Those batteries are usually factory / distributor direct & they are usually meant for laptop battery cell rebuilds. Yes they can also be used for other purposes, including vaping. The info of the battery is usually available on their datasheet. Since we don't have datasheet, the closest alternative you can think of is to Google the model number. Open a few results can make sure the info is identical. Eg. ''Samsung INR18650-25R spec'' Idk why many Malaysian vape stores and online store fail to provide full info.

Anyways, you can use this link too. http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp

You need to know the name and model number of the battery first.
Then, click battery preset & select your battery.
Don't touch anything else.
The amp limit, capacity, nominal voltage & c-rating is there

--------

On another note, that link (under 'coil wrapping' tab) allows you to build a coil without an ohm meter.
I've tried it, as long as you know how it works & what every figure means, you can build a coil within .2ohm of your target.
But for safety, always use a resistance meter to check.

You must use 'coil wrapping' together with 'battery drain'. It's easier if you both open each in a separate tab on your browser
You need to get your battery wattage based on your desired resistance at different voltages.
Then input the wattage in 'heat flux' under coil wrapping tab. For example, my batt as mentioned above @ 0.5ohm. build will give you about 35W at fully charge 4.2v, it goes down to 20+W at 3.5v...

Hence, now go to coil wrapping. After selecting your wire, gauge, your coil setup, resistance and other figures...
Put that watt in 'heat flux' and check the mW/mm² figure between min & max wattage is between 220 - 310 for (generally) thick clouds (for mech mod). If you cannot achieve that, you need to adjust the resistance of your build etc. For every change in resistance, go back to the battery tab and get the new range of wattage. Redo the heat flux section.

For VV/VW mod, you dont really need to worry about this as you can adjust the volt/wattage to your liking on your mod, but if you are recoiling, it's a good idea to know how hot it gets at a specific watt/volt setting.

Under batt drain, you can also check how much 'safety headroom' you have at a specific ohm & voltage. >55% headroom is recommended. Really good shit.

Again, this is for the advanced & precise fellas, dont mess around if you are sloppy or dont know what you are doing, things can go boom easily.

These link should be included at the 1st post for DIY fellas:
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp
http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp

One of my prev single coil build


This post has been edited by andrew9292: Mar 27 2015, 09:21 PM

Sony US26650VT / Panasonic_CGR26650A ; a 50A max drain battery
Vappower 26650 / Vamp 26650 ; a 40A max drain batt

There are no authentic/verified 40A 18650 in the market.
The highest would be Efest IMR 18650 @35A.
There is an IMREN 18650 & maybe a few others claiming 40A, but it's disputed & i think, no tests to verify suitability for vaping.

You can see all the battery listed above at this link. Click battery preset & select the battery
http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp?b=Efe...0&mah=2500&c=14

Even on a 0.5ohm coil, with the Efest IMR 18650 35A as example, you need to vape at 17.5V or 612.5W to pull 35Amps completely, which is impossible.
Use the calc to see how your batt peforms.
People get higher discharge battery for safety reasons. It's safer to pull 8A over a 35A batt, than 8A over 10A batt
There is also a difference between maximum discharge & continuous discharge rate, but often the majority wont be near either limits.

Edit: correction

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Mar 29 2015, 09:00 PM

LG what model? Charger what model? I know TrustFire/Xtar is a popular charger among beginners. The price is acceptable but you get what you pay for...
http://lygte-info.dk/review/Review%20Charg...R-001%20UK.html
http://lygte-info.dk/review/Review%20Charg...R-006%20UK.html (if lazy just read conclusion)

Other chargers, CTRL+F and search your model:
http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/indexBatteri...rgers%20UK.html

Not all chargers are made equal... I've used trustfire & it took more than 12hrs to charge my batt to an acceptable level (2 slot occupied). I only sleep about 6hrs.lol. Now using a Nitecore i4 and it's only ard 5 hours max... Battery also same, there can be better alternative at same price depend on model

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Mar 29 2015, 09:32 PM

I used to have that problem also...

1) (Wicking/power) Too much juice too little power, juice is being sucked up by air pressure. Little/ok vapor, alot juice.
2) (Wicking/power) Too much juice too much power, juice is being flashed boiled & 'explodes'. Air pressure sucks it up with the vapor. Alot of vapor, alot of juice.
3) (Coil position/air pressure) Coil too high, the air is coming in & up like a jet-stream? If single coil, try to move the coil nearer to the bottom airhole, but dont touch or block it, at least 1mm clearance, no more than about 2mm. Beware of shorts!

It's okay to have some condensed juice in the drip tip & some rare spits into mouth I guess. Bt if it's too much then gotta work smth out...
Just sharing experience Hope helps somewhat Drippers are much forgiving on the wicking & power/juice balancing part but not convenient

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Apr 17 2015, 10:56 PM