LOL...
Maxis router can reset through MyMaxis.
M9 mesh can reset through Deco app.
but if the internet is out, none can reset.

Probably then will need to have wifi plug connected to B618 on 4G network. While the rest of devices remain on fibre.

What a messy High-Availability (HA) of a Home Automation (HA) for a Holiday Accomodation (HA).

Eh, the multi-mode Zigbee hub no need to get signal from internet to switch the plug back on after a delay?

Change of plan. I bought 1 wifi power extension, 1 wifi socket, and 1 cheapo USB-LTE-WIFI as failover.

Home automation hub, alarm, and a USB-LTE-WIFI will load on wifi power extension. The individual socket will be managed individually through primary fibre wifi.

BTU and base wifi router will load on wifi socket + extension. The fibre devices can then be rebooted as a set through the LTE wifi.

All will pass through AVR and UPS.
The main wifi mesh for daily use will not be on UPS. No point waste UPS capacity during blackouts.

Zigbee/Wifi water heater switch 20A and 30A must use neutral wire? cannot use capacitor?

Not at the switch side..... arrrghhh why didn't i know of these switches BEFORE renovate....

***

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Sep 12 2022, 03:39 AM

***

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Sep 12 2022, 03:39 AM

***

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Sep 12 2022, 03:38 AM

***

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Sep 12 2022, 03:39 AM

If it's me, i'll buy the largest terminal block from electrical supply store, join the 3 to 1 side of the terminal, and on the other terminal's end just a single wire to the L of switch.

Of course, you will need to also buy a matching thick wire for the single wire on the other end.

Guys, this sort of multi-gang wall switches (max 10A).
I'm looking at 1 gang, 2 gang, 3 gang, 4 gang, probably 6 gang as well.

Assuming I will be able to pull neutral to the switch.
Are they able to handle 1 ceiling fan as well? say, on L1 or L2?



This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Sep 14 2022, 01:41 PM

You know how it is usually craped inside wall.
How's the inside behind the switch? Still can fit with all the wires? Or will I need those bracket thing to lift up and make room?

yesterday - after much staring contest at research into those 6-gang switches on offer - i realised that those are called "brazil" switches, and the size is 120mm as opposed to our standard 86mm.

so they are no-go.

apart from zigbee/wifi and ewelink/tuya; did you pay attention to the amperage of such socket when you buy?

i'm looking at my first wall socket in anticipation of installing fridge. the current plain socket is to be in rear and will no longer be accessible afterward, so i want to get it settled even before the rest.

what a pain to find that everyone were selling UK 3-pin for only 10A. not fond of the round one like yours as then i will waste too much space between fridge and wall with another layer of belkin surge protector.

I'm OCD about having everything the same; so either all socket or none 😤

start with the one that i cannot touch ever again.

and it's OCD fascinated to be able to see electrical stats appearing on my 30A switches for water heater. the one on right, for size comparison.
the 16A socket that i am waiting delivery of is supposedly capable of generating stats as well. it would be better within monitoring socket than having to install additional switches.



This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Sep 16 2022, 05:32 PM

finally the water heater arrived.

Idle, Low, Mid, Hi, with DC pump on max:





Alpha v10i, with a very noisy pump no different than AC, supposedly rated max 3.6kWh....

Most of the smart socket (wall-side) have 13A squarish pinholes. I only see 1 that offer 16A wall socket , but it is still squarish pinholes.

While plug-side, for 13A is squarish pins, and for 15A is roundish pins.

Can I just replace the 13A fuse inside those 13A plugs with 15A fuse? So that I can use those 16A wall socket with squarish pinholes with modded 15A squarish pin plugs

for aircond.

Yes, the roundish pin is larger than the squarish pin.

I see. So it's not a rating applied because of the fuse it contains.

Note-to-self:

Malaysian base plates are not deep enought to hole smart sockets.

Tested 5mm gap on an empty baseplate, without wiring behind.

developer used common baseplate embedded into the wall leh.

as @alucard89 wrote: need to order those spacer.
so far only found 15mm ones, not yet found 20mm or deeper.

would prefer deeper than 15mm for practicality; some of the wall even have gangs of 3 and 4, so I can already imagine the thick mess behind them even before opening.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Sep 26 2022, 10:31 AM