Just change to LED bulb

My guess it is just coincidence. It cannot be too hot. The capacitor bypass some current to the switch. The LED bulb normally use constant current circuitry where brightness is not affected by voltage fluctuation. You can put any low wattage incandescent bulb instead for another round of verification, perhaps.

I believe that Live wire is just looping from another switch, right?

I cannot see much from picture. Your house use single or 3 phase since I saw that yellow wire. It is strange to have 2 ganged switch each on different phase.

The Aqara just need to connect one L and it is internally connected inside the switch to another switch. So, one common phase to the switch.

So just connect only one

No easy way. Perhaps you can tap the thermostat on water tank and calibrate to the actual temperature related to the current flow through the thermostat.

You meant double poles? I think all 20A switches are double pole. Who would seel something not complied with standard.

Like that probably just need to check wiring diagram if single or double, but still I saw ads saying theirs use relay while others SCR. That is not secure

Well, need to talk to seller before ordering like that.

Between with and without Neutral is not about reliability. It is more on operating load power range. Without N, the max power is lower but in most cases the limit is well above normal usage.

This unit is installed at the light point. The LED is connected direct to this unit. It is not the same like circuitry running on the wall switch itself. This unit use both L and N wire. I think LED should be totally off.

Mismatched will cause premature dead LED but not in this case.

As far as I know the Sonoff unit even use dry relay contact inside that will totally isolate the LED driver. I wonder how the connection was done though

The connection looks very straight forward. Your socket (power source L and N) go to Sonoff Line In and the LED driver is connected to Sonoff L & N output. I don't see any problem here, but that LED when Sonoff was off and power supply is ON is lit up a bit. I would not say barely since it is quite visible even on picture

I cannot accept this. I was looking at the Sonoff schematic for model RFR2

https://www.itead.cc/wiki/images/f/f8/Sonoff-Schmatic.pdf

It is using this Hongfa relay (one of well known brand)

https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/181027171...5-HS_C74541.pdf

The Relay is using 5V coil to switch connect the output .... wait a minute. It looks like the Sonoff has the N side directly connect from Input side to output side. Sonoff only connect and disconnect the L side only. So, it is not totally isolated as I previously thought.

I guess this is why LED slightly lit up. Once the supply is on the residual current leaked to the LED. Since that LED require very low current to operate, it lit up a bit.

A simple way to solve this problem would be to connect a 240V coil DPDT relay. You can just let the Sonoff to on and off the relay coil and get the AC directly from the supply. to the relay.

It hink it will not make any difference in this case the way sonoff designed it. The ghost voltage just have enough current o light those LED a bit.

Not sure what is new on this because no schematic is provided.

Tuya is an American-Chinese company founded by former Alibaba employees. Tuya itself does not make smart home products but provide platform to integrate many brands so that can reduce development ost

I learned from some of /k in this forum topic that most 20A smart switch is single pole. These are requirement from TNB for safety reason (on human, not eqiipment )

1) Electric water heaters is divided into 2 types, namely instantaneous water heaters and stored water heaters (storage tank type)
a) Instantaneous water heaters shall be equipped with a 2 pole control switch and its own residual current device. Storage water heaters (storage tank type) shall be installed with an isolator and its own residual current device; and

b) Water heaters exceeding 3kW shall be permanently connected to a 20A/30A rated circuit breaker/fuse with an isolator switch and residual current device.

2) Electric cookers exceeding 3kW shall have its own circuit connected permanently to a 30A rated circuit breaker or fuse with an isolator switch and cooker control unit incorporated with a 13A socket
outlet. Two or more cooker appliances may be installed in the same room within a distance of 2 meters.

3) Electric motors (fence gate, air conditioners, fountains, swimming pools, fish ponds, water pumps) exceeding 373W but not exceeding 2238W, shall be connected permanently to a 20A/30A rated circuit breaker/fuse together with an isolator, motor starter and 15A socket outlet. The motor starter shall be of Direct-On-Line type with the appliance together with the contactor, overload relay and on-off control. The circuit breaker/fuse which controls the motor circuit shall be capable of withstanding the starting current of the motor.

I guess you cannot find some to specific angle and height. Just go to any workshop that make cabinet perhaps.

Maybe just DIY using plywood

Yes. Deterrence before breaking in is the best way

Never installed one but wanting to have one just because hate to need to find key

I think should be no problem as long as having physical key as back-up. BTW, it is much more easier to cut grill than to open the lock in most cases.

Definitely not on this one. Many US thermostats are manually controlled stuff.