that both L1A and L1BC are live Yes. 1A and L1BC is the L side of the 3 switches. The L2A, L2B and L2C are connected to the wire that goes to the light bulb/lighting fixture.Should I connect the wires from both into L? Or just from either one will do? |
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Sep 2 2021, 05:01 PM
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#838
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QUOTE(mini orchard @ Sep 2 2021, 04:52 PM) That is the reason why aliens have big head and skinny hands and legs because they do not need to use muscles anymore. Max liked this post
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Sep 7 2021, 11:13 AM
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#839
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Sep 10 2021, 11:08 AM
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#840
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