I did this with whatever is next to switch (be it A/C or 3-pin sockets), under assumption all N goes direct to same connection point at the db mains.

(1) Is this a consumable?

(2) Possible for me to install 2 or more in parallel configuration? To extend lifespan and longer wear-and-tear.

Background:
I found the LED lighting that I had this installed to flickering. And the smart wall switch that controls it is dead in water, not lighted up, not responding. Off-On MCB only returned switch's functionality for an undetermined short length of time.
The switch returned to normal function and flickering stops after I replaced the capacitor.

while i don't use smart door knob or variant.

i use home alarm panel + remote keychains. when you leave far far, you will carry keychains anyway, right?
it's like (dis)arming vehicle alarm everytime i leave and return.
all doors and windows have contact sensor.
just have event-driven scene automation.

modes
• arm away (like, really leaving home, all sensors inside out expected to be shut)
• arm home (maybe you just want to go shop next door, just exterior sensors expected to shut)

not using z2m, but for the make and model i use, long-press on the individual switch's button that i want to (re)name.
my bad. answered based on SmartLife.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Sep 21 2023, 08:41 PM

my bad. answered based on SmartLife.

This using Zigbee Gateway, right?
I sometimes meet this.
I assume if the trigger condition is simple, the zigbee gateway can perform it without instructed from Internet. If you add another condition making it "a AND b" or "a OR b", then it becomes complex and zigbee gateway unable to perform on its own.

I toyed around just now with just time condition, like yours. But I cannot get the local association to appear. (shrug)

did you add the repeater to the hub it is supposed to extend for?

Repeater is hib-specific.
Eventhough I have 3 zigbee hubs in the same home, my repeater only repeat signal of the hub i paired it with.

I just recalled why did I bought zigbee repeaters.

the zigbee door sensor, and zigbee presence sensor at the far end of house keep getting notification as being too far and weak inside smartlife app.

after adding the repeater "halfway" in-between, such notification stopped.

if you want to test out your repeater, maybe, i suggest to temporarily switch repeater off, then put a spare zigbee device so far away until you get error about its signal being weak, for few days just to establish a pattern. then switch the repeater back online, see if that makes a difference. now you will know whether your repeater is actually doing anything.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Oct 10 2023, 01:46 PM

yes, my furthest zigbee also never went offline. just the smartlife app keep complaining bad signal or something like that. the repeater eliminated that message for good.

if not mistaken, without neutral, you should install LED (not CFL) light on 1st switch, with capacitor bypass. Fan cannot be first.

and make sure your capacitor connect to Live before in enters device, and connect to Neutral after device. The Neutral is expected to be alive yaaa, not disconnected.

i had the same issue with LED on 1st flickers regardless 2nd is ON or OFF.

• 1st instance, smart switch connected to a Neutral that is going nowhere. I tapped Neutral from a neighbouring aircond switch, BUT, due to confusion, I had tapped the one that is ingress toward switch (and thus is disconnected state when aircond switch is OFF) and not egress from the switch. I only realised the mistake after eventually noticed it never flickered when aircond switch is ON.

• 2nd instance, smart switch without Neutral, and the capacitor I installed at LED tube on 1st had "burnt". It stopped flickering after I replaced capacitor.

if flickers, that means there is residual energy (from the smart switch operating itself) still reaching your 1st device. no other reason and you have to t/shoot around this. the flickering is because that energy need to be expended by the device itself as it have no way to dissipate it otherwise.

that's why you either
• have the switch direct into Neutral, or
• have a capacitor collect before it reaches device, and then release it off by skipping the device.

you use capacitor, right? replace your capacitor on 1st' path. it might be a dud or already faulty.

if you have Neutral connected direct to the switch, check back that Neutral's path really connected all the way back to MCB.

edit:
looking at the vid, maybe it has something to do with you having a fan with that type of speed control. as the energy on 2nd is "disturbed" "slower"/"faster" as you change speed, un..controlled excess goes out via 1st, and more than what capacitor can absorb in short time, so most of the excess reaches your 1st device.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Oct 14 2023, 10:09 AM

all switch, regardless number of gangs, have a "hidden" user.

A switch with it's own N connector behind


A switch that does not have dedicated N connector behind, will share L1 with sw1's. In this case you need to have capacitor for L1 to bypass device straight to N.


i suspect the fan changing speed affected the logic board, thus excess leak to the shared L1

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Oct 14 2023, 12:33 PM

I just use TP-Link Tapo C2xx camera for yelling purposes

no correct answer.
you have to test which cable comes from DB and which goes back to DB.
that will be the L and N expected by the switch for its logic board to operate.

if you instead connect L that is supposed to go out to your device, then the switch won't be powered.

if you instead connect N that is supposed to come back from device, then the switch won't be powered.

correct.
connect the N that goes to DB. L masuk bawa arus dari DB, N pulangkan arus ke DB.

else how is your logic board gonna function? L masuk bawa arus, N keluar going nowhere....

PIR? or the actual presence sensor?

in my case, infound that 3 nodes of M9 Plus mesh cannot sustain continuous connection.
some switches will eventually fall offline never to return.

eventually had to make use of Maxis mesh nodes to carry the wall switches, spread over multi-SSID, and set DHCP lease max 4hrs.

something about a hunch that previously when they go offline, they reconnect to wifi then asked for a totally new IP, eventually exhausting the DHCP /24 pool. So i shortened the lease time so that used IP can be reused as soon as practical.

This post has been edited by Oltromen Ripot: Nov 7 2023, 11:53 AM

consumer routers have limited entries for mac-based assignment.
and those tuya devices can't set static IP inside.
i don't have fancy HA server. just smartlife.
always think about what-if-i-die-and-no-one-can-continue.