Thanks once again for your help dest! Will try to source for it on Shopee or Lazada 👍

Anything don’t know install maybe can look for you for advise again 😂

Any other smart item that you bought and feel it’s well worth the price?

Thanks Nate! Really appreciate it.

You bought 1 channel one as well? What’s the difference between 1ch or 2ch? Is it that if 1ch we can’t control the gate open one leaf or both leaf?

Hi, I am renovating my new house and I figured to have at least 1 smart switch installed in each room. Anyone could suggest me a worthy and reliable brand? Thanks a lot.

Ps: I have neutral.

This post has been edited by James Teo: Apr 22 2023, 04:48 AM

Depends on your requirement, my gate is Dcmoto. It only has single input.. open both gates 😅 a bit stupid this thing.

One thing I plan to do in future is just connect a 4 channel to the remote. Then trigger remote so I can do left or right side or both.

Ouch I just placed my order for dcmoto as well since seemed like quite a lot of peoples recommend this model.

Do you mean we going to buy the same Athom board but with 4 channel? Then connect it to dcmoto remote? Sorry as I’m quite new with this thing and learning from you all

What’s your preference?
Touch, push button type or stick to the current switches at home?

I'm currently using moes zigbee switch for my entire house switches. Been really reliable using the zigbee version.

Either touch or button is fine, not sticking into current switch since I am replacing them.

I suggest zigbee la, too many wifi switches end up you need to buy a very good router that dan support so many devices

No difference from getting a zigbee hub

I have 20-odd wifi wall switches, 40-odd wifi wall sockets, 20-odd misc wifi devices (sensors, bulbs, hubs); and yes, maintaining uptime using mesh is not fun. already add to become 4-nodes, split into 3 SSID, and shortened wifi lease to 4hrs, and after 2 weeks of stability after whole house power reset, yesterday i start finding sockets going offline. aarrrghhhh...........

i'm starting to believe short bursts of 20-odd is the max that an SSID is actually able to deal with in reality....

What router you using btw? I'm using the unifi AZ technology router and wirh 12 devices connected, some start to go offline lol

Luckily i have another tenda router and I connect the cctv and zigbee hub to it to ensure proper uptime

For HA and CCTV, I put them on 4-node Maxis LG8245X6-10 fibre router+mesh.
SSID1 (2.4GHz-only) specific for 20-odd wall switches, for reliability purposes. This one I cannot take chance being offline. So far no issue.
SSID2 (2.4GHz-only) specific for 40-odd wall sockets, again for reliability, but doesn't seem to be holding up after 2 weeks.
SSID3 (2.4GHz-only) for 20-odd miscellaneous, for reliability purposes. So far no issue.
SSID4 (5GHz-only) dummy no purpose except I because I am not sure if it is necessary for 5GHz backhaul to be available at all.

For laptop, mobile devices, etc, i still rely on venerable Deco M9 Plus (2.4GHz+5GHz) on AP-only mode.

I found that the Tuya devices can renew a different DHCP IP altogether. Huawei LG8245X6-10 unfortunately only allow /24 subnet size, it didn't allow me to increase pool to /23. So workaround to make sure there is always sufficient IP to dish out is reduce DHCP lease to 4hrs.

Also, connect them to 2.4GHz-only SSID. I read and was impressed on, that if transmitter uses same SSID on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz, the Tuya devices will hit issue when transmitter keeps tells it to move to 5GHz. Or something like that.

The Zigbee hubs can have alternate wifi network and it will switch when the current one is not working. I have Huawei B618 4G router as failover for those Zigbee hubs; separate zigbee-based sockets for CCTV, fibre modem, alarm will remain controllable, pending failover, in the event my fibre network is interrupted.

Just wanted to update, it works !

ZigBee smart switch arms/disarms the vivos (works in homekit and tuya).

When armed, vivos alarm sends 12V to the DV relay which closes the loop of a ZigBee contact sensor, giving me a status in homekit/tuya. Once contact sensor is open or closed, stateful dummy switch turns on or off accordingly, allowing me to use that in Google home to announce that the vivos alarm is armed.

Works all ways. Keypad engages the relay. Vivos app engages the relay. Homekit/ tuya engages the relay.

Couldn't be happier.

So your alarm system can be armed by that 12V relay? Neat... mine need to type in keypad number before it arm or disarm... I can't use this concept I guess?

umm not really, if you go back to my post, i can arm with a Normally Open and COM input

the 12V relay is status of the alarm output to the 12V relay + contact sensor combo

I think you probably can look for your wiring diagram to see if you can use or not. My one also uses keypad or app.

If you use homekit, you can integrate your tuya zigbee devices into homekit using the zemismart homekit zigbee hub

Aqara zigbee devices are local when they are controlled using homekit. but when used in Aqara/Mi Home app, they run on the cloud

Got it, need to check my board if it supports such arm/disarm. Would be nice to have this function.

Ah ok, so its the same as what I'm experiencing. Thanks.

Guys, what is the odd that my smart switches were actually fried by lightning?

Lightning strikes somewhere near, the jolt travels via water piping.
Since my sprinkler tank is somewhat connected to water mains, the inlet valve is always submerged right under water surface, and my pump is inside the water, the jolt travels back towards the smart socket and *poof*.

Is that probably even if imaginative? Since I cannot think of WHY(!!!!??????) digital timer, analogue timer, smart switches all *poof*. Will adding a surge suppressor (belkin in mind) between pump and (smart) switch helps?

Possible from lightning, but there's no way to suppress lightning regardless what u do, u need to make sure it's the path of least resistance only

I am looking to DIY and replace my current home switch to smart switch and would need help on some questions.

3 switches need to replaced in total
- 2x two gang (1x light and 1x fan)
- 1x three gang (2x light and 1x fan)

This is how the 2x two gang is wired. I do have neutral hidden and unused. (EDIT: green might be earth as pointed out by member)




For the three gang switch. There is no neutral.



In my case, what is the best setup that can work with my Alexa? Shall I go with
1. all no neutral switches
2. two with neutral and one without neutral switches
3. all with neutral switches? (Can I borrow the neutral from the AC switch next to it?)

This post has been edited by melvinchng: Apr 30 2023, 10:27 AM