Just found one made in Malaysia but I think this is not cheap like Chine one

http://www.senzo.com.my/Smart-Switch-with-...entory-1-ON-OFF

The design

If you don't mind China one:

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/SESO....748615dfvTQXp0

Not sure if your gate way compatible with this one though

Edit again. I found branded one

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Aqar....748615dfvTQXp0

This post has been edited by Zot: May 31 2018, 09:58 AM

I noticed that on Aqara, but since it is used to signal hub, ... well that is like modification in the autogate control box Back to square one

Like most autogate system, they did not design everything. The black box in the controller box is the rf receiver module. It usually has long wire out to act as antenna. Try to put the wire outside the control box. This will improve reception. It can receive more than 50m away I suppose.

Not enough remote? I think you can buy additional from the gate installer

The auto gate motor usually runs on 12V DC. Not sure why they need that many relays but it is normally like that for two motors gate (left and right gate). Something like 1 relay engaged for high speed and 2 relay engaged for slower speed.

That black box is 3rd party RF receiver for remote control.

The relay thing is my guess. Never really study it.

The rectifier is the one looks like this for high current:



Normally the back-up battery is 12V. Instead of driving both motors at the same time during power failure, the gate is open/close one by one. I'm nor sure about motor speed control, either by voltage of duty cycle. Never really try to study it

You maybe right. I did not look carefully at the picture. There is a big transformer at the bottom there and this must be the one that drive the motor. Maybe an AC motor.

I see yours has big X'former which might be driving AC motor. The voltage might not be 240V, otherwise why need X'former?

I think test pen works only for higher voltage AC. However, be careful with test pen. If your body is isolated from the ground and you use test pen to check the Live wire, it will not light up. This does not mean the power is off

My auto-gate is different brand and I was told that it operates on DC motor, with backup battery in case of power failure. However, I did not see anything big. The rectifier is about the same and the X'former is also about the size of yours on left top corner

It is not the original because the original spoiled 2x. The guy who installed the gate is now selling own brand and he changed the board used by his company.

That black boxes are relays. Looks like the relay coil is using 9V. The contact can handle 120V at 3A

I think the input to the RF module is 24AC. The power is from main X'former. Inside the RF module the AC is converted to DC. The reason I said this is tha tthe smoothing capacitor is rated 50V 1000uF.

This post has been edited by Zot: May 31 2018, 02:49 PM

The 2 small diodes on the top and two capacitors are probably providing the power to the PCBA

Yes, that copper trace is heavy

So, what big transformer on other picture for?

This post has been edited by Zot: May 31 2018, 03:24 PM

If you have X'former with no center tap, you need 4 diodes to make full bridge to get full wave.



If you have center tapped X'former, you can have full wave rectifier with only 2 diodes.



Otherwise, you can also produce DC with just 1 diode. This is called half wave rectifier

It looks like that this RF module board get DC power from the main board through the Black and Red wire. That big capacitor 1000uF 50V is just to stabilize the incoming DC. The voltage then is regulated to 9Vdc to power the module through the voltage regulator RG2 at the tip of the capacitor.

The RF module receives the signal from remote to close contacts on both relays. One for right motor and the other for left motor. The relays act just like switches.

The relays on the main boards is switching the power on the motors.

This post has been edited by Zot: Jun 1 2018, 03:27 PM

The 9V is the coil voltage to open and close the relay.

Relay notation usually like this:
COM > Common
NO > Normally Open
NC > Normally Closed

It is like 1P2T (1 Pole 2 Throw) switch

So, when the coil is power, the COM will connect to NO. Otherwise, COM will connect to NC.

Never look at Sonoff product spec. Maybe others knew better. Which Sonoff model are you talking about? I can search for it.

I see that Sonoff has two different version, the 5V and 12V.

You need to know what is the voltage that comes from the Red & Black wire to the RF module. My guess it probably is 12V.

I don't think so because it looks like the power to the RF board is through Red/Black wire which go to that big capacitor directly. So, it cannot be AC voltage. Furthermore, the RG2 I believe is a voltage regulator, not a rectifier. The input is DC. It is step down voltage, which I think from 12VDC to 9VDC.

Side open probably mean open one side of the door. The other is open both door. Normally it is fix either one side.

The pictures show 2 different boards (notice the power connector orientation). The board dimensions are also different.

The 5V one can be powered from 5V supply or USB (5V)

The 12V one can be powered from 12V supply or USB (5V)

ok

I just noticed your drawing shows AC24V to RF board. This drawing is on main board?

That was how mine work before. There are a set of trimpot to adjust the time. How ever, my new card now works differently. It will open and then sense the load current. Once the doors are fully open and hit the limit, motor will still continue thus increase the current. The board sense the current and then stop the motor.

Not really. Mine motor is already more than 10 years. The board now is the 3rd one. The 2 previous one were timed based from original gate manufacturer. Both board were damaged by lightning. The design of the board was not good.

Original board has own varistor but that would not help much