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 Smart Home, Let's discuss

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Zot
post Jun 3 2018, 05:58 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 3 2018, 12:26 PM)
Varistor join in parallel.

It normally use as protect the circuit or certain component. If you see some varistor in power board, you know it is good design.

You can read some detail in Google search. I not good in electronic.  blush.gif
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QUOTE(xboxrockers @ Jun 3 2018, 02:09 PM)
I’ve been designing PCB for some time and they pass common tests. It’s not required for all design to have a surge protection on design. But if the nature of the device is placed in a an environment where prone to lighting the the designer has to consider to include surge protector on the design
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The varistor looks like disc capacitor. Normally 3 varistors are used. Connections are:
1) L to N
2) L to E
3) N to E

It has many ratings depend on how much energy it can absorb. like xboxrockers said not many small devices have one. They are relatively cheap. The varistor is just a weak defense but just for minor voltage surge. It is not used much in electronic devices but more on electrical appliances because it is not fast enough to save sensitive electronics devices. Another problem is, it might get damage during surge and you still think that it is still protecting your device. Once damage it is more like no varistor and the device still work as usual.

Zot
post Jun 4 2018, 08:12 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 3 2018, 11:20 PM)
The cal lab nasty explode during watching TV. No lightning or raining that time. Probably some surge elsewhere.

No replace back. Just use the Belkin surge.

Still have 1 cal lab for the network system.
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Well, maybe some brand is better than other brand but my China cheap < RM15 unknown brand save my plasma TV last time when most houses in my area got damaged TV, even air-cond, fridge, and many appliances. Mine just a transformer to a microwave oven and a phone charger smile.gif
Zot
post Jun 4 2018, 08:16 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 3 2018, 06:21 PM)
As you said it is cheap little small component. It is better than nothing.

Why the design save on it if it have to deal with the grid power ?

Here I install varistor on a 3phase 200V electrical power.

Here my cal-lab surge protector using varistor component with a nasty explosion. I use this to protect AV. This is not my 1st time protector varistor explode.
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My auto-gate board has varistors on it but still damaged. It is something to do with poor board design. sad.gif

My current board is running fine for many years already even when there was occasional lightning
Zot
post Jun 6 2018, 12:17 PM

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QUOTE(Snoy @ Jun 6 2018, 11:51 AM)
Hi Guys,

Early this week, I had installed the long awaited smart lock for my house front door.
This is a good stuff... so it's worth sharing to you.

The model is U-tec Ultraloq UL1.
I got it from Indiegogo by backing the project.
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ultraloq...th-smart-lock#/

From my long research, it's the only digital lock in the market that fulfills my criteria below:
1. Door access with fingerprint, card and remote app access.
2. Compatible with IFTTT and Alexa (optional).
3. Compatible with most Malaysia door lock hole (important).
4. Competitive price.

Item #3 is very important for me.
I had installed the lock within an hour without the help from locksmith.. no modification on the wooden needed == no additional cost.

Of course, I also did some research on other digital locks from Gateman/Yale, Samsung, Xiaomi, Schlage, August and etc but none of them can fulfill my criteria.
The only downside for this Ultraloq is the company, U-tec is relatively new startup.
Good thing is... the lock works nicely on my door now.  biggrin.gif
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Nowadays it is a trend for small startup company with no capital to raise fund from public. Indiegogo is famous company for this fund raising. Many innovative projects from small startups are funded through Indiegogo.
Zot
post Jun 6 2018, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jun 6 2018, 11:58 AM)
Nice! Any photos of your installed lock?
How to know what’s compatible with our existing doors?
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I believe it is pretty standard. However, not all door handles/knobs sold in Malaysia is direct swap also. Hole might be a bit up or down, but still doable with minor trimming.
Zot
post Jun 6 2018, 12:34 PM

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QUOTE(lucaswjk @ Jun 6 2018, 12:29 PM)
how does it integrated with ur smarthome? ifttt?
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If WiFi is what you mean:

Attached Image
Zot
post Jun 6 2018, 01:12 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jun 6 2018, 12:58 PM)
not really. mine is a mortise lock
i took a look at the ultralok, it seems to be a dead bolt.
totally different from mine which wont fit as i already have a bigger hole to begin with  sad.gif
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Yes. Two main type of holes. The other is deadbolt/round knob. The latches hole sometimes just a little bit off but very minimum
Zot
post Jun 6 2018, 01:52 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 6 2018, 01:46 PM)
What is the manual unlock for emergency ?
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Axe laugh.gif
Zot
post Jun 11 2018, 08:49 AM

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QUOTE(meLi @ Jun 11 2018, 08:32 AM)
Thanks. Yes all info shown at the digital TNB meter. My house constantly 250V+ using 3 phase. Should I call TNB ?

Digital TNB - 250.3V+

Install AVR

After install AVR

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What is the AVR specified output voltage? If it is stated at 230V, then any input voltage variation, the output will keep at 230V
Zot
post Jun 11 2018, 09:45 AM

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QUOTE(meLi @ Jun 11 2018, 09:20 AM)
Input 170V-260V
Output 230V

[attachmentid=9850648]
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I didn't get it. Why you want to call TNB? Your voltage regulator will endure your voltage to be at 230V (+/- tolerance). Your AVR is working as it should be. hmm.gif

ooo you were talking about input voltage a bit high?

Read about this topic here:

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/691458/+640

Read what pascal said about the the TNB power line.

This post has been edited by Zot: Jun 11 2018, 09:56 AM
Zot
post Jun 11 2018, 10:13 AM

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QUOTE(meLi @ Jun 11 2018, 10:07 AM)
My input voltage at the TNB digital meter constantly above 250V. AVR only working at 1 plug only. The rest still high voltage 250V+. Just call TNB and make a report  ast them to check input voltage.

[attachmentid=9850723]

TNB meter above Voltage should not exceed 240V right ? Voltage 3 x 240/414V

I refer to your link https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/691458/+640#
Post #: 640

Can someone explain this. I'm not understand about this statement

Voltan Nominal
PEMBERITAHUAN
Adalah dimaklumkan bahawa Suruhanjaya Tenaga (ST) telah bersetuju untuk menetapkan pemakaian standard MS IEC 60038:2006 – IEC standard voltages sebagai voltan nominal bagi sistem bekalan voltan rendah yang baru di Malaysia iaitu 230/400V dengan julat +10% dan -6% pada frekuensi 50 Hz dengan julat ± 1%, menggantikan voltan bekalan sediada iaitu 240/415V dengan julat +5% dan -10% pada frekuensi yang sama.
Pemakaian standard MS IEC 60038:2006 – IEC standard voltages ini berkuatkuasa mulai 01 Januari 2008.

http://www.st.gov.my/ms/web/general/details/144
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Read post #651
Zot
post Jun 12 2018, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(gofey @ Jun 12 2018, 04:13 PM)
Hi Sifu,

I got Broadlink TC2 3 Gang switch and i link button 1 into 3 light, after i installed the first week suddenly 1 of the light bulb burned out so after i replace a new light bulb an hours later it burned out again on the same location as i set timer to turn off at 11PM automatic daily but i was doing something so i turn on manually

PS: i'm using Yeelight color bulb

total of the switch button got 7 yeelight which is 3x2x2 and the rest was fine only 1 always burned my bulb
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Most likely the voltage there is high for whatever reason. Do you have multimeter to check voltage?
Zot
post Jun 12 2018, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(alexander3133 @ Jun 12 2018, 06:37 PM)
I am wondering the nominal voltage published by ST of 230V, is this peak voltage?
http://www.st.gov.my/ms/web/general/details/144

The voltage measured by Sonoff or other energy meter also measure the peak voltage?
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It should be RMS. Then it is how the accuracy of the measuring devices. I think nowadays it should be pretty accurate because it is using IC.

Your voltage regulator is somehow lowered the voltage a bit laugh.gif
Zot
post Jun 13 2018, 08:05 AM

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QUOTE(gofey @ Jun 12 2018, 06:02 PM)
no i do not have but inside the broadlink box got 3 LED connector and i asked the vendor what is that use for and he say it is for if the LED light flickering then install at the light, do you think this can solve it? and how do i install is another problem  sweat.gif
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I have no idea what may have caused this.

You have 3 ganged switch and it switches 7 Yeelight bulbs:

SW1 > 3 bulbs
SW2 > 2 bulbs
SW3 > 2 bulbs

Did I understood this right?

Do bulbs are connected in parallel?
Which one of the bulbs always blown, the switch with 3 bulbs or with 2 bulbs?

They are not connector, but capacitor. The touch switch that require no Neutral wire has certain limitation. It has limit on lower end of load, meaning that if the bulb power is low like 3W (refer switch spec for actual wattage), the bulb light may become gleam or perhaps blinking. In this case, you need to connect the capacitor provided at the light socket in parallel with bulb (meaning connect between L and N wire). I think this is not your case. Refer this for capacitor connection:

http://www.broadlink.com.cn/en/downloads/mn/mn-tc2-eng.pdf

Note that the LED light main enemy is heat. If your bulb is installed in fixture that did not allow good heat dissipation, then the bulb can blown up too. Maybe this is the case.
Zot
post Jun 13 2018, 09:10 PM

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QUOTE(meLi @ Jun 13 2018, 04:49 PM)
[attachmentid=9854532]

This ?
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They called it adapter. Not sure if they have other component, but basically you just need a capacitor. Some touch switch comes with capacitor. Both so called adapter and capacitor are connected the same way

On second thought, it may just a resistor. Looks like a ceramic resistor

This post has been edited by Zot: Jun 13 2018, 09:47 PM
Zot
post Jul 2 2018, 10:29 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jul 2 2018, 10:22 AM)
i bought these but still havent install yet - https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=...+smoke+detector
you need the gateway if you want the "smart" features but it can work on its own too. I guess the Heiman probably works the same way
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I bought normal touch switch. Just OEM. No specific brand I think. It looks like once in a while when I switch off my ceiling fan (I believe) on 1st floor, it will trigger touch switch in kitchen, or/and bedroom and/or bathroom downstairs doh.gif

Did you heard any of this problem from others?
Zot
post Jul 2 2018, 10:45 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jul 2 2018, 10:42 AM)
hmmm.... hmm.gif

so you have many of these touch switches correct? are they hook up to a hub? using RF?
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No. It is just normal touch switch. No remote control or using hub whatsoever. Looks like the switch is triggered through electrical noise doh.gif Maybe need to try a capacitor across switch L and N blink.gif
Zot
post Jul 2 2018, 10:53 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jul 2 2018, 10:50 AM)
Touch switch smoke detector ?

Never heard before.
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Sorry I replied on smoke detector discussion. It was just touch switch (dumb with no remote or WiFi function).
Zot
post Jul 2 2018, 10:55 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jul 2 2018, 10:49 AM)
Cannot be that sensitive....
Maybe somebody else turn it on. Sometimes we forget
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No. I'm sure 100%. No one else switching on and off. Not always but I remember 3 times already within 5 mths maybe.
Zot
post Jul 2 2018, 10:57 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jul 2 2018, 10:55 AM)
You mean normal smoke detector ? Not the smart 1?

I have 2set normal smoke detector.
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No. I was talking about normal touch switch downstairs that switched on by itself when I switch off ceiling fan on 1st floor. smile.gif

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