cant wait for MG Fenice Rinascita!
Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V36, celebrating 35th anniversary!
Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V36, celebrating 35th anniversary!
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Mar 23 2015, 10:04 PM
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#1
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
cant wait for MG Fenice Rinascita!
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Apr 1 2015, 09:40 PM
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#2
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
QUOTE(KayK @ Apr 1 2015, 09:21 PM) didnt know about that...has been thinking that p-bandai stuff (no matter is kit or add-on parts) is only available while stock last... for the people that lives outside the market of p-bandai, p-bandai price is never reasonable. It is just part of the hobby that we need to accept.might just get the wing expansion for strike freedom if the price is reasonable... |
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Apr 6 2015, 08:11 PM
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#3
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
QUOTE(mdshaman @ Apr 6 2015, 07:54 PM) Maybe there's a misundersanding here. I'm not arguing the efficiency of paint brush vs air brush. We all can agree on that, air brush wins on all account. I tried vallejo for hand brush painting some test parts (it works great by the way). But tbh, I rather spray paint for big parts and do hand brush for detailing. Handbrushing just consume lots of PATIENCE.But ONLY for detailing small parts? THAT is arguable. |
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May 6 2015, 01:28 AM
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#4
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
articulation is limited for MG/Inner frame as well when you put on the armor. The reason can be varied but I rather like that RE/100 exist since those niche machine that can never be produced as MG will at least get a 1/100 model with MG-enough details/proportion.
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May 12 2015, 03:26 PM
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#5
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0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
QUOTE(Snake'eyes @ May 12 2015, 02:25 PM) kit = Assembly kits yeah, Kit is assemble and paint(optional) it yourselfFigure = Ready kits without assemble? ist that right? thanks while a figure, is already built and much more playable since everything is really fixed together. But it prone to get loose joint overtime if you overplay Depending on the line of the figure, some has more details, more articulation, bigger or smaller which all can be a factor on the price. A higher end figure or a collectible usually has diecast content as well (on the joints or full inner frame) |
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May 15 2015, 06:31 PM
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#6
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
pencil/lead is shiny, this will be fixed if you will seal it with matte or satin finish. The good thing about it is that if you mess up, it will be easily removed if you wanted to.
This post has been edited by chyll2: May 15 2015, 06:31 PM |
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Jun 26 2015, 06:26 PM
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#7
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 26 2015, 06:19 PM) I am from PH and I've been buying from mandarake for more than a year now. Previously they will only say OK whenever i say, to declare this to that. But lately, they will warn you that they wont be responsible to any negative aspect of under-value an item but they will still do it. Whenever you order or check out, just provide in the comment how much or what words will be used to describe the item.Please take note that under-valuation of item also affects the insurance claims if ever the package gets lost. It is the risk I take for paying lower taxes. (my tip to all of my friends buying from JP, make the price low but realistic) |
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Jul 2 2015, 09:14 PM
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#8
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
QUOTE(Chiaroscuro @ Jul 2 2015, 06:57 PM) for sinanju gold part, no one try micro masking? the problem is masking the circular edge, if you can micro mask the gold parts in sinanju, i think reverse wash is more do-ablejust spray the gold, mask it, then spray the black. any flaw at gold part touch up using marker |
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Jul 13 2015, 11:54 AM
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#9
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
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Jul 15 2015, 12:20 PM
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#10
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0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
I think I am in the minority here. I actually like the design, especially the weapon.
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Jul 18 2015, 08:07 AM
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#11
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
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Jul 22 2015, 02:59 PM
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#12
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
I really like how bandai they do chrome except that it is still attached to a runner which means, there is still a nub no matter how careful you are on cutting it from the runners. Anyway, RG = auto buy
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Jul 22 2015, 04:27 PM
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#13
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Newbie
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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Jul 22 2015, 03:06 PM) for bare plastic, I've been using Oil paints (from any art shop) and rectified turpentine (oil paints can be thinned with linseed oil as well). It works like enamel wash but much easier. After 8hrs, (i usually do panel line before I sleep) I can do clean up with q-tips but no thinner is needed to do the clean up since the oil paint is still have not dried. (my problem with enamel that once it has dried, it can easily stain plastic) |
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Jul 22 2015, 05:12 PM
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#14
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
p-bandai release
MG Fenice renascita in wings tv color. http://p-bandai.jp/hobby/item-1000098218/ ![]() This post has been edited by chyll2: Jul 22 2015, 05:15 PM |
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Jul 24 2015, 06:18 PM
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#15
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for someone who painting the gold, they would rather have puke gold. To be honest, bandai cant win on this
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Jul 26 2015, 12:49 PM
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#16
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QUOTE(advocado @ Jul 26 2015, 09:08 AM) solid plastic to make it look like in the show, some white in the middle of the blade to make it look like lighting up, i don't think people use transparent or metallic paint, just normal red/pink/white. check this blog entryhttp://mxgs.blogspot.com/2010/04/two-tone-...need-bosny.html |
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Jul 26 2015, 01:10 PM
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#17
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2013 |
QUOTE(advocado @ Jul 26 2015, 12:54 PM) i want to know how a painted saber should look like, can't find much reference online, most painted kits don't show their sabers. https://playevolution.wordpress.com/2012/01...ng-zero-custom/https://hamstercorp.wordpress.com/2012/06/1...mashii-banshee/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9B9cct0cx4k |
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Jul 27 2015, 02:02 AM
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#18
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I dont think it being transparent plastic or solid white really matter. If you are working with solid white plastic, just paint it red or green or pink then do a gradient paint for white.
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Jul 31 2015, 11:00 AM
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#19
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Newbie
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for white unicorn, would it be cheaper to just paint a regular zeta and buy decals?
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Aug 1 2015, 01:36 AM
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#20
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Newbie
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RG vent problem, imo, is just out of proportion. It is never really a problem at 1/144. The reason it looks big is because it is shot very close (that imo, most of the time, will never viewed that close)
This is the same with the stickers used in RG, in photo shoot, the stickers looks really ugly but once viewed normally (like in your hands), it looks good enough. As for the PG Astray and Strike, the inner frame was actually designed for Strike and was retrofitted (recycled) for Astray, that is why overall proportion of the PG astray was more bulky. @theEvilMan that is not even the MG, that is the 1/100 model before the MG at which, goes to show how badly planned the PG astray is. This post has been edited by chyll2: Aug 1 2015, 01:41 AM |
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