pergi dia punya shop baru dia boleh senang bagi advise.

sound comes from which side?

do hard acceleration got the sound comes out also a not?

last time my rear bearing ada bunyi i sempat travel balik kg melaka.

urs flx kan? flx bearing diff from blm/fl. suppose that price range.

I got the same problem, I go back SC Every single time during service, I ask them check. Every single time without fail they will tell me they can't find anything. Then I suspect is driveshaft or bearing sound, they checked already. But they still say nth that they can see got problem. BUT STILL the sound is always there, feel like the steering is tearing apart "longgar" sound. And I give up, coz I poorfag too no money to keep on checking outside. T.T

check engine mountings

Lower arm/antirollbar drop link bushing.

kena slaughter by jason lettew. 

As long absorber is detached, it's recommended to redo alignment despite got do marking. New bushing will always differ it's alignment from where it was before the repair.

Sounds ghastly, if I had to I'd choose the C plate, at least I can remove it and return the car to normal when I get home.
Tweaking it in a press is a one way trip.
If rear suspension is important then a better choice is buying a car with a truly independent suspension.

humming sound is bearing problem la.
saga= lotus ride & handling ma.

The C-Shape steel plate is washer that use to buffer the camber spacing. Forget about the hydraulic jack method for our TOFUbeam(so called torsion beam), the bent will come back very quickly even if you drive sensually. That damn TOFUbeam is only about 1.2mm thickness L channel beam, totally useless for people who stay in our critical road condition. Usually workshop will load your car onto the machine, after alignment reading, they take note on the /--\ camber reading. During the adjustment, they will just C shape washer to buffer the top mounting of your spindle. What happened is, after they put in the washer, and assume the angle are correct now, the wheels looks |--| But the trouble is, if 1 side of your camber is -2.3 another side is -1.4 After put a 1mm thickness washer, then it become -1.3 another side -0.4. By right -0.4 is within tolerance, but the other side how? So they'll now have to detached the whole rear hub again, slot in another washer to the -1.3 side. Now here comes the problem, when you have 1 washer, it's always very accurante, but when you have more than 1 washer, the uneven surface/cutting edge of the washer will yield extra thickness. So now the -1.3 side probably turned to +0.9, toe 1.2 Like this your car will drive like a crab, go side ways

I forgot to press on your profile to see where you stay, and I'm too lazy to check now. If you're in Klang Valley, pls arrange time to pay nestum a visit. Do remember to tell him you wanted to do rear camber. Neither do I pay a cheap price, for my Shawie, I've spent a total amount of RM180 for rear camber adjustment alone for MULTIPLE visit. The 1st time adjustment was successful, but within 1/2 year, it went off again. I'll have to redo due to the washer previously installed already settled down and fitted in nicely, hence he camber is out again. Finally, the recent 2 visits, the alingment machine shows no sign of camber off.

Need advise by nestum or anybody know about "klekuk..kleguk" issue on front tyre.
Usually when goin up speedbump or on uneven road.

Not sure...like from both sides.
During hard acc, no such sounds. Goin slow over the speedbump usually can detect the sound.
Mau lagi obvious, naik speedbump yg haluusss tu. Naik senget...lagi dengar dat sound 

I got the same problem, I go back SC Every single time during service, I ask them check. Every single time without fail they will tell me they can't find anything. Then I suspect is driveshaft or bearing sound, they checked already. But they still say nth that they can see got problem. BUT STILL the sound is always there, feel like the steering is tearing apart "longgar" sound. And I give up, coz I poorfag too no money to keep on checking outside. T.T

If you have 1 washer | like this. From left to right is exactly 1mm thickness. You get 1mm spacing if you slot this piece of | washer anywhere. But, if you have || 2 pieces of washer stack together. What happened in between the || ? There will be edges that cut hand, bits and lumps, worm holes, sinking paths or uneven surface. 1mm washer + 1mm washer is not neccessarily 2mm. Sometimes can be 3mm due to whatever debris stuck between the 2 washers.

My experience is, after slot in multiple pieces of washers at the rear(more than 3 pieces at 1 side), the camber reading on the repair day was already close to -0.05. Very acceptable considering our stock setup is already -0.50 on each side. The trouble is, after driving sometime, the "something" in between the washer start to compress due to vehicle weight, road condition, lateral forces when cornering, had pressed the washers together. The gap between washers has been tighten. Hence, when I went back to shop and recalibrate my alignment, the reading shows my camber are off again. So I'll have to do the rear camber again, until the washers are fully settled then the rear camber will last a very long time.

Hope this explains it well.

I knew its either esoba link or lower arm usually will have that symptoms lar. Prepare extra 200-300 incase lower arm also koyak. The last time I do wrong lar, go change lower arm still still got sound. Later baru change the cheap esoba link feels like kena conned lidat

Yes the washer is just ordinary washer prx. If u r in KL, I rekomen u go let nestum do. He got all sizes of washer now ever since he does all my cars. Was fucuking me how I drive until all car backside terkangkang Initially he not enough size of washer, do until dulan. Sekejap too much cam in, sekejap too much cam out. In the end he order full set different sizes of C-shape washer liao, different thickness! And now ayam a happy camper liao

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Just change this part that cost me RM500 incl. labour and gearbox oil.   

stupid question, but got water or not still in the tank?
see the fuse box cover everything is listed there, which fuse for which item. 

Ini boley tahan Berapa damage in total? I got 1 full stretched tepi, side seal, rear fender, pintu depan penumpang, pintu belakang driber, fender depan penumpang, monet belakang. Hopefully below 500 can setel

Hi Bro...

Simple solution...
Juz buy a 1->3 12V extension socket set...
There are those (mayb 1->2 config) that even come ready with 2 USB sockets...
They are PnP nia...  

Many variants in market...
Got those with individual switches for each extension socket...& with LED lights sumore!!

If you want an always on socket then an easy way is to route a wire from the battery via the inside of the mudguard and front door. Preferably add a fuse to the wire.
That's what I've done.