depends on alternator specs IIRC

tolong upload kan to my FTP 10Q

2 only lar

not sure if can sell cos there is a 900S 2.3i year 1995 selling for rm58k

what sort of high current device you want to fit in?

fyi available current = total current - active devices punya current.

so usually there isnt much left hence the light dimmings if theres too many devices to power. and btw please use the proper wire size for any high current consumption. you dont want to free the wire.

hehehehehehe

i'll be using 4x 3.6W devices powered from the cabin light. intending to do the wiring using 28 gauge wires, from the connectors in serial. or maybe parallel since they are located across from each other. need to check things first. current draw is i think less than 15A so it should be fine kua

eh boss

4 * 3.6W = 14.4W

Power = Voltage * Current
: Total Current in series = 14.4 / 12 = 1.2A

: Total Current in parallel = ( 14.4 / 12 ) / 4 = 0.3A

for 15A, power rating is 180W. the higher current = the higher power rating it will be. if really max 15A current is used, 28 gauge wire will be fried or will be very hot already. malaysian standard wall plug has a fuse rating of 13A and the wire used is thicker than 28 gauge.

hold on a min.....
dammit forgot all my electrical calculations

If im using 4x of these =
DC forward voltage : VF (IF =20mA) : 3.2V-3.4V Typ, 3.8V Max
DC reverse current : IR (VR =5V) : 100uA

means that i need to use ultra-thick cables?
because the total draw on the circuit is only........... 400uA....which is less than 1A.....right?

thick cable only when theres high current ler. water pipe analogy: pipe as the cable, water as the current. big fat pipe = lots of water able to flow through it.

22 / 28 gauge will be fine in your case.

f&f club suddenly become kemahiran hidup class

yeah but still..according to the specs, i should be just fine with 28 gauge cables, right? as the total A draw is only 400uA......correct?

i need some reassurance before pulling out my trusty 20 year old soldering iron

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Added on June 12, 2007, 10:09 pmalvin = oh yeah, especially when you're messing around with your car's electrical systems XD

don't want it to burn down, now, don't we?

i'm also thinking of adding a dimmer circuit using capacitors...hmmmmmmm pening. probably gonna ask electrican to help me solder it all up XD

This post has been edited by kev da man: Jun 12 2007, 10:09 PM

current draw follow IF =20mA ler. so 20mA * 4 = 80mA.

IR (VR =5V) : 100uA << this is for reverse current / voltage.

heh mention bout solderin iron. damn tulan with bombman. kanasai ordered goot from him since last wednesday. said stock arrive the next day and it turns out he's gonna send it out tomoro only. tats hopefully he sends it out. tnsmch

what dimmer circuit? mari pass me schematic i manufacture a PCB for you.

i ordered the soldering iron from bombman on wednesday night, got mine on friday xD

dimmer circuit? kenamerc ar?

goddamn i need an instructable on drawing up schematics LOL!!!!

luckily i didn't order them LEDs from him

im not sure what caps i will need, the dimmer circuit has to work after the current has been switched off. kinda like how you see those interior lights on a beemer goes off about 3 seconds after closing the door *ahem*

schematic belum draw yet la still ordering parts and see how it goes 1st. anybody got lubang for luxeon star IIIs?? philips duwan to choi my enquiries from last week :S

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Added on June 12, 2007, 10:58 pm

a rough sketch of how the wires will go. i don't know where to splice in the caps, and what caps to get to power the LEDs for a couple of seconds after the circuit has been switched off....

This post has been edited by kev da man: Jun 12 2007, 11:02 PM

you dont connect your LEDs in that way
one burn, no light will come out, connect it parallel(you need resistors, else it will burn the LED)

anyways, if you want to delay the turn off of the circuitry, you cant just dump the cap in itu saja, its not so easy

try this

beachboy banyak pro wor....
think resister u need 1k cukup liao for each LED

also, if u wire it like shwon in the diagram, it won't be as bright...
actually, it won't be bright at all

Wah kev, you wiring man part time ka? Can help me rewire my room? Turn on fan only but one shot all the lights also open together Haha joking laaa...the 'real' wiring man coming tomorrow. Haihhh...sleep with air cond only. Air feels so dry

http://www.metku.net/index.html?path=mods/hdd_eyez/index_eng
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=122749

R1 is a must and not an if if you dont want to blow the LEDs. the LEDs are best in parallel since you want a standard brightness for all of them.

puta - thanks! but that also means TONS of wires going in and out of my cabin light module

hmmmmmmm i ordered 130000 mcd LEDs min voltage of 2.5V so it still should work.

tarak - i mau bikin new style of cabin lights

This post has been edited by kev da man: Jun 13 2007, 12:12 AM

that aside, kev da man.. you mau start thread V5 when this one habih?