Yup, they are desperate for sales. I believe only dealers will be desperate for sales, hence give more discount, but not HQ Bermaz Auto SA.

Used Falken tyres on a Land Cruiser (my dad's) once before, every corner sure got screeching sound, even cornering at 40km/h. It could be the tyre sidewall is rounder, hence the tyre screeching sound when taking corners. Sound like drifting, but looks like understeering. Later changed to BFGoodrich & Michelin tyres, no more screeching sound on both. So either something is wrong with Falken tyres design or the secret recipe used to make the tyres.

Should be expensive. Performance tyres.

Could look for 205/55R16 (+0.8% bigger than original), according to Toyo, 205/55R16 T1R can fit 5.5j rims. Not sure about others, but according to this blog, price for 205/55R16 Michelin is about RM458 (XM2) to RM550 (Pilot Sport 3).

Only have to watch out whether it rub against the fender or wheelwell, +1cm on each side of the wheel.









This post has been edited by RicoT: Apr 10 2015, 03:44 PM

Cheaper than expected, and it is SC price. If they really import the 185/60R16 Dunlop in, replacement shouldn't be a problem.

Sorry to hear that, this is what M2 owners are fearing before you mentioned SC has stock. You are many M2 owner savior. So tyre problem solved. Expensive a bit for now, but better than cannot change at all.

Last time my S-Hybrid Serena got nailed at the sidewall even before collect car, they ask me to go SC change without charges, asked what is the price, quite expensive, something like RM600/pc? Bridgestone Ecopia.

little-sama Time to update the front page, Mazda Bangi SC sells RM350/pc Dunlop original tyre.

Supplier will import the size, just don't know what is the price and availability at every tyre shop, most probably tyre shop be like "you want can order for you" type, don't keep stock. As always doing business, if can sell by volume, stock up in volume to get cheaper price since other competitors are also eyeing on the market; if cannot sell by volume, then don't stock and priced it higher a bit because need to earn the same amount to make a living.

This post has been edited by RicoT: Apr 10 2015, 05:10 PM

Use spare tyre until they received the stock, usually within two or three days, even my old '06 Honda City 185/55R15(?), not everywhere has this size. They recommend change to 195/50R15.

It depends on the width of the tyre too.

Rim diameter (inch) × 25.4 + 2 × (Tyre Width × Side Wall %)
I.e. 185/60R16
16" × 25.4 + 2 × (185 × 60%) = 628.4mm

225/50R16
16" × 25.4 + 2 × (225 × 50%) = 631.4mm

Ride height +3mm

Is it common to ask "who's car is this" in LYN?

Lol! Do a yam cha session to catch everyone here.

Could it be a diesel test donkey running around here?

I asked my SA, she said can pay in cheque. No need cash.

Different dealer different policy maybe?

After rain or overnight moisture, or maybe after car wash, yes it will rust. It is normal.

Going thought puddle of water won't have this problem, it is the long exposure to moisture after driving will make the disc brake rust, i.e. after parking at home at night and suddenly it rains overnight. After the rain, there will be a thin layer of brownish rust on the disc, but after you drive and use the brake, the rust will come off, and back to shiny disc. The brownish rust on the rim may be due to some water rolling off the disc and onto the rim.

Yes, disc brakes are made of cast iron, not stainless steel. Hence it will rust, but if I am not mistaken, for every 2 to 3 brake pads change, most probably the disc will be thin and need to be changed due to wear and tear. No worries about rusty/dirty brake disc, no need to clean. It is normal. If it ain't dirty, it ain't working.

This post has been edited by RicoT: Apr 12 2015, 01:58 AM

I have yet to receive my M2, so ok.I will take note of it. Thanks.

between the door and dashboard?

No, it is not a good idea, never put lubricant onto the disc brakes!

It may help with the rust, but your brakes is the one that stop your car. WD-40 is also a lubricant.

Leave the brakes be.

SC will most probably advise you it is normal to rust. Also, the disc rotors will be changed when the brake pads changed 2 to 3 times due to the thinning of brake rotors.

You get it sprayed, and later change rotor, rust again, spray again?

With or without coating, there will be stone chips, same goes with bird droppings. A car will encounter all these throughout its lifetime. I know the feeling to own something new, owner will sayang the car a lot when brand new.

But remember this well, a car is to be used, and it will be damaged no matter how careful you are. If you used it day in day out, no matter the what damage it suffered, nor the mileage it rakes up, it has served you well, and it is worth every money you spent on buying the car.

Don't worry about stone chips/bird droppings/accidental damage, it is a car, use it, and let it assist you in what it is made for.

Horse and man one body, if man scare horse got scar, then might as well don't get a horse.

In the end, polish/respray can help you regain the shine back. How much does it cost to respray?

Welcome to Mazda 2 club and family.

If you got spare time, and want to exercise, wax yourself, but remember to wax the car in one shot. Else, send it to car wash and let them wax, they might have package. Or those on Groupon if you feel it is not worth spending so much on a car after 5 years.

No cure for all cars, there will be rain sound from the roof no? It also depends on the size of the rain drop.

1) I buy an M2, because I feel it is worth the price. After 9 years, every RM90K car should have at least RM22k worth. I am selling my '06 City and asked around 2nd hand car dealers, RM20k - 23k range. All car value will drop eventually, value high or low, it all depends on the reliability. VW Golf 1.4L TSI, original cost I believe RM140k+, 2012 car now cost RM79k selling at a 2nd hand car dealer.

2) Honda City '06, cost me about RM360 per normal service at Honda SC with fully synthetic engine oil (for 10,000km interval, I set my own since every 5,000km after X0,000km is just normal service), RM2,500+ for absorbers & undercarriage links, changed 3 times throughout 9 years (200,000km), brake pads front and rear (forgot price) 4 times, brake rotors (RM1,100(?) for front pair) 1 time, air filter, fuel strainer, aircon filter, idle pulley, clutch flywheel once RM1,200, spark plugs 5 times RM400(?), brake fluid, CVTF, aircon pulley, beltings, 1 set of rims, 3 sets of wheels, wheel bearings one set, etc.

So, since Mazda 2 is also a B-segment car, I expect it will cost about the same as Honda City for maintenance. It won't cost a lot as maintaining a Mazda 3/Honda Civic (C-segment) of course, try ask for Mazda 3 CKD Hi-spec 18" Toyo T1S tyres price and see?

Looking at your feedback, the maintenance cost for Mazda 2 is about the same as Honda City ('06 VTEC version). I expect it will be around this price range if we considering have our cars service at SC.

Yes, engine coolant. In fact they recommend to change every 100,000km, but that is for winter countries, since the anti-freeze (glycol) absorbs water over time, it will lose its anti-freeze effect. The car coolant is a close-loop system, and you need to check the small water reservoir besides with radiator every month, and top up with distilled water, not mineral water. If there is a hole at the radiator, it will leak and time to repair.

You are referring to?

This post has been edited by RicoT: Apr 13 2015, 11:08 PM

I do own 2 City, '04 and '06, the 04 City changed gearbox, and replaced more stuff than my 06 City. To sell it now, seems like not worth it to let go, hence selling my 06 City instead. But, 04 City has better fitting and NVH insulation than 06 facelift version.

The new torque convertor type CVT used by Honda is proven technology, used in Nissan Xtronic CVT, Toyota eCVT. The older Honda clutch type CVT is no longer used. Only problem with torque convertor is loss of power, the latest City doesn't accelerate faster than older clutch CVT City.

Honda did say the CVT belt is lifetime guaranteed.
So to them and the belt manufacturer, they can claim a new one, fit it in, refurbish the whole gearbox, and sell as new spare parts.

To us, we have to pay for the CVT gearbox replacement.

Compression ratio might be lowered for turbocharged Skyactiv-G. Else, the whole top will explode, or run on RON100+ fuel only.