QUOTE(SetsunaFSeiei Exia00 @ Jun 28 2015, 09:00 PM)
But cathedral is the one of the unique model in bf series that's not originate from other series.Still don't like the big thigh though...
Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V36, celebrating 35th anniversary!
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Jun 28 2015, 09:14 PM
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#121
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
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Jun 29 2015, 10:48 AM
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#122
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(carpathia @ Jun 29 2015, 10:20 AM) i really hate this part. like, seriously. (RG ZETA) You try buy some abs sheets with the same thickness and cut your own to replace the missing piece or plastic card that's durable to replace it.the damn U part keeps coming loose and now i've lost it. sigh.... Always bear in mind that the toughness of paint type that you use for detailing and panel lining, lacquer is the strongest, enamel second and acrylic is the weakest. So you can always try enamel base with extra thinner such as zippo to make watery for ease of panel lining. Marker for panel lining is convenient but always face challenges for small kits like rg. Then if use top coat always bear in mind when spraying have to be outdoor with dry weather else better don't do it. Smaller kits with high detail is risky when using spray cans, follow the 30cm distance with 2 to 3 coats strictly. Be patient and you should get a pretty compelling finish. Yes mist spray is important as the only advantage from air brush to spray can is the nozzle. |
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Jun 29 2015, 12:52 PM
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#123
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
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Jun 30 2015, 10:12 AM
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#124
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
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Jun 30 2015, 12:27 PM
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#125
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 30 2015, 11:39 AM) Yeah, as long as you ensure the ori parts surface has no major defect you're good to go, also you only want flat surface so the requirement for the surface is not so critical.again spray can pre cautious has to be taken too, spray outdoor, remain 30cm distance light spray with many coats and do your spray work under hot sunny day, if its rainy or after rains stop your work. you dont have to worry bout too much for surface imperfections after spray, can also sand it with appropriate grade to get the surface you want and redo the spraying. hehe there are always dust and small bulu ended up on your kits so hatta do this anyway... the major use for priming is to observe and improve the painted surface, also improves the finish paint holding strength. you do know that matt top coat is not for your transparent parts right? |
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Jun 30 2015, 12:30 PM
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#126
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 30 2015, 12:16 PM) a link for your jaw dropping pg fa unicorn dark metallic style, well at least its jaw dropping for me though...http://bbs.78dm.net/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=387586 This post has been edited by heally82: Jun 30 2015, 12:30 PM |
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Jun 30 2015, 12:34 PM
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#127
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jun 30 2015, 12:29 PM) yea, always spray with NTD mode off, did spray 1 mist coat on the psycho frame, since the ori parts is slightly pinkish and some builder suggest to lightly coat it to get more distinctive red can try transparent red to top coat it, always try with some plastic 1st though, i always try on plastic spoon before i start. you can also test out the feel of spray and distance to take to get the finish you want... |
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Jun 30 2015, 12:55 PM
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#128
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(advocado @ Jun 30 2015, 12:44 PM) any cheap way to prime? Mr.Hobby cans too expensive, bottle ones ain't cheap either. cheapest would be air brushing in the long run, that way you can try a variety of other brands of prime paints.i'm using Mr.DIY Clear for priming since i just want it to make the paint stick, but they aren't smooth like Mr.Hobby 1000 and need to be careful not to overspray since it's a top coat. Ace hardware sells some bigger cans of primer but still rm50 per can. Mr.Hobby cans are really small for the price they asking. can recommend much bout spray cans cheap options because it doesnt support most shipping and i have my own air brush kit. noticed this since day one so i bought air brush set. for example i bought: airbrush kit set for rm120 includes shipping and air filter with mini compressor and most paints only cost bout rm5 for 15ml with thinner for rm7.5 that can thin to ratio 1:4 which is 60ml also you can control the outflow so now worries of wasting paint. i have my sets of merely 3 or 4 spray cans cost. still you can always sand your way out using 1500 or 2000 sand paper if you want to... |
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Jun 30 2015, 01:46 PM
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#129
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(advocado @ Jun 30 2015, 01:27 PM) problem is i notice Clear & Prime paints tend to dry off once you open up faster than normal paints. No matter how tight you close the cap. well from my end every time dries up i add thinner that's all, i pre-thin my paints and put in pharmaceutical eye drop bottles and it works like a charm till now some been months haven't use still in liquid form. |
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Jul 1 2015, 12:46 PM
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#130
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
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Jul 1 2015, 05:43 PM
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#131
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(General_Nic @ Jul 1 2015, 05:14 PM) get primer spraycans from hardware stores, or your favourite shop, some Mr. DIY shops have already said both for under rm300 ma thought its already clear... but from where or what brand dun wan clearly said la because dun wan promote too much on bootlegs. unless our brada really want it economically which i totally get it.I mean those cheap spraycan brands, not those imported ones in ACE both Sazabi and Sinanju < RM300 or Sazabi/Sinanju < RM300 please make it clear NOTE: the original base do not have the blue lines, those are painted by the reviewer |
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Jul 1 2015, 05:44 PM
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#132
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
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Jul 2 2015, 08:48 AM
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#133
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jul 2 2015, 06:41 AM) I do agree that the water decals is almost an impossible works, juat curious since I cant find any sample of work from Google that uses it For the gold part better stick to paint job no matter marker or spray, tried various decals and stickers even metal stickers. Serious regretting using those, total waste of time if tried google reverse wash technique see whether it's too fussy for you else would be a cool skill to have. |
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Jul 2 2015, 10:00 AM
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#134
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jul 2 2015, 08:50 AM) the theory behind reverse wash is based on paint type toughness, lacquer base paint is much more stronger that can resist enamel base thinner.so when you painted gold lacquer base under coat and after paint dried put another top coat of black enamel base paint, then use enamel thinner or zippo oil to remove the portion that you wanted as gold which in your case most of the protrusion area. there are lots of reverse wash videos using sinanju, you can check that out. works like a charm for me, i have even extended to buy titanium gold and leaf gold tamiya enamel paints. |
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Jul 2 2015, 11:38 AM
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#135
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
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Jul 2 2015, 12:12 PM
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#136
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(kimirockz @ Jul 2 2015, 11:52 AM) If the marker paint already dry on the part, are we still able to remove it with thinner? it is best advised to use 2000 or 2500 grade paper to gradually sand them off, remove it with thinner also can but handle it with care as some lacquer thinner tends to be stronger depends on brand. these strong lacquer thinner will melt your piece. I might redo some parts. Eyesore looking at it. One really bad tht i encountered, i broke the side leg thruster piece joint. Dayum i use xunin lacquer thinner to clean my pieces that wanted to redo painting, i just dip it and brushes it and dry it using normal cloth. all these was done with 1 to 2 minutes, heard lots of people put it in a container with thinner ended up parts melted or deform. |
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Jul 2 2015, 12:19 PM
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#137
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jul 2 2015, 12:15 PM) for sinanju case, if i use the market for the gold trims, and use 2000 sand paper to sand those errors and extra paint, will it work, since i believe that black surface is much easier to work on as u guys suggested can, but it require lots of work and patience to get it right. for reverse wash pretty much fool proof just require you to buy gold color spray can. black enamel you can hand-paint it.below video might give you some ideas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHUYvZXcf_0 |
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Jul 2 2015, 12:29 PM
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#138
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jul 2 2015, 12:15 PM) for sinanju case, if i use the market for the gold trims, and use 2000 sand paper to sand those errors and extra paint, will it work, since i believe that black surface is much easier to work on as u guys suggested by the way test paint top using 2 layer of pledge floor care, of course this is a very smooth surface spoon la:another pic of chrome finish parts just with intention to drag you in air brush are hahaha |
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Jul 2 2015, 12:47 PM
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#139
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3 posts Joined: Jun 2011 |
QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jul 2 2015, 12:44 PM) for the gold trim, sanding or scraping off the excess will give a clean output or still have to work with some thinner? i ordered online though jshobby based in jb, lots of stock you can choose from...for the local shop, what about Mr hobby, any local shop that stock up like times machine?? |
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Jul 3 2015, 10:47 AM
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#140
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QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Jul 3 2015, 08:50 AM) mind to share how reverse wash work not sure what base is the gundam marker but as far as i know its oil based, so theoretically you can use gold markers to paint it as undercoat and use acrylic based black paint to hand brush as top coat, finally use acrylic thinner to remove.so i put on the gundam marker (acrylic base??) and wash the excess with enamel thinner (which can easily eat up acrylic?) again strongly advise you to watch a few youtube videos on reverse wash to get an idea how it works... usually most videos use air brush but you can refer it too... |
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