How you planning to use it with alarm?

Here's the mount and brackets. U can't see the linen bracket cos it's behind the curtain bracket

Extra 1 neutral cable… and other than that is similar.

if not mistaken, without neutral, you should install LED (not CFL)  light on 1st switch, with capacitor bypass. Fan cannot be first.

and make sure your capacitor connect to Live before in enters device, and connect to Neutral after device. The Neutral is expected to be alive yaaa, not disconnected.

all switch, regardless number of gangs, have a "hidden" user.

A switch with it's own N connector behind


A switch that does not have dedicated N connector behind, will share L1 with sw1's. In this case you need to have capacitor for L1 to bypass device straight to N.


i suspect the fan changing speed affected the logic board, thus excess leak to the shared L1

Nah mate

He added that the current version of Alexa will remain free, and that a paid version would need to demonstrate more advanced capabilities and usefulness.

Limp said that the company had not discussed what price it would charge for the subscription, adding that "the Alexa you know and love today is going to remain free" but that a future subscription-based version is "not years away."

I'm actually starting to look into it. Will be integrated with HA also. From initial guide review... Yes... Looks complicated. Any luck on your side getting it up? What's the roadblock you faced?

Are you planning on getting a tpu to go with it?

did you ever get it work?
I think someone made a custom fork for it or something

I already bought the Coral TPU USB version from Amazon.

have anyone tried this method for latest daikin aircond with this remote ?

- i need VoIP to for home phone, and that also left me with having to retain ISP router
- 3 nodes of m9 plus mesh cannot sustain continuous connection of too many HAS devices, and does not support multi-SSID
- thus i had expand 4 nodes mesh using Maxis LG8245X10-6 to carve multi-SSID only on 2.4GHz

- LG8245X10-6 have limited entries for mac-based dhcp assignment (thus i can only assign to important devices),
- LG8245X10-6 only allow /24 LAN subnet size (254 possible IPs). i cannot resize to /23 (510 possible IPs).
- since the suspected behaviour of tuya wifi devices seems to be fetch new IP and not reuse what was previously assigned (trust me, a list of dhcp assignment for same mac), the only solution left under the constraint of all is to shortened the dhcp lease lifetime, so that those IP which was previously assigned and no longer used can be recycled as soon as practical.

--

can smartlife set fixed IP?
i don't accept "set up this server in order to do that" kind of solution.
not because i not techie, but i don't have time to continously maintain such set up, and if i die, nobody will be able to pick up. it must be a ready solution for non-techie to understand.

If Tuya they have a new unit that can incorporate with their ip camera, can see and control in 1 screen. See if Aqara have similar features.

this does seem easier to do, unfortunately not really an option for me - staircase ceiling light too high cant reach 

So I have 3 Aqara S1E that the screen is failing by flickering... I kinda enabled the standby screen so it is usually black color. Surprisingly now all of them seem to work fine again, no more flickering.

this may sound like a stupid question, let's say if i change my router to a diff model but maintain the same SSID and password, will all my smart home devices still auto connect to it and work as usual?

currently I plan on upgrading my stock unifi router (already wifi 6) to a better one, but my whole smart home had already been setup (tuya zigbee switches + a few wifi stuffs)

since im going from wifi 6 to wifi 6, will there be any issues? also they are all connected to 2.4ghz currently

why dont change since its underpowered and legacy? and how to check?