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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V36, celebrating 35th anniversary!
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cacin
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Mar 25 2015, 01:35 PM
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QUOTE(advocado @ Mar 25 2015, 10:15 AM) it's unlikely they will release same robots in same scale but different grades. what i see is design complex robots will be RE to skimp on inner parts & save costs, while standard robots will continue to be MG for 1/100. They did have a NG 1/100 Exia, NG 1/100 00 Raiser, NG 1/100 Red Frame Astray, NG 1/100 Destiny, NG 1/100 Freedom, NG 1/100 infinite justice, NG 1/100 strike freedom and a few more, but I think you get the idea
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cacin
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Apr 1 2015, 09:35 AM
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that zaku mariner is amazing. It is even more amazing that it is on a 1/144 scale kit.
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cacin
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Apr 3 2015, 09:07 AM
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QUOTE(vkcy @ Apr 1 2015, 10:36 PM) Looks nice  But, where is Kamiki Burning? Super Fumina?
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cacin
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Apr 6 2015, 04:22 PM
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QUOTE(GravityFi3ld @ Apr 6 2015, 04:06 PM) Should use paint-brush to paint, no spray here and there..hehehe anyway - in everything we do, practice makes perfect  how do you use paint brush to paint large pieces? wouldn't it leave brush strokes?
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cacin
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Apr 9 2015, 07:34 PM
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QUOTE(EllieLHunter @ Apr 9 2015, 06:58 AM) I feel so too but the RE100 looks so bland.... Also what are you guys' opinion on those SD/BB models. They look so cute! Are they worth getting? Sometimes I build BB/SD too. Because they are easier to build and easier to colour or just custom colour so that it is easy for you  Gunpla is freedom  SD Knight Unicorn Gundam.  SD Gold Frame and SD Banshee  SD Phenex
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cacin
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Apr 13 2015, 09:26 AM
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QUOTE(SoulRex @ Apr 13 2015, 12:32 AM) RG 1/144 RX-78-2 Gundam "The Art of Gundam Color Clear ver." Any lobang to get this? Unfortunately, it was already sold out. http://www.gwinghobby.com/gundam/rg-rx-78-...ct-1265696.html
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cacin
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Apr 16 2015, 07:52 AM
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QUOTE(advocado @ Apr 16 2015, 01:59 AM) I tried on Lacquer Gloss Coat, seems it will dry up immediately, have to scratch it off but usually leaves a mess. Then on painted surface, dries up immediately however easier to scratch off. On a spoon, still dries up pretty quick but can still use eraser to remove it. So you're saying Gundam Marker Oil are more for no-paint build? So for painted build other than enamel wash any good marker that can easily wipe clean? Last time i used Water Based Gundam Marker on Acrylic painted surface, they seems to be pretty wet & can easily use tissue paper to wipe clean, i switch to oil based because water base don't have fine tips. you can probably try the real touch marker. As far as I know they are water based. They have 2 tip sizes, so should be able to use the finer one for panel lining.
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cacin
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Apr 16 2015, 09:54 AM
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QUOTE(advocado @ Apr 16 2015, 08:54 AM) do you really need to gloss coat b4 the panel lines? previously i did use the water base on acrylic paint without coat but i have painted this kit for long time now plan to panel line it. i read few options like Artist Oil, Artist Ink where you wash them but also heard washing without top coat will cause the excess get absorbed but i'm not sure it happens on all types of wash or enamel? i'm looking for an option where you can easily wipe off excess on acrylic painted kits without top coats. since it's white i wanna play safe. Most of the SD kits that I panel line before were painted with Mr Hobby Paints. Lacquer based. I did not spray a gloss coat before panel lining using the real touch marker. I am not sure how the touch marker would react to acrylic paints. Maybe just try on a non-obvious location first?
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cacin
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Apr 17 2015, 02:49 PM
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looks nice  Nu Ver KA?
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cacin
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Apr 20 2015, 05:03 PM
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QUOTE(monked @ Apr 20 2015, 04:40 PM) wondering which range do you guys prefers? I build 2 MG model but it takes up a lot space, just wondering is RG nice? I choose MG because of the details. Seems that a lot people are going for HG model too? Personally, I don't care about the grade. As long as got what I want, then I'll go for it.  RG is nice with the details and all on such a 'small' scale. What was your 2 MG? Since this hobby is really depends on how much effort you want to put in, some HGs can be done really nice too  Look at the zaku mariner few pages back.  All in all, it depends on what you want and decision
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cacin
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Apr 20 2015, 05:08 PM
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QUOTE(xein @ Apr 20 2015, 02:06 PM) Right. Until those molds wears out or we see new design. I would like to think, you need sufficient demand to actually get a reissue. How bandai get's their customer demand data? I have no idea
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cacin
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Apr 20 2015, 05:38 PM
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owh. heard good things about the Sazabi Ver KA  Have fun building it
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cacin
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Apr 21 2015, 07:52 PM
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QUOTE(dweeb203 @ Apr 21 2015, 07:44 PM) guys, anybody know about RG exia? how's the articulation? any major flaws? maybe i'm gonna get that for my first gunpla after a year and a half. I did build one before. Articulation should be ok. The only 'flaw' I have was I broke the beam dagger connector. So, be careful when you snap it in.  This post has been edited by cacin: Apr 21 2015, 07:53 PM
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cacin
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Apr 23 2015, 10:10 AM
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QUOTE(carpathia @ Apr 22 2015, 08:52 AM) [/spoiler] That is a "flaw" or was it your mistake that you broke it ? Ha ha ha. I don't know  But, once 1 side was broken, I was more carefull on the 2nd one. So far, the kit that think has no accident yet during complete assembly is the MK II. 
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cacin
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Apr 27 2015, 12:04 PM
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QUOTE(Terbulance @ Apr 27 2015, 11:50 AM) What do you guys do if you lost a part? I lost my RX-93 Nu Gundam Ver.Ka right hand armor. Didn't even know when I lost it until I look at the hand while applying decals. Searched the internet but can't seem to find anyone selling parts  you can improvise. Display it in a maintenance mode. Below is example on a MG Jesta.
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cacin
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Apr 27 2015, 12:13 PM
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QUOTE(Commandus @ Apr 26 2015, 09:34 AM) Any locals selling Sidonia kits? This is what I found at gwing. http://www.gwinghobby.com/plastic-kits/kot...ct-1150952.html
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cacin
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Apr 30 2015, 06:04 PM
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QUOTE(limfreelance @ Apr 30 2015, 01:06 PM) need a spray can of Pearl finish for the transarm Means you use it like coat the whole kit?
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cacin
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May 6 2015, 05:55 PM
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QUOTE(advocado @ May 6 2015, 12:50 PM) But i find hand painted acrylic paints doesn't stick well even after top coated. The pilot's hands keep getting paint scratched off by the hatch. I mix Mr.Hobby Acrylic with Mr.Hobby leveling thinner though. Bro, if I am not mistaken, the Mr Hobby leveling thinner is for lacquer based paint. They have a thinner for water based paint. aqueos thinner or something. however, the water based thinner wouldn't have a retarder added to the mix. Not sure if you can add mr hobby paint retarder into it or not so that the paint will take longer time to dry/set so that you will lessen the chance to see brush strokes.
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cacin
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May 13 2015, 05:20 PM
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QUOTE(advocado @ May 13 2015, 11:28 AM) Added LED, mostly unpainted, Future Floor finish using brush. Future Floor hides most sand marks but for some reason some marks are noticeable even though the surface is smoothly sanded. Also any correction & recoat can see slight marks beneath the coat. But outcome better than normal Top coats. looks nice. You use the bandai like LED into the kit? Or custom wiring one?
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cacin
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May 17 2015, 07:00 PM
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