hehe if you look close enough no matter how hard you pressed it after softer the water decals still shown when there lighting for it to reflect light.

glossy surface will not as apparent but when in metallic matt surface you will see, still only if you look close enough... (I'm kinda perfectionist kind of guy)

why white finger?

they hike up the price???  will do some research as always, so far seeing it at RM850-870 at various site but all sold out)
tot i see some ppl say they loot from the event
and i see some very old release still lingering around last year (HG GP03 Dendobrium, PG evangelion <-- very very damn old)

Except that white Zeta ww

this, i'm not that skillful to hide nubmarks so i probably wreck this kit
and to build the same MG over again for twice with banshee and phenex is quite a challenge to me in term of patience

sorry cant help you much on this...seems like those websites that i usually visit to buy kits are out of stock...
same here, watch a few videos and also using some of the tools suggested by forummer here, but still not as "clean"...
dont really like using sand paper, no matter how fine, as i can feel the "roughness" and the paint will be somehow different on the area that i use sand paper on...

Your original unicorn not PG?

btw, the MG Phenex decals, are they stickers or water slide?

Err don't get your meaning

postage cost is rm10 for 1st few kgs, but their system automatic calculate the weight, i'm pretty sure when my order costed rm15 to ship it's not even 2kgs yet. so i had to add/deduct the items so i can send max items with rm10.

Ok, i think i will share a little bit with snapfit... something i just learn recently when i started doing my snapfit kits.
One of the main challenge of snapfitted kit is the task of removing nip marks, without leaving any visible leftover mark. This is especially challenging when doing colored parts; especially blue n red, n other darker colors. One can sand under the nip mark is flat, but is during the cutting process, any damage on the plastic will leave a white spot on the plastic which is almost impossible to remove 100%. So be very careful!

Part on the runner.


Cut it from the runner with a side cutter. Remember to leave some extra nip. This is because no matter how sharp your side cutter is, the cutting action somehow will have some force pressing onto the plastic. This will, especially parts with darker color like red n blue n grey, The force might damage the plastic n leave white spot.


Then, use a sharp knife to slowly "slice" the nip, bit by bit. With this, no pressure will be put onto the plastic. When the nip mark is short enough, mebbe 0.5mm, we can start doing sanding.


My personal habit is start with a file. This is sometimes dangerous because file can be very erosive n it sands down plastic very fast. As a result, if not careful, u might just over sand the whole thing n leave some very deep scratch mark onto the plastic. Here, i file it down until it's almost near the part. u can still see the shape of the nip. notice the white or light color around the nip? this is plastic damage n turn white. but no worry, it's only skin deep n can be easily removed by sand paper.


Sand paper sanding. i start with 800, end with 1,200 grit. This is because i will be finishing with flat coat. IF u wanna do gloss coat, at least end with 2,000 grit n above. For curvy surface, i strongly recommend to use those 3M sanding sponge, the one state "microfine".

Now we can still see some scratches.

Next i use Tamiya compound Coarse (Pic below) to compound it. Actually i do not need to do this because my final finishing is flat. This is just to show an example for those who wants to do gloss or semi gloss.

Besides compound, if u think it's expensive (around RM15 one tube), u can also use nail polisher. Use the finest one, those used for last step polishing or they call it "buff" type.

Other than that, u can even use those CD recovery fluid. The liquid u use, when your DVD has fine scratches, to wipe on the CD/DVD. IT works.


******************************************************************************************************************************

Compared to the pic above, u can see the glossiness of original Bandai plastic. After compound, it's much glossier, something like those HD version.

that mainly the compound, but depends on color, darker the color, harder to restore the color from white, especially black.

u mean to say cut the parts from runner with some nubs on, instead of triming with the knife, use a lower grade-highest grade sanding paper to sand from that point onwards?  If that's the best way then i might do it but it gonna take a lot of time doing sanding for sure

Any link to buy from Japan straight or seller to be recommended?

arr too bad, found a couple of them in Mandarake but the handling fees hold me back :/

Hi guys, hav anyone here shipping by SAL economy without tracking number shipping frm japan to Malaysia? experienced any lost parcel? I don't mind to wait long as long it arrives safely here. Any advice deeply appreciate. My apologies if the question been repeated again.

Never have ver ka, but the old MG Nu funnels never gave me any troubles, the only thing it does is dragging the waist toward one side due to the weight.

3.0 joints in 2.0 frame.