Maxis is unlike Unifi:- RJ11 VoIP is with their ISP router, and if you follow @Anime4000 thread, he tested that the VoIP device must identify with certain string before Maxis allow login.
With Unifi is was easier since sub-1Gbps uses ONT with own RJ11, can pair with any router separately.

caaaan. i don't know about 1Gbps set up since its new, but the set up of 800Mbps and below is similar to Unifi, but TM don't allow access to the RJ11 of ONT, so have to rely on RJ11 of router.

If like me want to retain usage of VoIp, then have to continue using the ISP router or find ATA that can spoof model identification string.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Nov 7 2023, 02:00 PM

post #12031
post #12033
post #12035

- i need VoIP to for home phone, and that also left me with having to retain ISP router
- 3 nodes of m9 plus mesh cannot sustain continuous connection of too many HAS devices, and does not support multi-SSID
- thus i had expand 4 nodes mesh using Maxis LG8245X10-6 to carve multi-SSID only on 2.4GHz

- LG8245X10-6 have limited entries for mac-based dhcp assignment (thus i can only assign to important devices),
- LG8245X10-6 only allow /24 LAN subnet size (254 possible IPs). i cannot resize to /23 (510 possible IPs).
- since the suspected behaviour of tuya wifi devices seems to be fetch new IP and not reuse what was previously assigned (trust me, a list of dhcp assignment for same mac), the only solution left under the constraint of all is to shortened the dhcp lease lifetime, so that those IP which was previously assigned and no longer used can be recycled as soon as practical.

--

can smartlife set fixed IP?
i don't accept "set up this server in order to do that" kind of solution.
not because i not techie, but i don't have time to continously maintain such set up, and if i die, nobody will be able to pick up. it must be a ready solution for non-techie to understand.

correct.

consumer routers do support this.
but there is limit to the number of entries.

anyway, i was initially relating how i eventually solved the problem of my wifi-based HA devices keep falling offline.
partitioning by loads of SSIDs AND shortening the dhcp lease.
loads of SSIDs alone does not solve it.

for small number of wifi HA devices, maybe it's not apparent enough as you get to recycle IP even on long lease.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Nov 8 2023, 07:38 PM

i want to use zigbee.
BUT, no zigbee wall switch 4-gang w/ neutral.
and the zigbee UK 3-pin wall socket cannot tolerate above 250V, will turn off.

NO 4-gang w/ neutral.
not even 4-gang.

anyway, already water under bridge. all wall switches and wall sockets on wifi. 50-odd of them.

zigbee sockets with no tolerance above 250V, i put after AVR and UPS. the zigbee gateway can failover to standby 4G wifi if no fibre internet, so it's great to control restart of fibre internet and mesh and cctv from remote.

there's only 1 brand that provide zigbee UK wall socket in Shopee a year ago.
the model cannot pakai one. i bought 9 of them, all 9 will auto off immediately once voltage >= 250V. i complaint, but end result vendor only want to reimburse iinm cost of 1 unit.
i put those zigbee sockets AFTER cyberpower voltage regulator (this brand reduced voltage to 220V). certain 2000VA UPS (multi-brand) i found them also able to reduce voltage below 220V if not in passthru mode. so i serial both AVR and UPS together to make sure always around 220V.
those zigbee sockets i use them to restart fibre, cctv etc from remote; the zigbee gateway can failover to standby wifi network, which is great as even if it lose fibre internet when i restart fibre, it will switch to 4G internet, vice-versa. always connected.

their wifi version also with same usage metering is otherwise not having same issue.
i continue using the wifi version, about 30+ of them.

i had similar weird connect/disconnect when WPA2+WPA3 is enabled.
olay after back to WPA2.

i use both; UPS for internet uptime for eveything that is essential even during outage, and CCTV.

a batch of those round Zigbee sockets with power monitor that i bought will turn off when V>=250V. had to put them after CyberPower AVR (only this brand really bring down from 250V to ≈220V, or after those bulky 2000VA UPS (only ones which output to ≈220V).

earlier i said it's Zigbee round socket. i am mistaken. it's MOES Zigbee 3-pin wall socket.

i already ask TNB; you are slightly wrong.
the range is 230V +10% upper tolerance, not +10V tolerance.
so up to 253V is still within allowable range - but the Zigbee wall sockets w/ power monitor will turn off when it hits 250V. this causes problem if connected directly to wall, so as a workaround, i put AVR or UPS that can reduce to 220V.

it wasn't intended to use AVR or UPS like that.
it's just that the dealer refused/unable to offer firmware/solution to the turn-off, and instead offer to reimburse only the amount of 10% or 1 socket of the whole purchase. each of this cost around ~RM70, so you can imagine my disappointment for buying bulk for home upgrade. end up only usable as trailing gang after AVR or UPS instead of on the wall itself.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Jan 22 2024, 01:05 AM

the wifi version w/ power monitor of the MOES 3-pin UK wall sockets didn't have this issue, so i thought to buy the Zigbee variant as well and have it installed at random dispersed throughout house because it can act as Zigbee repeater; mana tahu the Zigbee one have this limitation instead. the round versions didn't exhibit this 250V limit.

- home alarm. with keychain remote and also mobile app.

- fertigation system that fires on time, 5-minutes, thrice every daylight.

- timer for border lighting.

- flood sensor (because it happened in the kitchen).
- i'm also thinking of gas sensor.

- light sensor, to make sure i don't unnecessarily turn on light where i put body heat sensor inside house and at front lawn. i want the light to be available not only when it's naturally dark at night but also whenever sky is dark, e.g. storm during daytime.

- i have 2 home automation network. one is fibre-internet based network for the usual wall sockets and home alarm and presence detection. another network is 4G-internet based just to control the Zigbee sockets of the fibre internet and cctv. if i want to reset fibre internet or cctv, i don't have to worry about losing control of their restart because it's done through 4G. and if i need to reset the 4G modem, its socket is on the fibre internet.

basically i repurposed the 4G router that is otherwise retired when fibre came in.

i think house sudah kena lightning.

1 Wifi wall switch no longer working.

gonna switch the switch to Zigbee version as trial. hopefully no need neutral.

1 breaker did trip.
1 wall switch not functioning.
10 random LED downlights all over the rear part of the house out for good.
all under same breaker.

avoid MOES UK Zigbee Wall socket.

i bitched before; bought 9 through China's official in Shopee and all of them auto switched off on their own whenever voltage >250V. Seller won't do anything except offer to reimburse cost of 1 socket.

my house is around 250V. for Malaysia, 253V is still within spec.

anyone knownof reliable tuya zigbee padlock?
"medium"-sized for gate and grill.
with respectable battery mileage before beeding recharge.

interested to have one; i can then install to receive direct-to-weekend-home bulk delivery in the middle of week.

Based off Smart Life app.

involving my
- PIR1 (door),
- PIR2 (window)
- Laundry Lights switch.

AUTOMATION 1


AUTOMATION 2


AUTOMATION 3


AUTOMATION 4


Algorithm.

1. Always remember, PIR remembers its own "motion detected" for about 2 minutes before it resets and be useful for next "motion detected".

2. The Automation Manual OFF/ON will control whether you allow Automation Auto ON to take effect.
You don't want Automation Auto OFF/ON to wreak havoc if you intentionally and manually switched ON, right?

3. The Automation Auto ON is only enabled by and after Automation Manual OFF.

4. The Automation Auto OFF is only enabled by and after Automation Auto ON.

5. If anyone manually switches OFF before Countdown expires, the switch will forget about the Countdown. This is intentional.

6. DO NOT USE DELAY+EXPLICIT OFF in the Automation Auto OFF; you do not want
(i) the Automation was triggered some time ago, and
(ii) someone actually manually switched ON while the DELAY is still not expiring, and
(iii) ended up in dark after DELAY eventually expires and EXPLICIT OFF is finally processed.

7. If done right, your AUTO ON/OFF will not interfere with manually operating the switch OFF/ON.



edit:
1. swapped order of creating Automation 1 and Automation 2

2. updated image to remove wrong arrow flow.

3. add step for Automation Auto ON to remove countdown possibly already set in-progress by prior Auto OFF invocation.

4. add more PIR3, PIR4 as example if more PIRs or sensors are involved. mmwave?

--

DELAY is pausing processing of the automation ON THE SERVER. It does not take into account if the state of involved devices had changed while it is pausing. you will run unto awkward unintended outcome when processing is resumed.
COUNTDOWN is processed by the device itself, thus allowing it to abort the countdown when its own state changes.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Jul 3 2024, 08:27 AM

1. "Then I disable myself" should be put last in the list of Thens.
We cannot predict how the server will treat such instruction, now and in future. What if put it at NOT at last in the list and it causes even the current invocation to be aborted right there and then, leaving the rest in the list of Then unexecuted. So don't take risk of premature abort.

--

Actually aaaa, if based on the conditions of Automation Auto OFF, in which it does not execute if Lights is not ON, to make it simpler, can remove and modify the following Thens.

(2) Automation Auto OFF does not need to disable itself.

(3) Automation Auto ON does not need to enable Auto OFF.

(4) Automation Manual ON need to disable both Auto OFF and Auto ON.

(5) Automation Manual OFF need to enable both Auto OFF and Auto ON.

--

can i suggest:
- get magnet from Daiso. those small but powerful ones.

- if your gate is sliding type to close, then paste the magnet farther from edge of the closing pole/pillar. just far enough that it triggers the sensor on pole/pillar..

- if your gate is swing-to-close or foldable, try to see if you can paste the magnet in-between the two sides of the swing gate. adjust the distance of sensor on the opposing side, just enough to respond to the magnet.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Jul 6 2024, 10:01 PM