Thanks bro but still some issues to iron out and I'm quite out of ideas now. But I still need to thank a friend of mine Fred D who showed me the possibility of doing this mod.
Not mess up the sensor. Resetting the ECU won't help on the sensor because the sensors function is just to sense.
The thing I learn about flx AF ratio is that it is fairly dumb and follows a set mapping. Even with a fpr the AF ratio adjustment changes the entire AF ratio from start to end in the same pattern. After market management is REALLY needed if you want to set the AF ratio on each rpm increment. Flu can see the AF ratio pattern remains the same although I adjust with fpr, just that the value have differ entirely across the rev range.

There's more choices now other than Haltech..Mega Squirt, Adaptronic is also among the choices. I'm leaning towards MS now after some round table talk and discussion with tuners. MS has more freedom and has more extra input point so i in future you can use these extra inputs to run sensors, injectors..etc..I'm not saying Haltech is not good, it's pretty good as the tuning software was easy to understand. 1 thing cool about MS is that if you are on Android you can link up ur MS with your phone to view it's working. I'm not sure if Haltech have this but maybe they have too which I don't know. I've saw the phone interface for the MS is and its pretty easy to understand and customize-able.

MS if you want to order need to wait as the ECU needs to be built. I was lucky to see a Neo with Mivec installing the MS3e. 
Adaptronic, it don't come with wiring loom so need to wire and more work.

Regarding FTuned, i'mm going back to them tomorrow for installation and tuning.
Boss. plug and play or need to mod? and what pressure I need to run these little piglets? 

Don't bother with the front ARB. Strong enough liao even for BLM. Might as well use the money to change to silicone bushing + powderful ejestebel coilovers

Do not bring it to performance shop if you truly wanted to restore the car from accident.

1) Send it to reliable tayarshop, ask for drivetrain inspection. Take note on all the bushing/related department that needed to fix/replace. BLM subframe/lower arm are the same. The front ARB can be very effective for BLM because ARB is not supposed to exceed 10% of esoba strength or will send your car to the moon. If you are talking about the sway feeling, take it this way, the new word for SAMPAN is called AGILITY.

2) For the same tayar shop, if they got machine, by right you can test your battery there also. Whilst driving voltage drop is not the battery problem as far as I can tell. I'm more than worried that the workshop did not fix back your charge cable properly.

Get the above 2 solved, before you go for performance shop. It's not that I'm saying performance shop can't use, it's because their FORTE is making your car PERFORM, not restore a junkyard car that supposed to go for totolos.

1st, do your own assessment before send to tayarshop.

1) Draw a dot right at the middle of your hubcap. From the dot measure length to your daun pisang near front door. Do another measurement to the front bumper edge. Finally 1 more measurement to the top of wheelarch. The front/back measurement will tell u the castor is aligned properly. The top to center is the dampening area.

2) Repeat the same to the other side, u will get the idea of how much difference. Use the bigger value substract the smaller value, u will get the castor difference between left/right wheel. Usually difference by mm is acceptable, but if the differences is up to CM, houston we have a plobrem.

A good tayarshop, will use their measurement tool, tell u something similar to your own measurement. They can pin point which joints/arm/bush need to be replaced, rough estimation of part/labour & some extra costing MAY incurred along repairation. If the shop tell u tak tau berapa, meaning that either they have not done this kinda case before(no experience in straightening an exiden car) or they preparing parang to pancung u.

U may just tell the shop got limited budget. Usually the shop will try to fish u by asking how much u got. Do not tell the truth regardless. Tell them probably below 100. The car went through exiden, say unable to claim due to 3rd party insurance. Make a dredfully regretted face, tu la pasal, jimat duit insurans ciket, bile exiden bayar 5 ribu. A good shop will show sympathy and try to work around your budget to repair to the max. If really insufficient, they will die die make the car work, atleast for some time until u have your next RM100, or will tell u how much u should expect the spend for a full repair next time around. Like I said, the good shop will usually tell u how much u shd expect to spend.

Worst case scenario, the shop is an ass, u pay your alignment RM20-25. Walk away from the shop & never go back again. Remember, always ask kalau buat semua, berapa kena, then baru bagitaw bajet RM100 to see how they react.

Our well known tayar guy nestum is in KL. Unless u wanna drive all the way down here. Otherwise suggest u find a local trusted/reliable tayarshop.

Clearly, someone messed up your wiring.

The © in C1555 means ©hassis (P)=Powertrain/Engine, (T)=Transmission.
C1555 = EMPS ECU Malfunction
(Electric Motor Power Steering (EMPS) Electronic Control Unit (ECU))

http://www.obd-data.com/P1793.html

Check your speed sensor and your MAPS whether attached correctly. I got a hunch that your current situation is caused by the alternator low charging that causes the fault code, if the above code was from your car OBD reading.

You may directly deal with abam nestum, book a time with him. Usually can settle within same day. Even if he can't atleast he will assure you what is needed to be done when you're back to your kampung.

The fault code issue, normal workshop that has a decent equipment, and ofcourse won't be cheap they charge. Can try your local well known shop for the diagnostic/repair if needed. Plotong SC? Unless you know them well enough, and knowing which particular servicer that is qualified to do this kind of thing. Otherwise, usually they'll ask you leave the car there. After 1 week they tell you can't find the issue after reset ECU and tell you off. After certain driving distance, the CEL came back up, you send in again, they ask you for another week. This time, after 1 week they tell you still dunno what's the problem, and probably will ask HQ send qualified ENGINEER over to diagnose your car. By the time you get back your car(and hopefully the problem is solved) probably installment sudah bayar habish

Just a short review on the ftuned. I like the damping when you go slow you know its adjustable but not so bumpy I'm now on F12 clicks from hard and R15 clicks from hard. Rear still a bit bumpy but not until the exted of hopping at turn. Previously with my HWL when I'm on a turn if the road was wavy the rear would bounce as the damping was too hard I was on 4k spring on rear.
Now I'm having 5.5 at rear as paired by ftuned for race comp spec

What I can feel is when on turn the car is more planted and stable, damping was good as the bound and rebound was less rapid than HWL. Also the car roll center is corrected so the car handles in a more balance manner when you give steering input won't give you the nerve wreaking already want to lost control feeling. You can tell clearly the car still can take the corner with more speed. The car still has some body roll but in a controlled manner as ftuned said you need some extend of body roll so the car won't hop over the road if its not flat. You need the tire panted at all times to have maximum traction. Also he said that the rear is set to sit lower than front so that when you brake into corner the car won't lost its weight balance and upset the car's handling. Now my front is 2 finger gap while the rear is sitting at its lowest.

How much lowered do you do? you need to increase the ARB links length.

Wah, lowered until that much...can drive ka? I 1.5 fingers gap I also cannot tahan and increase to 2.

1 finger gap I can't imagine.
d
You need to increase the length of the end links and with such low clearance your ARB is already on load before it even flex.

Bai VIOS. No matter how low also can

I have got information from Ftuned regarding this issue. For BLM/FL/FLX that are lowered your stock end links will move upwards in relation to the suspension and this moves the front ARB up and close to the chassis. So knocking will occur due to the ARB curve side as the end links was short. Stock saga end links are 220mm (size 13mm nut). Now I'm using Neo end links at 255~260mm (size 15mm nut). Please take note that you need to specify you need Neo end links as some shop will give you Waja end links. The Neo end links I got was Genuine Mitsubishi end links. Spare parts shop will have those normal one but I saw the quality was not very convincing.


And from my thinking the short end links will also have pre-loaded the ARB when the car is lowered so you need to remove that load from the ARB. Adjustable end links are useful if you corner weight the car but for our saga we can only do it on the front. Also on stock end links you are limiting the sweeping arc on the ARB. With longer end links the effective sweeping arc of the ARB will increase.

Hope this info helps to fellow gaga owners who lowered the car especially those very low riders.

Kenot. BLM tail light larger, need to cut away 2cm of your bumper and it's irrevisable. Other than that, the tail light sockets are different as FL/FLX uses LED for the berak. Need some modifikasi